Sweet Samurai Japanese Spitz

Five Ways to Preventing Heatstroke in your Dog

2011-08-13T17:09:00.000-07:00

August 13, 2011

In extreme temperatures, all dogs are at risk - even dogs who you feel may be acclimated to hot weather. However, air temperature is only one consideration. Humidity, sun exposure (or lack of shade), amount of time in the heat, the level of exertion, and availability of water can all affect how well a dog tolerates heat. Be aware of signs of heat distress, such as excessive panting or drooling, reddened gums, listlessness, or rapid heartbeat. Fortunately, there are plenty of ways to help prevent your dog from getting so overheated that he suffers heat stress or heatstroke.

1) AVOID EXPOSING YOUR DOG UNDULY TO EXTRAORDINARY HEATH. If you must leave your dog outside, ensure he has ample methods for staying cool - plenty of shade, lots of fresh, cool water to drink, and perhaps the cooling breeze of a fan.

2) MODIFY YOUR DOG'S EXERCISE ROUTINE IN HOT WEATHER. Walk him after dark or before dawn. Incorporate swimming or water play into your dog's usual game of fetch. During severe heat, forego any sort of rigorous exercise for a few days.

3) GET HIM WET. Hose your dog down, put him in the tub, mist him with a spray bottle, or wipe his coat with a sopping wet towel. In a dry climate, the evaporation will help lower his body temperature. In a humid environment, you'll need to get some extra air flowing over him for a wet coat to help him cool down.

4) PROVIDE AMPLE WATER. Make sure your dog has lots of fresh, cool water - preferably from more than one source, as dogs always seem to drink more when they have more options.

5) USE AN EVAPORATIVE COOLING VEST, COAT, BANDANNA, OR MAT. There are plenty of these products on the market. Look for garments that are wetted and gradually release water through evaporation (example: HyperKewl Evaporative Cooling Dog Coat by TechNiche International). But in a pinch, even a plain cotton T-shirt or bandanna, wetted and worn by the dog, can help provide some evaporative cooling.

* Summary of article written by Nancy Kerns, for Whole Dog Journal Vol. 14 #8, August, 2011
(www.whole-dog-journal.com)

A Hot Oven or a Hot Car . . . Its the Same Thing

2011-08-06T17:08:00.000-07:00

August 6, 2011

The Morons at Consumer Reports

2011-08-03T17:06:00.000-07:00

August 3, 2011

In a recent article called "Tame Your Pet Costs", Consumer Reports magazine states, in summary, that basically all dog foods are the same, nutritionally speaking, as they all meet the minimum standards for nutrition required by the Association of American Feed Control Officials. The article then goes on to indicate that Walmart's Ol' Roy is the best buy, at just 34 cents per pound.

Ol' Roy receives the lowest rating given on DogFoodAdvisor.com, one star. So, lets see what you get for your money when you purchase Ol' Roy. For a mere 34 cents per pound, you get ground yellow corn, meat & bone meal, soybean meal, chicken by-product meal, wheat middlings, & animal fat. Sound appetising?

Let's breakdown these ingredients. It is important to understand that when reading dog food labels, the first 2-3 ingredients listed are the ingredients that make up the majority of the food.

The dominant ingredient in Ol'Roy is corn. Then we have meat & bone meal. What is that? Meat & bone meal is a dry “rendered product from mammal tissues, including bone, exclusive of blood, hair, hoof, horn, hide trimmings, manure, stomach and rumen contents.

Next we have soybean meal. This is what remains of soybeans after all the oil has been removed.

Now, we're to the chicken by-product meal. This is a dry rendered product of slaughterhouse waste. In other words, this is a mixture of all the stuff that hits the slaughterhouse floor after removing the prime cuts of meat for humans. This can contain almost anything...feet, beaks, internal organs, undeveloped eggs, maggots, feces, basically anything (that is) except real meat. In a nutshell, chicken by-products are those unsavory leftovers usually considered "unfit for human consumption".

Next, wheat middlings - this is nothing more than milling dust and floor sweepings.

Lastly, animal fat. Animal fat is a generic by-product. Since there’s no mention of a specific animal, this item could come from almost anywhere. Common sources are restaurant grease, slaughterhouse waste, diseased cattle, and even euthanized pets. What’s worse, this fat is preserved with BHA, a suspected cancer-causing agent (carcinogen).

So, Consumer Reports, please tell me, after looking at the facts, how you can possibly feel that all dog food is the same?

LIVING IN HARMONY (Dogs & Children) - Entry #4 - When Play Gets Carried Away

2011-07-30T17:04:00.000-07:00

July 30, 2011

Dogs and children are often great playmates, but children may become upset if they're the recipient of an accidental nip.

"Puppies and young dogs that get too rough while playing are normal," says Pam Reid, Ph.D, vice president of animal behavior at New York's ASPCA Animal Behavior Center. "They just don't yet realize that they're too rambunctious in their play with people. Once they learn that people are more fragile than other dogs, they temper their play."

Your child can help enforce limits by reacting with a sharp "No!" when the dog gets too jumpy or mouthy, and by turning his back until the dog settles. It's also helpful if your child understands the difference between a playful pup and an aggressive dog.

"A dog who's playing will be relaxed and loose in his movements: his tail will be relaxed & wagging, his face will look like he's having fun," Reid says.

An aggressive dog's demeanor will be rigid and tense. "He'll probably freeze before nipping. His tail might be wagging, but it will be firm and stiff. His growl will sound more serious."

Teach children that if they ever feel uncomfortable, they should slowly walk away from the dog, avoiding eye contact. "Avoid screaming, running, or flailing arms," Reid says.

* The above information written by Debbie Swanson & taken from DogFancy Magazine - May, 2011 issue.

West Nile Is Still On The Move

2011-07-23T17:02:00.000-07:00

July 23, 2011

While the threat of West Nile virus to dogs is small, the range of the illness in 2010 spread across the 48 contiguous United States and to British Columbia, Saskatchewan, and Ontario, Canada. Experts consider it to be a seasonal virus that flares in summer and continues into fall, roughly from May to October.

The virus, spread by mosquitoes, causes encephalitis - swelling of the brain. Symptoms in dogs include decreased appetite, difficulty walking and holding the head normally, circling, and tremors, according to the American Animal Hospital Association. However, dogs also may show no symptoms after infection, the Center for Disease Control and Prevention reports. There is no specific treatment, and there is no documented evidence of dog-to-human transmission of West Nile.

No vaccine exists against the virus. The prevention: avoidance. Keep dogs indoors in the early morning and the evening, when mosquitoes are most likely to be out, the AAHA says. Use only mosquito repellent approved for use on dogs - never DEET-based products, which can make dogs ill. Ask your veterinarian for recommendations.

* The above taken from DogFancy magazine - May, 2011 issue.

PUPPY CAM IS BACK!!!!

2011-07-22T07:00:00.000-07:00

July 22, 2011

You heard right! Puppy cam is BACK! Puppy cam will be live Monday - Friday from 8 a.m. CST to 6 p.m. CST. On Saturdays & Sundays, we'll be showing videos from the previous week, so you can catch up on what you may have missed. Since we have two litters at the same time (and only one webcam), we'll show Geisha's litter on even dates and Ju-Ju's litter on odd dates.

Enjoy!!!

Streaming Live by Ustream

ANOTHER BIRTH ANNOUNCEMENT

2011-07-20T06:55:00.000-07:00

July 20, 2011

Just 5 days after Geisha's litter of five was born, Ju-Ju has delivered FOUR beautiful puppies! The puppies (2 girls and 2 boys) were born Wednesday evening, July 20th. We are sure going to be busy for the next 8 weeks! I can't wait to hear the pitter patter of 9 little sets of puppy feet running around the house!

Taking the Bite Out of Teething

2011-07-16T17:00:00.000-07:00

July 16, 2011

Poor puppy! Just when those 28 puppy teeth come in, those 42 adult teeth start clambering to the surface. You can help ease the pain - naturally.

In addition to providing chew toys, putting ice chips in the water bowl, and massaging the gums, herbal remedies may also help. Chamomile can calm uncomfortable pups when the tea is given as a drink. Steep one teaspoon of dried herb in 8 ounces of water and let cool.

Likewise, the homeopathic remedy Chamomile can be used, with a low potency, given two or three times per day. Try freezing aloe vera juice into cubes or in a paper cup that can be peeled away. Rub the frozen juice on your puppy's gums to ease irritation and banish pain.

The teething stage lasts several months. Then, you'll need to be sure to hide the shoes from those brand new pearly whites.

* Information taken from DogFancy magazine - May, 2011 Issue

BIRTH ANNOUNCEMENT

2011-07-15T15:11:00.000-07:00

July 15, 2011

We are very proud to announce that Geisha has had her final litter. The puppies were born on Friday, July 15, 2011. She is the proud mama of 5 beautiful & healthy puppies (3 girls & 2 boys)! We will have the puppy cam up soon! In the mean time, enjoy the pictures below! For more pictures, please check out our Facebook page.

If you live in the 48 contiguous United States and are looking to add a new fluffy family member to your home, please feel free to contact us at SweetSamuraiKennels@gmail.com for an application.

LIVING IN HARMONY (Dogs & Children) - Entry #3 - The Right Way to Show Love

2011-07-09T16:58:00.000-07:00

July 9, 2011

Affectionate children might not think twice about giving their favorite canine a great big hug. But parents should use good judgment before allowing such an embrace. A toy breed could be injured by an overzealous hug, and a puppy or high-strung dog may act unpredictably or feel cornered by it. Some dogs interpret hugging as a sign of dominance.

"Socialization plays a big part as well. If the dog is raised with the child and is used to human hugs, then I see no problem," says Jordan Buccola-Bautista, a behaviorist with the Louisiana SPCA. "A parent should always show a child how to be gentle, not to hold the dog against their will, and if [the dog is] struggling to get out of the hug, definitely let go!" says Buccola-Bautista, adding that children should never approach a dog if they are a stranger to it.

Because not all dog cozy up to a hug, teach children to display their affection with more dog-approved methods, such as a back scratch, gentle pat, or playtime.

The dog in this picture is clearly not enjoying himself. His eyes are wide and he is stiffly leaning away from the child. Additionally, the dog is "tongue flicking", which is a sign of stress. The parents of this child should not be letting her hug this dog.

* Above information taken from DogFancy magazine - March, 2011 issue.

The ThunderShirt

2011-07-02T16:57:00.000-07:00

July 2, 2011

Independence Day is right around the corner. This is a pretty scary time for many of our four-legged friends. Fireworks can cause quite a bit of fright and anxiety. Accordingly, I thought this would be a good time to discuss a product called the Thundershirt.

According to a veterinarian I saw on NBC (sorry guys - can't remember the vet's name), constant pressure on one's nervous system provides a soothing & calming effect. This is why babies are comforted through swaddling. It seems this is a rule that also applies to our canine friends. Thus is the basis of the Thundershirt.

The product's website (www.thundershirt.com) claims: "Thundershirt’s gentle, constant pressure is a terrific solution for many types of dog anxiety, fearfulness, barking and more." Now, as a trainer, I am skeptical that the thundershirt alone can magically solve all of your dog's problems. However, I do recognize how the use of tools such as this one, are beneficial. And in connection with other training techniques, these tools can help to alleviate the symptoms that commonly accompany anxiety in dogs.

Have you used the Thundershirt for your dog? If so, I'd love to hear the results!

LIVING IN HARMONY (Dogs & Children) - Entry #2 - A List of Quick Tips

2011-06-18T16:54:00.000-07:00

June 18, 2011

Here are some quick tips for helping to keep the peace between your children & dogs:

Before getting a dog, seek advice from veterinarians, vet techs or other knowledgeable pet care professionals.
Make sure any dog acquired by a family with children was well-socialized, especially to children, as a young puppy and into adolescence.
Teach kids to stay out of the dog’s personal space when the dog is eating, sleeping, injured or has puppies.
Don’t startle or surprise any dog –let the dog know when you are approaching.
Avoid hugging, kissing or any activity that puts your face in close proximity to the dog’s face.
Supervise all interactions between dogs and children and be sure that both adult and child know the body signs that indicate fear or anxiety.
When signs of fear or anxiety are observed, stop interactions between child and dog.
Provide dogs with a child-free zone in which to retreat—such as a baby-gated room or a kennel or crate.
Don’t allow children to mistreat the family dog, teach them to interact appropriately.
Don’t approach strange dogs without the owners’ permission.
Don’t approach loose dogs or ones tied out on long lines.
Don’t reach through a fence to pet a dog.
Don’t reach into a car window to pet a dog.
Do train your pet to obey basic commands such as sit, lie down and come when called by having clear expectations and rewarding the good behaviors with something the dog enjoys
For dog households with children, teach the dog good things happen when children are close by.

* Above information taken from: http://positively.com/2011/05/17/why-dogs-bite-children-a-lesson-in-preventing-dog-bites-in-kids/

The Magnificent & Wonderous KONG!

2011-06-16T16:49:00.000-07:00

June 16, 2011

If you have not yet discovered the amazing Kong and its many uses, boy are you missing out! Not only does the strong & durable rubber satisfy the needs of avid chewers, but the treat-dispensing ability of this toy is invaluable!

Whether your dog needs a distraction, mental stimulation, or simply relief from boredom in order to deter destructive behavior, the Kong is a tool you can't afford to be without.

The problem we have been running into lately is trying to decide what to stuffing we should use for our dogs' Kongs. Frozen peanut butter has always been a favorite, but like people, dogs can get bored with the same old thing. Fortunately, after much internet research, I discovered some more tasty recipes that I'd like to share with you.

Banana Rama

Fresh Banana

2 Tbsp wheat germ

1 Tbsp plain yogurt

In a bowl, mash up banana. Then add wheat germ & Yogurt. Mash all ingredients together & use a spoon to stuff in Kong. Freeze for 4 hours. Makes 1 serving in a medium Kong (Double recipe for every larger Kong size)

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Philly Steak

Steak scraps

1 oz cream cheese

Place small scraps of the steak inside the Kong toy. Spread cream cheese in large hole to hold scraps.

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Fruit Salad

Peaches, Apples, Carrot Chunks

1/4 of a Banana

Place apples & carrots in Kong toy. Push banana in large hole to hold fruit in place. You can include other fruits & veggies such as orange slices, plums, nectarine chunks, celery sticks, broccoli, cauliflower, etc. (Be sure not to include any human foods that are unsafe for canine consumption.)

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Veggie Kong Omelet

1 egg

Shredded Cheese

Any vegetable safe for canine consumption

Scramble egg & fold in vegetables. Put in Kong toy. Sprinkle some cheese over the top of the Kong toy opening & microwave for about 20 seconds. Cool thoroughly before giving to dog.

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Frozen Jerky Pops

Peanut Butter

Bouillon

Jerky Strips

Water

Smear a small amount of peanut butter over small hole in Kong toy. Fill the toy with cool water & add a pinch of bouillon. Place jerky stick inside Kong toy and freeze. This also can be put in (once frozen) in a children's size swimming pool for a fun day of fishing for your pet.

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Crunch 'N Munch

Crumbled Rice Cakes

Dried Fruit

Cream Cheese

Plain Croutons

Combine all ingredients & place in Kong.

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Pumpkin Pieces

Plain Yogurt

Canned Pumpkin

Cooked Rice

Combine all ingredients in a small Ziploc baggie & mix thoroughly. Snip off the corner of the bag & squeeze mixture into Kong. Freeze.

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To add a bit of complication, try layering the treats in the Kong. For example, try a Kibble-Sicle: Put a glob of peanut butter into the Kong first. Then add some dry dog food. Pour in some chicken broth. Add some more peanut butter, followed by more kibble. End with another glob of peanut butter at the very top. Freeze until solid. To the left, you'll see an example of a well-stuffed, layered Kong

Bottom line: You can be as creative as you want to be. Just be sure to only feed your dog foods that you know are safe. If you have a question about whether a human food is safe, visit ASPCA.org or visit previous entries in this blog that discuss that topic.

Just remember to make it fun & tasty. The Kong will do the rest!

Do you have any Kong recipes you'd like to share? Let us know! We'd love to hear from you!

Help for Allergy Sufferers

2011-06-11T16:47:00.000-07:00

June 11, 2011

As one who has suffered with allergies all my life, I know how miserable they can make a person. If you have allergies like me, DogFancy magazine offers tips for us:

Always consult with an allergist first to understand the severity of the reaction and to learn methods to manage it. Then consider how to minimize the symptoms.

Bathing dogs with special shampoos, giving them oral agents, or using vacuum filters can help, but don't always work for every allergy sufferer, says American College of Allergy, Asthma, and Immunology. When vacuuming and grooming your dog aren't enough, ACAAI suggests taking these steps to further reduce the irritants in the household:

Avoid carpeting: Hardwood or polished floors are less likely to harbor allergens.
Banish fabrics: Avoid fabric or upholstered furniture; use blinds or shades instead of fabric curtains.
Launder properly: ACAAI states that the best way to remove dog dander from fabric is to wash at 140 degrees with one rinse; at any temperature with two rinses; or use a steam washing machine.
Cover pillows and mattresses: Studies show that using tightly woven fabric with openings less than 4 microns wide can reduce allergens.

For best results, incorporate as many of these changes as possible, particularly in the areas where allergy-sufferers sleep.

* Above information taken from DogFancy Magazine - March, 2011 issue.

Deaths of Dogs in Hot Cars Already Reported This Year

2011-06-10T16:45:00.000-07:00

June 10, 2011

We haven't hit summer yet, but already much of the nation has hit record high temperatures. Unfortunately, there have already been numerous reports of dog deaths due to being left in hot cars.

The Animal Protection Institute did a study on hot cars not too long ago. The study showed how even moderately warm temperatures outside can lead to deadly temperatures inside a car - even with the windows partially open. In fact, cracking the windows did very little to slow the rise of temperature in the vehicle. Below are their findings:

* Information taken from www.mydogiscool.com/x_car_study.php

Delicious Oatmeal Dog Treats

2011-06-04T20:28:00.000-07:00

June 4, 2011

A big THANK YOU to my good friend and grandpuppy owner, Terri Corsner for the following recipe! You can check out her website at http://www.amedeajapanesespitz.com.

Ingredients:
3 Cups Oatmeal, uncooked
1 1/2 Cups whole-wheat flour
4 – 6 oz cold water (depending if your dog likes soft, or crunchy treats)
2 Baby Food jars of meat with gravy (Beef/Chicken/Ham/Turkey) – 2.5 oz each
2 Baby Food jars of Vegetable, or Fruit (I use Carrots) – 4 oz each
1 Tablespoon parsley, chopped (All natural breath freshener)
2 Egg yolks
1 Teaspoon baking soda

Directions:
Mix all ingredients together. Spoon onto a greased cookie sheet into desired size. I use a melon baller for bite size reward treats. Bake 10 to 12 minutes at 400 degrees. Place on a cooling rack. Store in refrigerator.

LIVING IN HARMONY (Dogs & Children) - Entry #1

2011-06-04T16:35:00.000-07:00

June 4, 2011

Last month was Dog Bite Prevention Awareness Month. Every year in the U.S., nearly one million people are bitten bad enough by a dog to require a hospital visit. To many people, those bites may seem to be out-of-the-blue. However, those of us in the "know", know better.

Positively.com reports: Says Dianne Fabretti, a registered veterinary technician for the Sacramento County Animal Care and Regulation, “We read [bite reports] and it tends to be people don’t know body language of animals [and] they don’t exhibit proper behavior to the animals so the animal behaves as an animal.”

She emphasizes further, “People don’t educate their children as to how to handle and act around animals. I know that. I have one son and two stepsons and I was always amazed what kids do and how much more training kids need in terms of how to act around the animals.”

It’s all in the education according to Fabretti and the worst part, is that when children are not taught what to do and what to avoid around dogs, dogs get into situations where they need to defend themselves and the results are not only bad for the kids but can be much worse for the dog. Says Fabretti, “When animals do bite, people get emotional. The [dogs] end up here and most are euthanized.”

It is the ALWAYS the responsibility of the parent to teach their children appropriate dog interaction, and to monitor those children around the family dog. It is my hope that this blog series will help educate parents on this subject.

* The above italicized information taken from Why Dogs Bite Children-
http://positively.com/2011/05/17/why-dogs-bite-children-a-lesson-in-preventing-dog-bites-in-kids/

HAPPY EASTER!

2011-04-24T08:19:00.001-07:00

April 24, 2011

On this wonderful and joyous day, we at Sweet Samurai would like to wish you all a very Happy Easter and to remind you that common Easter items contain dangers for your pets. In particular, please keep Easter Lilies and chocolate out of the reach of your beloved four-legged family members. For a list of other springtime poisons, check out our previous blog entry here: http://sweetsamuraikennels.blogspot.com/2009/03/spring-time-poisons.html.

If you're looking for a sweet treat to give your pooch this Easter, why no go the natural route with these tasty options:
Apple slices
Strawberry tops
Peach slices
Red bell peppers
Green bell peppers
Romaine lettuce
Watermelon

But most importantly, don't forget the real reason why we celebrate this holiday - Jesus is Risen!!!

Helping Your Pet Adjust to New Situations (Entry #4 - Tips for Calming an Anxious Pet)

2011-04-10T16:29:00.000-07:00

April 10, 2011

Since unfamiliar situations or disruptions in routine can sometimes make your pet feel uneasy, try these simple tips to help soothe your pet's frazzled nerves.

Make an extra effort to retain as much of your pet's familiar schedule as possible.
Choose specific key phrases to say each time you perform a certain action, so that your pet begins to identify repeated cues and establish a new sense of routine. For example, each time you leave the house, calmly say something like, "Be good."
Stabilize your pet's routine by feeding meals at the same time each day and incorporating a set daily playtime.
Provide stimulating, interactive toys to give your pet a distraction.
Play soft music or leave a radio or TV on in the background.

Above all, its important to recognize that your pet needs time to adjust. Be patient and give him ample time to regain his bearings.

* Information provided by VPI Pet Insurance (VetPetHealth.com / 866-Vet-Pets)

Fire Safety

2011-04-03T16:28:00.000-07:00

April 3, 2011

According to the National Fire Protection Association, 500,000 household pets are killed in household fires each year. Following these safety steps (provided by Dog World magazine) might protect your dog from a fire.

Adhere pet decals on your home's front windows to alert first responders that you have a dog inside. Pet decals can be found at pet-supply stores, local fire departments, home-security companies, and online. (In fact, SunBear Squad provides a great decal: http://www.sunbearsquad.org/files/wallet_rescue_cards.pdf)
Give an extra set of keys to a neighbor.
Consider investing in a monitored alarm system with remote access control. This will automatically alert the fire department if smoke or carbon monoxide is detected in your home.
Maintain a clean yard and keep hedges trimmed to decrease the likelihood of a brush fire igniting near your home.
Have your heating system inspected for gas leaks each fall. Every year, carbon monoxide is responsible for more than 400 human deaths and 20,000 trips to the emergency room.

Helping Your Pet Adjust to New Situations (Entry #3 - Getting Along Like Cats & Dogs)

2011-03-27T16:26:00.000-07:00

March 27, 2011

Even for the friendliest of animals, introducing another pet into your home can cause stress. Questions of who ranks where in the pack can induce unwanted behaviors from both pets. But with a little patience and dedication on your part, even dogs and cats can become the best of pals. Just keep the following in mind when introducing another pet into your home:

If introducing dogs, make sure the first meeting takes place on neutral territory, rather than in the home or on the property. Then, bring both dogs into the home together.
Always supervise pets until you know how they will get along.
Keep pets - including those of the same species - on opposite sides of a closed door to allow them to sniff each other without coming into full contact. Once they are comfortable with each others' scents, use a baby gate to visually introduce them to one another.
Keep dogs leashed to maintain control during introductions to new people and pets.
For new cats, consider creating a "refuge room" to which they can safely and comfortably retreat.
Separate pets when leaving home. Provide each with necessities such as fresh water, food, bed, toys, litter box, etc.

* Information provided by VPI Pet Insurance
(www.vetpethealth.com / 866-vet-pets)

Puppy Proofing Your Home

2011-03-20T16:24:00.000-07:00

March 20, 2011

Today is the first day of spring. This means that puppy season is here. Shelters and rescues across the country are already inundated with an abundance of homeless baby puppies. With all of these puppies available, you may be thinking about bringing one (or a few) of these youngsters into your home. If so, be vigilant! A puppy's natural curiosity can turn disastrous if he gets into the wrong thing. Watch out for these top trouble spots (as reported by Dog Fancy magazine):

IN THE HOME:

Electrical cords
Garbage
People food (especially chocolate, raisins, grapes, and any type of gum)
Animal bones
Any chemicals, including household cleaners
Socks or other items made from fabric or string
Medication / vitamins

IN THE YARD:

Antifreeze
Azaleas
Rhododendron
Oleander
Calla Lilies
Hydrangea
Broken Fencing
Cocoa Mulch

Consider creating a "safe zone" inside your home or yard for times when your puppy must stay home alone. Use an exercise pen or baby gate to secure his special spot, and fill it with safe chew toys and other safe toys to keep him busy - and safe - while you're away.

Helping Your Pet Adjust to New Situations (Entry #2 - The Moving Blues)

2011-03-13T16:23:00.000-07:00

March 13, 2011

Moving to a new home can be a stressful time for pets. An unfamiliar place filled with box upon unpacked box can be overwhelming, but you can help your pet acclimate quickly and safely with a few simple steps.

Microchip
Be sure to microchip dogs and cats or update your microchip contact information in case your pet accidentally wanders off and gets lost.

Refuge
For dogs, consider boarding or daycare during your move. For cats, try confining them to a "refuge room" while packing and unpacking. Play soft music or other white noise to distract your cat from the commotion of moving.

Welcome
Unpack familiar pet items first such as beds, bowls, and toys to help your pet feel more at home.

Ready to Go
If possible, bring your pet into your new home with everything already unpacked and arranged. Having familiar furniture in place helps things feel less hectic and more settled.

Explore
If you have a dog, spend extra time walking around your new neighborhood together so that he can identify the new smells and begin learning where his new home is located.

Be Prepared
Find the 24-hour emergency veterinary hospital nearest your home and create an emergency plan.

*Information provided by VPI Pet Insurance
(VetPetHealth.com / 866-Vet-Pets)

Treat Recipe - "Meat Lover's Biscuits"

2011-03-06T16:20:00.000-08:00

March 6, 2011

Ingredients:
- 1 lb lean ground beef
- 1 1/2 cups rolled oats
- 2 eggs beaten
- 1 1/2 cups water
- 3 cups whole wheat flour

Preheat oven to 325 degrees. Mix together the beef and eggs in a bowl, using your hands, if necessary, to mix completely. In a separate bowl, mix the flour with the oats; then gradually mix in the beef-egg mixture, again using your hands, until mixed thoroughly. Add the water to form a sticky dough.

Knead the dough on a lightly floured surface for 3 minutes. Roll dough to 1/4-inch thickness, and cut into desired shapes with a cookie cutter. Use a greased cookie sheet, and bake for 80 minutes. Allow to cool in oven for several hours, and then store at room temperature for up to four weeks.

(Recipe yields 6 dozen)

* Recipe reprinted from Dr. Khalsa's Natural Dog (available at www.shopanimalnetwork.com)

Animal Shelter Dog "Breed" Requests

2011-02-02T09:37:00.000-08:00

February 2, 2011

I recently came across an amusing blog article that I just had to share, thanks to FOR THE LOVE OF DOG BLOG (http://fortheloveofdogblog.com/).

Many animal shelters give potential adopters the option of filling out an application for a dog. In these applications, they are able to request a certain breed they may be looking for. Shelters will keep the list and call if they have the requested breed of dog come in for adoption.

If you need a laugh today, here is a list of some of the wanted dog "breeds" collected from actual applications at some animal shelters:

Westminster Terrier
Rhode Island Ridgeback
Palmeranian
Copper Spaniel
Cocker Spaniard
Black Labrador (from a license app, requested dog's color was "yellow")
Shit Sue
Dorky Terrier
Lopso Apso
El Paso (attempt at Lhasa Apso)
Highland Heeler
Alaskan Malibu
Belgian Manawa
Belgium Malenoise
Basket Hound
Bagle
Welch Corgi
Wild Haired Terrier
Carrion Terrier
Wineamimer
Rockwelders
Rottenwiler
Great Pekingese (suppose to be "Pyrenees")
Great Pyramid
Miniature Datsun
Irish Settler
Jack Daniels Terrier
German Police Man
Chesapeake A Retriever
Borderline Collie
Chevy King Charles (Cavalier)

Unfortunately, this list is not surprising to me, though it is definitely quite amusing. I surf the pet section of Craigslist frequently, and have seen ads and misspellings of breeds even crazier than what is listed above!

Seven Ways to Keep Your Dog Safe This Halloween

2010-10-30T11:59:00.000-07:00

October 30, 2010

Play it safe with your dog on Halloween with these tips:

1) Keep all candy, particularly chocolate, out of reach.

2) Cellophane and wrappers can block intestinal tracts, so secure all rubbish. Also, watch for leftover Halloween litter while walking your pooch the next day.

3) Be smart with decorations. Wagging tails can easily knock over lit candles and jack-o-lanterns.

4) Only dress your dog in a costume if he can tolerate it. Don't cover her eyes or airways.

5) Keep Fido away from the front door, especially if he is not properly socialized with children or is known to escape.

6) Occupy your dog and avoid anxiety with a special chew toy.

7) Don't leave your pup outside. Pranks, taunting and theft are common this time of year.

(From the Team at http://fidodogtreats.com)

Helping Your Pet Adjust to New Situations (Entry #1 - Introduction)

2010-10-27T11:22:00.000-07:00

October 27, 2010

"Dogs are creatures of habit. Have you ever noticed how your pet anticipates and acts on certain cues in your daily routine, like going to her kennel when you pick up your briefcase or running to the kitchen when you ask your kids if they're hungry? Pets like having stability and routine in their lives. That's why pets experiencing major changes in to their daily routine - like moving to a new home or welcoming another pet - can sometimes require a little extra attention to minimize stress and anxiety." - VetPetHealth.com

Because of this, I thought it would be nice to start a new series that addresses how to help your pet adjust to various new situations. In this series, we'll cover how to help your dog during a move to a new home, how to introduce your dog to a new pet, how to help your dog adjust to a change in routine, how to recognize anxious body language in your dog, and tips for calming an anxious dog.

We hope this series will be helpful to all of our readers. If you have any suggestions of topics you would like us to cover, just shoot us an e-mail and let us know. We welcome your comments!

"Pumpkins Are a Dog's Best Friend" (taken from Daily Dog Tips)

2010-10-22T11:08:00.001-07:00

October 22, 2010

Highly palatable pumpkin is liked by dogs and their owners who recognize its nutritional benefits. This superfood is loaded with beta-carotene, which aids in cancer prevention, reduces inflammation and regulates Vitamin A. Vitamin C boosts basic immune functions, and the presence of Vitamin E also helps maintain healthy skin and coat.

Pumpkin is also high in fiber, which is vital to your dog's digestive health. A small amount of canned or fresh pumpkin puree is often recommended for dogs with upset stomachs and it is even known to help dogs who suffer from motion sickness. Stay away from pumpkin pie mix as it is loaded with sugar. Fruitables offers a variety of pumpkin-based treats that dogs enjoy.

Emma Zemba gives away healthy pet products on the FidoDogTreats Facebook Page.

**By Fido Dog Treats

PUPPY CAM IS BACK!!!

2010-08-15T17:00:00.000-07:00

I am very proud to announce that Ju-Ju had her first litter of puppies on Saturday, August 7th, 2010. Mama and babies (3 little girls) are all doing well. The password to view this puppy cam is "scrabble". We hope you enjoy watching these little girls grow as much as we do!

If, for some reason, you are unable to view the puppy cam, on this blog, you can view it by clicking here: http://www.ustream.tv/channel/sweet-samurai-japanese-spitz-puppy-cam---8-7-10

FIRST AID IN THE FIELD (Entry #9 - The First Aid Bandana)

2010-08-01T17:24:00.000-07:00

August 1, 2010

In this series, we have covered what you should do for various injuries that your dog may sustain. The problem is, unless you thoroughly commit this information to memory or have a computer near by, you still may not know the correct procedure to follow should an emergency occur.

Problem solved - I recently discovered the First Aid Bandana by Wag'N Pet: http://www.wagn4u.com/pet_first_aid_bandana.html. As the official product description states, this nifty item is a very useful resource in emergency situations, and covers topics such as Cold Injuries; Heat exhaustion and heat stroke first aid; Bleeding first aid; full list of situations requiring emergency veterinary care; choking management; insect, spider and snake bite first aid; burns; seizure response; and the ABCs for Cats & Dogs Diagram (which covers opening the airway, rescue breathing and CPR techniques). Summarizes symptoms and treatment.

Take this $8 bandana with you on your pet-accompanied hikes. In the unlikely event that an emergency occurs, you'll be very glad you had it.

The Benefits of Feeding Yogurt

2010-07-21T18:23:00.000-07:00

July 21, 2010

You've probably heard about the health benefits associated with humans eating yogurt, but did you know that your dog can benefit, as well? It's true. Yogurt not only improves the digestive health of your canine friend, but 1 teaspoon - 1 tablespoon per day can also help ward off infections in the body due to high yeast, such as ear and skin infections. Additionally, feeding yogurt helps to build a strong immunity and can ease the negative effects associated with taking antibiotics.

You can buy yogurt from your local market (our dogs prefer vanilla, rather than plain), but be sure to get the fat-free variety. If you want to stretch your dollar to make a little go along way, here is a recipe:

1) Preheat oven to its lowest setting, then turn the oven off, leaving the door closed.

2) In a heavy pot or double boiler, heat 1 gallon of milk (low-fat) to almost a boil, then remove from heat source and let it cool to 110 degrees Fahrenheit (about the temperature of a baby's bottle).

3) Stir a small amount of the warmed milk into 8 ounces of yogurt (be sure it contains live cultures) until blended. Gradually continue to stir in small amounts of milk until the mixture becomes thin, then pour the mixture into the remainder of the warm milk and stir until blended.

4) Pour the milk-yogurt mixture into plastic containers and cover with lids. If you prefer, leave the mixture in a covered pot, then transfer it to containers later.

5) Place in the warmed oven overnight. Leave the oven light on to provide warmth (if necessary, prop the oven door open with a wooden spoon to keep the light on).

6) Refrigerate the finished yogurt in the morning. This yogurt can be used to start the next batch.

I am a firm believer in the benefits of yogurt. My old Labrador, BlackJacks, suffered with severe, chronic ear infections for 7 years. After a strong round of antibiotics, we started giving him a tablespoon of yogurt every day. BlackJacks lived for 8 more years without another ear infection.

As many Japanese Spitz owners know, they can be prone to sensitive stomachs. With our JS, I have found that a bit of yogurt helps with their digestive issues, by providing beneficial bacteria called probiotics.

So, grab a couple of spoons and share a tasty yogurt treat. Not only will your furry best friend be healthier, but I'm willing to bet he'll be a tad bit happier, too!

The 4-1-1 on Heartworm Disease

2010-07-14T19:40:00.000-07:00

July 14, 2010

The sad truth, according to the American Heartworm Society, is that only 55% of dogs in the U.S. are on heartworm prevention medication, which means 27 million dogs are at risk of acquiring the disease. Out of that 27 million, it is estimated that 80% - 90% will acquire the disease. If not treated in time, heartworm disease has a 100% fatality rate.

HOW CAN YOUR DOG BECOME INFECTED? When Adult Heartworms reproduce, millions of microfilaria (baby heartworms) result. Microfilaria circulate in the blood of the host (infected animal). A mosquito bites the host, thereby ingesting the microfilaria. The mosquito then feeds on your dog, transmitting the infectious microfilaria into your dog's blood stream. The microfilaria molt in your dog's tissues for 3 - 4 months. Once the Microfilaria become worms (reaching up to 14 inches in length), the worms migrate from the tissues to the heart and surrounding blood vessels, where they mature to adulthood and the cycle continues. Adult heartworms cause severe heart and lung damage in canines.

IS THERE A PREVENTATIVE AND HOW DOES IT WORK? Yes. There are monthly heartworm preventatives. And it is much easier and cheaper than treating the disease after your dog has developed adult heartworms. Heartworm preventative kills the molting microfilaria in your dog's tissues. The preventative must be given monthly, otherwise it may be rendered uneffective. It is important to note that the preventative does NOT kill adult or near-adult heartworms. It is also important to note that if your dog currently has heartworm disease, consult your veterinarian before giving the preventative. Giving a heartworm positive dog a preventative prior to completion of treatment for the disease can prove to be fatal for your dog. For this same reason, all dogs should be tested for heartworm disease prior to beginning treatment.

CAN HEARTWORM DISEASE BE TREATED? Maybe. It depends on the stage of the disease. Stages 1 & 2 carry the best prognosis for survival (95% or more). Stage 3 patients have a fatality rate of 5 -20%. Statistics for Stage 4 patients are contradicting. Treatment involves killing the heartworms, which unfortunately, can also kill your pet. Dead worms can clog small blood vessels, causing your dog's organs to fail. Since vessels constrict during excitement and exercise, it is imperative that your dog stay calm, and possibly confined, during the months of treatment. The treatment is extremely expensive.

Your pet's hair, even if a double-coat exists, will not protect your pet from the disease-carrying mosquitoes that pass along . Heartworm-positive pets have been found in all 50 U.S. States. If you value your pet's life, heartworm preventative is an absolute must. Your four-legged best friend will thank you.

* A special thanks to my brother for suggesting this topic.

BBQ Beef Bones

2010-07-07T14:02:00.000-07:00

July 7, 2010

Summertime is the time for weekend cookouts and picnics. Why not let your four-legged friends partake in the paw-lickin' fun? PupDog Bakery in Illinois Amish Country has a great recipe to try.

Ingredients:
- 3 cups 100% whole-wheat flour - medium or fine grind. (For dogs with wheat allergies, you can substitute oat, rice, or potato flour at about 2 1/4 cups)
- 3/4 cup beef broth (low-sodium, no msg)
- 1/3 cup non-fat powdered milk (optional)
- 1/3 cup shortening, or 1/4 cup canola oil
- 1 egg
- 8 oz can of organic, low-sodium tomato sauce
- 2-3 tablespoons grated Parmesan cheese
- 1/2 teaspoon blackstrap molasses (you can use regular baking molasses, but blackstrap has significantly higher calcium and iron)

Directions:
1) Preheat the oven to 400 degrees.
2) Combine all dry ingredients.
3) Add the shortening or oil to the dry ingredients and mix well.
4) In a separate bowl, add egg to the broth, and beat by hand until smooth.
5) Pour the wet mixture into the dry, and mix by hand. Combine all the dry ingredients until a ball of dough is formed. If it seems too dry, add water (one teaspoon at a time) until dough pulls away easily from the sides of the bowl and your fingers. If the ball is very sticky, then its too wet, and you may add a little more flour (one teaspoon at a time) until desired.
6) Roll the dough to about 1/4 inch thick, and cut using a bone-shaped cookie cutter.
7) Lightly spray or grease a cookie sheet; cookies may be placed close together. Bake approximately 15 - 20 minutes or until brown on bottom. Remove from the oven, and let cookies cool.
8) To make the sweet and savory BBQ sauce, add 1/2 teaspoon of molasses to the entire can of tomato sauce and mix well. The molasses will give the sauce a delicious-looking brown color.
9) Lightly brush cooled cookies with the sauce, then sprinkle with Parmesan cheese.
10) Bake the treats at 350 degrees for 10 - 12 minutes, or until the edges of the bones begin to darken slightly. Let the treats cool overnight.

Alternate Version:
For BBQ Drumsticks, use chicken broth instead of beef broth, and cut into drumstick shapes. You can also use vegetable broth for a meatless treat.

This recipe makes about a pound of treats.

Independence Day, Noise Sensitivity & Safety Tips

2010-07-02T13:27:00.000-07:00

July 2, 2010

As we all know, fireworks = loud, booming noises. These noises can be very startling for some of our four-legged friends. Have you ever wondered why one puppy may grow to fear loud noises while another completely ignores them? According to Chris Cos-Evick, writer for DogFancy magazine, there are three contributing factors:

1) Genetics. "Some breeds, specifically hunting and sporting breeds, were developed for their ability to ignore loud noises," says Cheryl Smith, behavior lecturer and owner of Forever Friends Dog Training School in Ottawa, Ontario, Canada. She believes this partly explains why Labrador and Golden Retrievers often adapt well to large families."

2) Socialization. "The brain develops more neurotransmitters with exposure to stimuli," Smith says. That means your puppy needs ongoing varied experiences to accept life's noises.

3) Negative Association. Consistently banging the crate or clapping loudly to startle a puppy into stopping undesired behavior can create a lasting negative sound association.

Overall, consider your lifestyle before choosing a breed, socialize well, and stop undesirable behavior through training to help your puppy avoid noise sensitivity. For dogs sensitive to noise, you may reduce the reaction by playing music or a television fairly loudly in the background.

For more information regarding how to keep your dog calm and comfortable during Independence Day celebrations, visit my previous blog entry here: http://www.sweetsamuraikennels.blogspot.com/2009/07/fourth-of-july-fireworks-fright.html.

For ASPCA tips on how to keep furry friends safe during this holiday, visit my previous blog entry here: http://www.sweetsamuraikennels.blogspot.com/2009/06/fourth-of-july-safety-tips-from-aspca.html

June 25th is Take Your Dog To Work Day!

2010-06-20T15:38:00.000-07:00

June 20, 2010

Did you know that the fourth Friday of every June is "Take Your Dog to Work Day"? In 1988, Pet Sitters International began designating this day to help increase awareness for homeless pets. The rationale is that when businesses open their doors to employees' pets, non-pet owning co-workers will be inspired to adopt a best friend of their very own after witnessing the joys of the human-canine bond firsthand (according to Petcentric.com).

Not-so-surprisingly, employees are not the only ones to benefit from having pets at work. The employers benefit, as well. Studies have shown that allowing pets in the work place decreases absenteeism and smoking, while simultaneously increasing productivity, creativity, and amicable relationships between employees, their co-workers, and their supervisors.

If you plan to participate in this event, TakeYourDog.com provides 7 tips to ensure a safe and fun day:

1) DO AN OFFICE CHECK. Check with management and co-workers to see if anyone is allergic, afraid, or opposed to you bringing your dog to work for this one special day.

2) PUPPY-PROOF YOUR WORK SPACE. Remove poisonous plants, hide electrical cords and wires and secure toxic items such as correction fluid, permanent markers, etc. Any office items in question should be placed out of your dog's reach.

3) BATHE AND GROOM YOUR DOG BEFORE HIS OFFICE DEBUT. Be sure his shots are up-to-date. If your dog appears sick, don't bring him to the office. Dogs who are aggressive or overly shy should not accompany you to work. Instead, consider bringing a favorite picture of your pooch.

4) PREPARE A DOGGIE BAG. Include food, treats, bowls, toys, leash, paper towels, clean-up bags and pet-safe disinfectant (just in case). If you are routinely in and out of your work space, consider bringing a portable kennel for your dog's comfort and your peace of mind.

5) PLAN YOUR PET'S FEEDING TIMES CAREFULLY. Be sure to choose an appropriate area for your dog to relieve himself afterward.

6) AVOID FORCING CO-WORKERS TO INTERACT WITH YOUR DOG. Dog lovers will make themselves known. To avoid pet accidents, monitor the amount of treats your pet is being given. Remember that chocolate, candy, and other people food should not be shared with dogs.

7) HAVE AN EXIT STRATEGY. Although most dogs enjoy Take Your Dog To Work Day, your pet may not. Should your dog become overly boisterous, agitated, or withdrawn, consider taking him home. Most companies allow for this on this special day. Never, under any circumstances, leave your pet alone in a vehicle while you work. Consider enlisting the help of a professional pet sitter from www.petsit.com/locate.

For more information on how to make Take Your Dog to Work Day as successful as possible, visit www.TakeYourDog.com.

Buckle Up for Safety!

2010-06-17T11:18:00.000-07:00

June 17, 2010

According to the American Pet Products Association's 2009-2010 National Pet Owner survey, 56% of respondents said they do not restrain their dogs while driving. Another poll cited 62% as the number of unrestrained pets.

This is simply baffling to me. In an age where seat belt laws are the norm for humans, why do we, as pet parents, not realize that our four-legged friends need just as much protection? Maybe its because there are simply not enough affordable canine auto restraining devices. Maybe its a lack of education. Maybe a little bit of both, or a little of some other reason.

PetAutoSafety.com gives us something to think about - Seven reasons why you should restrain your pet in a vehicle:

1) The dog won't be able to distract the person driving the car. Distractions can be very dangerous to the driver. Some dogs are naturally well-behaved in the vehicle, but many dogs have to be trained in car-riding decorum. Why not train them in the pet auto seat belt instead?

2) Sudden unexpected stops won't cause the dog to fly forward into the dash, the back seat, or onto the floor, causing injury. A dog's nose is very sensitive. Hitting their nose on the dash or back of the seat can be a very painful experience.

3) The dog won't be able to put his/her head out of the window. Did you know that even a tiny spec of flying debris can do serious damage to the dog's eye or nose? Many dogs love to put their heads out of the window, but it can be an equally pleasant experience if they are sitting in a pet auto seat belt by an open window. He won't be able to put his head out, but he can still get a whiff of the multiple odors zipping by.

4) Not only will the dog not be able to put his head out of the window, he won't be able to get his body out either. Dogs are instinctive creatures and if something catches their attention, such as another dog, a squirrel, or other animal, they may go after it without a thought. Perhaps your dog is too smart to do this, but why take the chance?

5) Many dogs will run or even bite if frightened. What if you and your pet happen to be in a serious auto accident? Your dog is going to be terrified. If there is a means of escape, the dog may get out of the car and run. And where is he most likely to run? It would be a terrible thing to survive an auto accident only to get hit by a car. Even if there is no way for the dog to escape, he may need medical attention. An injured dog may react defensively by trying to bite someone who is actually there trying to help. A dog that is already restrained, however, is easier to muzzle and therefore, easier to attend to.

6) A pet auto seat belt can actually be quite comfortable once the dog gets used to it. Dogs can have a difficult time laying down in a seat because of the turning, speeding up, slowing down, and stopping movements of the car. Many dogs can brace themselves better by standing or sitting. With a pet auto seat belt, a dog can stand, sit or lay down comfortably and not have to worry about bracing themselves against car maneuvers.

7) Last but not least, a pet auto safety belt shows you to be a responsible and caring pet owner, as well as a responsible driver. Friends and strangers will be impressed with your thoughtfulness and foresight. They in turn may consider getting a pet auto seat belt for their dogs. You can be indirectly responsible for saving another dog's life.

We found wonderful little seat belts that hook directly to our dogs' harnesses. We found them on E-bay for approx. $3 each. It is necessary to note that these should NOT be hooked to your dog's collar - only a harness will do.

For more pet travel safety tips, visit: www.petautosafety.com or www.pawstoclick.com.

Cool Down With Dogsicles (Blueberry Flavored)

2010-06-14T19:52:00.000-07:00

June 14, 2010

As avid readers of my blog know, I am a big fan of Dog Fancy magazine. And the latest issue contains a couple of tasty treat recipes that you furry friend is sure to love. June promises to be a hot month for Tennessee residents. I wouldn't be surprised if your state's forecast is the same. So, why not help your four-legged family member cool down the tasty way - with dogsicles!

You Will Need:
- 12 paper cups (like Dixie cups) in 3 oz size for small dogs / or 8 paper cups in 5 oz size for large dogs
- Saucepan
- Blender

Blueberry-sicles Ingredients:
- 1 tablespoon flaxseed
- 1 teaspoon anise or fennel seed
- 24 ounces organic, greek or goat milk yogurt
- 1 cup fresh or frozen blueberries
- 1/4 cup water
- 1 tablespoon honey

Directions:
Put the flaxseed and anise or fennel seed into a blender. Blend until the seeds are ground. Add yogurt, blueberries, water, and honey to the blender. Blend to combine.

Assembly:
1) Arrange paper cups in a shallow pan that will fit in your freezer. Carefully spoon or pour the chicken-sicle mix into the cups, filling each about three-quarters full. Fill just half full for very small dogs. Carefully place the tray in the freezer and allow to freeze completely overnight.
2) To serve, remove from the freezer and offer it to your dog, preferably outside, to minimize any mess. Peel off the paper cup and put the popsicle in your dog's bowl.

The Science of The Growl

2010-06-11T11:00:00.000-07:00

June 11, 2010

Austrian and Hungarian researchers offered an interesting theory regarding a dog's growl in the April issue of Animal Behaviour (Vol. 79, Issue 4). The Question: Do dogs use context-specific agonistic vocalization when communicating? The Answer: It seems so.

According to a publication of the scientists' findings, they recorded several sequences of growls from various dogs in three different contexts: during play, guarding a bone from another dog, and reacting to a threatening stranger. The researchers discovered that play growls differ acoustically from the other two agonistic growls. Additionally, when a recording of a food-guarding growl was played in front of another dog that was tempted by an unattended meaty bone, the dog steered clear. This was not the case when the recording of the stranger-alert growl was played.

In summary, dogs understand the nuances of growls. Additionally, the researchers and scientists suggest that acoustic modulation of growls, which most human ears cannot register, may very well convey both honesty and deception in dogs. How intelligent our four-legged friends are!

So, pay close attention next time your pooch uses her voice. Can you figure out what she is trying to say to you?

Cool Down With Dogsicles (Chicken Flavored)

2010-06-07T18:10:00.000-07:00

June 7, 2010

As avid readers of my blog know, I am a big fan of Dog Fancy magazine. And the latest issue contains a couple of tasty treat recipes that you furry friend is sure to love. June promises to be a hot month for Tennessee residents. I wouldn't be surprised if your state's forecast is the same. So, why not help your four-legged family member cool down the tasty way - with dogsicles!

You Will Need:
- 12 paper cups (like Dixie cups) in 3 oz size for small dogs / or 8 paper cups in 5 oz size for large dogs
- Saucepan
- Blender

Chicken-sicles Ingredients:
- 1 quart chicken broth (low sodium) or water
- 1/2 pound boneless/skinless chicken breast (thawed)
- 1 garlic clove, peeled & minced (optional*)

Directions:
Put the chicken broth (or water), chicken breast and garlic in a large saucepan. Boil until the chicken is cooked through and soft (about 20 minutes). Remove the pan from heat. Carefully remove the chicken breast and cut it into very small pieces, or shred it using either two forks or a food processor. Return the chicken and juices to the pot. Allow to cool completely.

Assembly:
1) Arrange paper cups in a shallow pan that will fit in your freezer. Carefully spoon or pour the chicken-sicle mix into the cups, filling each about three-quarters full. Fill just half full for very small dogs. Carefully place the tray in the freezer and allow to freeze completely overnight.
2) To serve, remove from the freezer and offer it to your dog, preferably outside, to minimize any mess. Peel off the paper cup and put the popsicle in your dog's bowl.

If your dog likes this dogsicle, try inventing more flavors on your own. Yogurt with chopped apples with a dash of cinnamon? Cooked skinless turkey in broth with shredded carrots? Over-ripe bananas with a spoonful of peanut butter blended with apple juice? You can even freeze your dog-friendly leftovers such as lean meats and chopped vegetables in broth (no onions). Just spoon your creation into paper cups and freeze. How cool is that?

COOKING FOR CANINES - #4 (Canine Consumption No-No's)

2010-05-02T00:01:00.000-07:00

May 2, 2010

When cooking for your pooch, there are certain common foods that you should absolutely never-ever-ever add to the meal. Just like every one of us has seen our dogs eat something that would make us sick to our stomachs, we often eat things that could make our dogs very sick, sometimes fatally so. Since many Japanese Spitz tend to have finicky stomachs, they can be more uniquely sensitive to certain food toxins. It is because of this that you should keep a mental note of which of the most common human foods you shouldn't feed your dog.

Alcohol - Alcoholic beverages and foods containing alcohol should never be given to dogs. Alcohol attacks a dog's central nervous system. Clinical signs of toxicity: Decreased coordination, nausea, vomiting, diarrhea, difficulty breathing, and abnormal blood acidity resulting in coma and possibly death.

Avocado -Avocados contain a toxic ingredient called Persin, which is a fatty acid derivative. Clinical signs of toxicity: Difficulty breathing, diarrhea and vomiting, abdominal enlargement, abnormal fluid accumulations in the chest, abdomen and sac around the heart, possibly resulting in congestive heart failure and death.

Caffeine - Caffeine and Coffee beans contain methylxanthines, a cardiac stimulant. Clinical signs of toxicity: Vomiting and diarrhea, panting, excessive thirst and urination, hyperactivity, abnormal heart rhythm, tremors, seizures and possibly death.

Chives - Onions, Chives, Garlic and Shallots (as well as close relatives to this group of vegetables, such as leeks) contain a significant amount of N-propyl disulfide and thiosulphate. This causes the red blood cells to burst while they circulate in the body, which can cause anemia. Clinical signs of toxicity: Gastrointestinal irritation, blood in the urine, rapid heartbeat, excessive panting, lethargy, and anemia-related symptoms.

Chocolate - Most dog owners know that chocolate is bad for their dogs, but they don't understand why. Chocolate contains substances called theobromine & methylxanthines (also foundin cacao beans). Clinical signs of toxicity: Early on, your dog may become excited, agitated, nervous or hyper. Your dog may also have muscle tremors, vomiting, increased thirst and diarrhea. Your dog may also feel very hot. From there, symptoms could progress to coma. Some dogs have died almost immediately, presumably due to fatal cardiac arrhythmia.

Coffee - Caffeine and Coffee beans contain methylxanthines, a cardiac stimulant. Clinical signs of toxicity: Vomiting and diarrhea, panting, excessive thirst and urination, hyperactivity, abnormal heart rhythm, tremors, seizures and possibly death.

Garlic - Onions, Chives, Garlic and Shallots (as well as close relatives to this group of vegetables, such as leeks) contain a significant amount of N-propyl disulfide and thiosulphate. This causes the red blood cells to burst while they circulate in the body, which can cause anemia. Clinical signs of toxicity: Gastrointestinal irritation, blood in the urine, rapid heartbeat, excessive panting, lethargy, and anemia-related symptoms.

Grapes / Raisins - Though grapes and raisins are extremely toxic to dogs, especially if ingested in large quanities, the exact toxic agent is still unknown. The most likely suspect is a form of fungal toxin. Clinical signs of toxicity: Kidney failure, possibly resulting in death. Note that dogs who already have certain health problems may show more severe signs of poisoning.

Leeks - Onions, Chives, Garlic and Shallots (as well as close relatives to this group of vegetables, such as leeks) contain a significant amount of N-propyl disulfide and thiosulphate. This causes the red blood cells to burst while they circulate in the body, which can cause anemia. Clinical signs of toxicity: Gastrointestinal irritation, blood in the urine, rapid heartbeat, excessive panting, lethargy, and anemia-related symptoms.

Macadamia Nuts - This is one of the scariest poisons because even the smallest of quantites can cause temporary paralysis, and, similar to grapes, the exact toxic agent is currently unknown. Clinical signs of toxicity: Weakness, depression, vomiting, tremors, hyperthermia, and paralysis. Signs usually appear within 12 hours of ingestion and last approximately 12 to 48 hours.

Milk - The toxic agent in milk is lactose. Dogs do not possess significant amounts of lactase, which is the enzyme that breaks down lactose. Clinical signs of toxicity: Diarrhea or other digestive upset.

Onions - Onions, Chives, Garlic and Shallots (as well as close relatives to this group of vegetables, such as leeks) contain a significant amount of N-propyl disulfide and thiosulphate. This causes the red blood cells to burst while they circulate in the body, which can cause anemia. Clinical signs of toxicity: Gastrointestinal irritation, blood in the urine, rapid heartbeat, excessive panting, lethargy, and anemia-related symptoms.

Potato Leaves & Stems - Rhubarb Leaves, Tomato Leaves and Potato Leaves are some of the most dangerous plants for dogs to ingest. The leaves of these vegetables contain soluble calcium oxalates, which, when ingested, can lead to death of not treated fairly quickly. Also known to cause bladder stones. Note that the actual potatoes are fine, but you should avoid the skin, as it can contain poisonous alkaloids (Solanum). Clinical signs of toxicity: Excessive drooling, tremors and kidney failure.

Rhubarb Leaves - Rhubarb Leaves, Tomato Leaves and Potato Leaves are some of the most dangerous plants for dogs to ingest. The leaves of these vegetables contain soluble calcium oxalates, which, when ingested, can lead to death of not treated fairly quickly. Also known to cause bladder stones. Clinical signs of toxicity: Excessive drooling, tremors and kidney failure.

Salt - Large amounts of salt can produce excessive thirst and urination, or even sodium ion poisoning in pets. Clinical signs of toxicity vomiting, diarrhea, depression, tremors, elevated body temperature, seizures and even death.

Shallots - Onions, Chives, Garlic and Shallots (as well as close relatives to this group of vegetables, such as leeks) contain a significant amount of N-propyl disulfide and thiosulphate. This causes the red blood cells to burst while they circulate in the body, which can cause anemia. Clinical signs of toxicity: Gastrointestinal irritation, blood in the urine, rapid heartbeat, excessive panting, lethargy, and anemia-related symptoms.

Tomato Leaves & Stems - Rhubarb Leaves, Tomato Leaves and Potato Leaves are some of the most dangerous plants for dogs to ingest. The leaves of these vegetables contain soluble calcium oxalates, which, when ingested, can lead to death of not treated fairly quickly. Also known to cause bladder stones. Note that actual tomatoes are fine, though some dogs may be sensitive to the acid tomatoes contain. Clinical signs of toxicity: Excessive drooling, tremors and kidney failure.

Xylitol - Xylitol is used as a sweetener in many products, including gum, candy, baked goods, human toothpaste, and some breath mints. Though it is not something one would typically add to homemade dog food, I felt it was important to include it in this list due to its harmful nature. Xylitol causes insulin release in dogs. The increase in insulin leads to hypoglycemia (lowered sugar levels), possibly resulting in liver failure. Clinical signs of toxicity: Vomiting, lethargy and loss of coordination. Signs can progress to recumbancy and seizures. Elevated liver enzymes and liver failure can be seen within a few days.

Yeast Dough - Yeast dough can rise and cause gas to accumulate in your pet’s digestive system. This can be painful and can cause the stomach or intestines to rupture, if large amounts were ingested. Additionally, as the dough rises in your dog's stomach, the yeast ferments. The fermentation results in alcohol, which can cause alcohol toxicity (See Alcohol above). Because the risks diminish after the dough is cooked and the yeast has fully risen, pets can have small bits of bread as treats. Clinical signs of toxicity: Distended abdomen, abdominal pain.

It is important to note that this is NOT a complete list of human foods that are toxic to dogs. So, before adding a new ingredient to your canine's dinner recipe, make sure that the ingredient is safe by checking it out here: http://www.aspca.org/pet-care/poison-control/.

It is also important to note that many dog food recipes on the internet and in canine cook books can contain foods that may be toxic. I have found many recipes online that contain onions and garlic. So, don't blindly follow recipes that you find.

IF YOU SUSPECT YOUR PET HAS BEEN POISONED BY A TOXIC INGREDIENT, CONSULT YOUR VETERINARIAN IMMEDIATELY. If your vet is unavailable, these three national pet-poison information centers may be able to help. All charge a flat fee.

Angell Animal Poison Control Hotline - 877-2ANGELL (226-4355)
ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center - 888-426-4435 / www.aspca.org/pet-care/poison-control/
Pet Poison Helpline - 800-213-6680 / http://www.petpoisonhelpline.com/

PUPPY CAM - Puppies Born on March 6, 2010

2010-03-07T14:03:00.000-08:00

March 7, 2010

Yay! Puppies are here! This is a puppy cam for our 2010 litter, born on March 6th. We will broadcast the puppy cam live from about 9 a.m - 7 p.m. CST on weekdays and from about 10 a.m. to 7 p.m. CST on weekends. A recording is made of each broadcast, so during the times that we are not live, you will be able to view what happened during the day by simply watching the recorded video. At times, you may be asked for a password. If so, just type in the word "scrabble".

Four puppies were born (one boy and three girls). Until the puppies are big enough to wear collars or ribbons, they are identified by food coloring marks on their rumps, right above the tails.

We hope you enjoy the puppy cam as much as we do!
Streaming live video by Ustream

Educational Articles on Veterinary Care

2010-03-07T12:01:00.000-08:00

March 7, 2010

In 2003, my lab, BlackJacks, developed a quick-growing tumor on his face. His vet ran some tests, performed a biopsy, and discovered it was cancer. It was a scary time for all of us. And one thing that made it worse: I had no idea what the vet was talking about. I didn't understand the medical lingo and terminology. This lack of understanding added to my fear. If only I had known about an awesome website, provided by Purina, that allows individuals to search for and learn about various medical problems / procedures that you may have to deal with during the life of your dog.

The website (http://pethealthlibrary.purinacare.com/) provides articles, and sometimes videos, all designed to educate you. Did you know, for example, that a dog may show signs of an upcoming seizure for minutes or even hours before the seizure actually occurs? The website also contains tips on care at various stages of your pet's life, articles on emergency treatment, and a glossary of technological advances in veterinary medicine.

Hopefully your dog will never have to deal with anything quite as scary as cancer, but if something scary does come along, at least you now have a tool that can provide answers to some of your inevitable questions.

COOKING FOR CANINES - #3 (The Balanced Diet)

2010-03-04T00:01:00.000-08:00

March 4, 2010

The evolutionary diet of wolves and wild dogs historically consisted of almost all protein. This was when the main concern was procreation. Since the canine evolved into more of a domesticated companion, the concern became longevity. Science has taught us that there is a myriad of benefits in feeding fruits and vegetables to your dog, not the least of which is a long and healthy life.

Even so, when preparing a meal for Rover, you'll want to make sure it contains no less than 45% - 50% protein, as protein is still a very important part of the canine diet.

A simple formula to follow is this:

- 50% protein (beef, lamb, pork, chicken, turkey, eggs, fish, etc.)
- 25% fresh or frozen vegetables/fruits (carrots, broccoli, green peas, celery, zucchini, melons, apples, bananas, pears, etc.)
- 25% starch (oatmeal, potatoes, sweet potatoes, pasta, rice, etc.)
- calcium - 1/2 teaspoon per pound of fresh food (ground egg shells, seaweed, bone meal, oyster shells, etc.)

Meats
Japanese Spitz can have sensitive stomachs at times. Our dogs, for example, get an upset stomach if they eat certain rich meats like lamb and buffalo. If your dog has an overly sensitive stomach, poultry may be the best option for you. Eggs are a great healthy alternative as well. Fish has beneficial omega-3 fatty acids, however, it is better to stay away from albacore tuna due to its high mercury content.

Vegetables
Always feed a variety of different vegetables to keep the meals interesting and to ensure your dog is benefiting from the different nutrients various vegetables provide.

Non-starchy vegetables will need to be cooked or pureed to be digested by your dog. Whole and/or raw vegetables won't hurt your dog, but they don't provide the needed nutritional benefit. A vegetable's cell wall is made of a "protectant" called cellulose, and has to be broken down to reach the nutrients on the inside. We, as humans, do this by chewing. We have flat molars, which are made for exactly this. Dogs, however, have sharp, scissor-like teeth, made for tearing through raw meat. They use the "Bite and Swallow" method of eating, rather than chewing their food. This is why it is necessary to cook or puree the non-starchy vegetables you feed. Doing this will break down those cell walls, freeing the nutrients for absorption into your dog's body. The best way to cook non-starchy vegetables is by steaming because fewer nutrients are lost this way.

Starchy vegetables should always be cooked before feeding them to your dog. The best way to cook these vegetables is by baking or microwaving.

Fruits
Fruits can be fed raw. Overripe fruits are the easiest for your dog to digest. In the summer time, our dogs like when I blend various fruits in my blender and freeze them in muffin tins. Please remember that you should NEVER FEED GRAPES OR RAISINS TO YOUR DOG, as they are known to cause kidney failure, which can be fatal.

Calcium
It is very unfortunate that calcium is often overlooked in the homemade canine diet, because no diet is complete and balanced without it. High-protein foods, which make up the majority of your dogs homemade diet, contain large amounts of phosphorus. Balancing the calcium-phosphorus combination is vital. If calcium and phosphorus are not properly balanced in the diet, the body pulls calcium from the dog's bones to make up for the deficiency, leaving them weakened. There should always be more calcium then phosphorus. The recommended ratios for dogs range from 1-to-1 to 2-to-1 calcium to phosphorus.

I have found the easiest way to add calcium to our dogs' food is by grinding clean, dry eggshells in a clean coffee grinder. The shells are ground into a fine, easy-to-absorb powder. If the shells are kept dry, they will last indefinitely and there is no need to refrigerate them. 1/2 teaspoon of ground eggshell provides approx. 1,000 milligrams of calcium. This is the amount you should add to every pound of fresh food. If you feed a combination diet, add only enough calcium to match the fresh food portion of the diet.

If you choose to use oyster shells or bone meal to add calcium to your dog's diet, look for brands that state they have been tested for lead and found to be safe. Lead is a harmful contamination that is often found in these items.

IMPORTANT: Do not add more calcium than necessary. Even though adult dogs typically excrete excess calcium, calcium can bind many other minerals, which decreases the nutritional value of what you feed. Also, puppies less than 6 months old have less of an ability to control how much calcium their bodies absorb. A calcium excess in puppies can lead to skeletal problems such as hip dysplasia, hypertrophic osteodystrophy, and osteochondrosis. Lastly, pregnant females who are given an excess of calcium can develop a life-threatening condition called eclampsia when they begin nursing. It's fine to increase the calcium after the puppies are born, just don't increase calcium prior to whelping.

Bathing Your Japanese Spitz

2010-02-28T20:28:00.000-08:00

February 28, 2010

Its true that Japanese Spitz almost never have doggie odor, and that they typically require only four baths per year. However, even if you take your dog to a groomer for her quarterly baths, there may come a time when you have to take on the bathing of your Japanese Spitz yourself - especially if your dog decides to roll in poo, or some other unsavory thing. When that time comes, follow these simple steps and you will more-than-likely have a successful experience:

Always brush your dog first. Even though Japanese Spitz are not known for shedding, loose hairs often hide in the undercoat. A good brushing will remove these loose hairs, so as not to clog your drain. A brushing will also keep tangles from tightening after getting wet. Additionally, brushing helps to stimulate the natural oils in your dog's skin, which will help to prevent possible irritation from the shampoo.

Assemble your supplies. Unless you have someone helping you during the bathing processing, you most likely will not be able to leave your pet unattended in the bathing area in order to retrieve a shampoo bottle or towel. It is much better to have everything you need assembled and at your finger tips. You will need a gentle shampoo (stay away from those with chemical sudsing agents), cotton balls or soft tissue, ear cleaner, an absorbent towel, a blow dryer, and, if possible, a non-slip grip for your bath tub. Now, its probably a good idea to let your dog go potty outside before you begin the actual bathing.

Wet your dog down thoroughly. Because Japanese Spitz have thick, double coats, it can be hard to fully saturate your dog's fur. Nevertheless, this is necessary. Feed water directly into the coat. Begin at the back of your dog's neck and work down towards the tail. Then, do the belly and legs. When the time comes to wet your dog's face (save this for last), use a gentle spray or a large cup full of clean, warm water. Use care not to pour water into your dog's ears, as this could cause infection.

Lather your dog. Use your fingers to gently massage the skin and to work the shampoo throughout both the outer and under coats. If your dog's coat is particularly thick, a heavy-duty bath brush will help. Make sure that you don't neglect the feet and the bottom, as these are the areas that tend to get soiled, thus causing odor. Also, wash the face, taking care not to get shampoo in the eyes, nose or ears.

Rinse, Rinse, Rinse. The most frequent cause for skin irritation after a bath is soap residue. Rinse your dog until the water runs clear and your dog's entire coat feels free from soap. A water sprayer or hand-held shower head will with this. If you feel that you've gotten all the shampoo out of your dog's fur, then rinse some more. It is better to rinse too much than not enough. To rinse the face, use a large cup with clean, warm water. Cover your dog's eyes with one hand while rinsing the face, so as not to get soap in the eyes. If you prefer, you can apply a doggie conditioner to cut down on static, add more body, and to make your dog's hair more manageable. Rinse again until the water runs clear.

Drying the coat. Wring excess water out of your dog's hair. Then, stand back and let your dog shake. This is your dog's instinctive method of drying. Then grab the absorbent towel and towel-dry/blot the coat thoroughly. Many short-haired dogs can air-dry, however, the Japanese Spitz is not one of those dogs. It is now time to pull out the trusty blow dryer. It will help if you can use one had to brush the same area that you are drying with the blow dryer. Since human blow dryers tend to get hot, be sure not to leave the dryer blowing on one spot for too long.

Clean the ears. Pour the ear cleaning solution on the cotton ball or pad. Then, very gently, push it into your dog's ear until it stops. DO NOT force the pad after your meet resistance. Now, gently massage the ear with the cotton pad.

Important things to remember:

(1) Be sure to keep your dog warm until thoroughly dry. A Japanese Spitz can get chilled easily if the under coat isn't completely dry.

(2) Keep an eye on your dog if you let her outside immediately after bathing. Dogs like to dry themselves by rolling in the grass or in a nice dry patch of dirt. Of course, they might find that stinky thing again and roll in it. The last thing you want to have to do is have to give another bath so soon. Of course, if that does happen, at least now you're a pro and know exactly how to do it!

Discount Prescription Drug Program for Your Pets

2010-02-24T00:01:00.001-08:00

February 24, 2010

It can be hard, in these tough economic times, to figure out a way to pay for quality health care for your four-legged family member. Did you know that the National Association of Counties sponsors a discount prescription drug program that helps you save money, not only for your human family members, but for your pets, as well?

Almost 1/2 of all counties nationwide participate in this program, which is free to residents of those counties who do not already have prescription drug insurance or whose medication is not covered by health insurance. There are no age nor income requirements, and there are no medical condition restrictions. On average, an individual can save 23% on prescription drugs a the nearly 60,000 retail pharmacies also participate, including CVS, Rite Aid, and Wal-Mart. Simply present the drug card, along with the prescription from your veterinarian.

For more information on this program, or to see if your county participates, visit http://www.naco.org/.

COOKING FOR CANINES - #2 (The Combination Diet)

2010-02-21T00:01:00.000-08:00

February 21, 2010

You may want to feed your dog a homemade diet. But you might be hesitant because you don't have the knowledge or resources, or even the time to figure out the proper nutritional combination for your dog's breed and weight. The good news is you have another option: The combination option! You can improve your dog's nutritional intake, as well as give her a tastier variety, simply by mixing commercial food with fresh foods.

The first thing you need to do is decide what combination ratio you will feed. This will help you determine how much fresh food to feed your dog per day. You can replace up to 1/4 of your dog's diet without really having to worry about balancing the foods that you add. This is probably the best option for individuals with limited time.

If you decide to substitute 1/2 of your dog's diet with fresh food, you'll have to feed a variety of different foods to provide needed vitamins and minerals. Foods such as meat, eggs, dairy, fish, and small amounts of liver, along with various fresh fruits and vegetables is a good start. It is important to remember that if you substitute 1/2 of the diet, you will have to add additional calcium (1,000 milligrams per pound of added fresh food / 80 milligrams per 1.6 ounces of fresh food).

To estimate what 1/4 of your dog's diet is, you will need to multiply your dog's weight (in pounds) by 8. Then, divide that number by 100 to get the ounces of fresh food to add. In other words, if your dog weighs twenty pounds, use this formula: 20 x 8 = 160 ÷ 100 = 1.6. So, for the average 20 pound Japanese Spitz, 1.6 ounces of fresh food would be 1/4 of her diet. 3.2 ounces of fresh food would be 1/2 of her diet. It is important to remember that this is just an average. If your dog is extremely active, you'll want to add a little more. If your dog lays around all day, you'll want to add a little less.

Freshly prepared foods provide added nutrients and a variety of flavors that your Japanese Spitz is sure to appreciate, especially if your Spitz are as finicky as mine.

Indoor Brain Games (Entry #3 - "RC Chase")

2010-02-17T00:01:00.000-08:00

February 17, 2010

Still not warm enough for outdoor play? Is it raining and dreary outside? Play this indoor game to relieve some of your pooch's boredom.
For a special treat, purchase a sturdy remote-controlled car or truck and steer it around the house as your dog chases it. This game can get crazy, so make sure your dog doesn't crash into too many objects of fall down the stairs.

* A special thanks to DogWorld for providing the above game.

Dogs in Weddings

2010-02-14T00:01:00.000-08:00

February 14, 2010

In honor of Valentine's Day, I thought it would be fun to discuss the increase in the number of couples who are allowing their pets to participate in their weddings. According to Maryann Mott, writer for DogFancy Magazine, "Animal-friendly nuptials aren't surprising. Many single people live with a dog long before finding their future spouse, so it only makes sense they'd want their best friend to play an important role on the big day."

If you and your future spouse are considering including your dog in this very special occasion, you will definitely need to make a few preparations:

Ask wedding venue and/or place of worship, and reception hall if dogs are allowed.
Check with your photographer to see if he/she is OK working with animals.
Find a caregiver to watch your dog during the wedding, reception, and honeymoon. It is unrealistic to think that you will have the time and presence of mind to properly watch over your dog during these times.
Determine what role you want your dog to play in your wedding (i.e., ring bearer, bride's maid, usher, etc.). You may want to consider hiring a canine coordinator for your wedding, like Connie Formosa, owner of "Help I Have a Dog" in North Bergen, NJ. Her services include teaching your dog to walk nicely down the aisle, sit pretty for photos, and greet guests politely. Formosa says that a dog with absolutely no obedience skills needs to start his/her training at least four months in advance. A dog with obedience skills in place may just need about six weeks of practice.
Shop for canine wedding accessories or apparel. These range from tuxedos and satin bows to retractable leashes with embellishments.

Have fun with your dog on your wedding day and don't stress. Your dog can sense your mood. If you are anxious, your dog could become anxious, too. Make sure this is a joyous occasion for both of you!

COOKING FOR CANINES - #1 (Introduction)

2010-02-10T00:01:00.000-08:00

February 10, 2010

In 2009, my husband and I decided to weigh the pros and cons of putting our dogs on a homemade diet. The pros were significant - by cooking for the dogs and using human-grade ingredients, we could be sure that our dogs were only consuming FDA-regulated food. As I'm sure many of your know, there is no requirement for pet food products to have pre-market approval by the FDA. Plus, many pet food products come from other countries such China, the source of the massive 2007 pet food contamination, which resulted a hundreds of needless pet deaths.

The cons were, well, complicated. Granted, I briefly worried about the amount of time it would take to cook for the dogs. But that was an easy fix - it would only take about an hour every other weekend. I would just make a big batch of food and freeze half. My biggest concern was making sure that the food I make constitutes a well-balanced, healthy diet.

So, I researched. And then I researched some more. I came to the conclusion that, by combining 50% fresh ingredients with 50% high-grade, dry kibble, I could be comfortable that my dogs are safely getting the balanced nutrition that they need.

In this blog series, Cooking for Canines, I'll discuss everything I've learned, and continue to learn in my research. I'll discuss the importance of protein, calcium, and fruits & veggies, as well as the best sources. I'll discuss what you should never introduce into your dog's diet. I'll discuss money-saving and time-saving techniques. By the end of this series, hopefully you will better be able to determine whether cooking for your dog is right for you.

A Clean Bowl = A Healthy Dog

2010-02-06T00:01:00.001-08:00

February 6, 2010

Have you ever wondered how often you should clean your dog's food and water bowls? Have you ever wondered about the proper method of cleaning those bowls? The answer is not quite as simple as one would think.

The Type of Bowl to Use
First, let's discuss the best type of bowl to use. Always use a stainless steel or ceramic bowl. Plastic bowls have small groves that promote bacteria growth. Similarly, when cleaning your stainless steel or ceramic bowl, do not use an abrasive sponge, as this will cause small scratches/grooves in the bowl, making it easier for algae and bacteria to collect and grow.

The Water Bowl
Now that you have the right type of bowl, lets discuss the water bowl. Common sense says that any container that holds standing water for any period of time will breed bacteria. A common bacteria that can grow in water bowls is a reddish/pinkish slimy substance called Serratia Marcescens. This pink slime will grow in any moist location where phosphorous containing materials or fatty substances accumulate. Sources of these substances include soap residues in bathing areas, feces in toilets, soap and food residues in pet water dishes. It is important to note that Serratia will not survive in chlorinated drinking water from the tap, unless the water has been left standing long enough for the chlorine residual disinfectant to dissipate. Serratia has been found to be pathogenic to some, having been identified as a cause of urinary tract infections, wound infections, and even pneumonia.

Clean and disinfect the water bowl EVERY DAY, without exception.

The Food Bowl
Various factors determine the frequency at which you should clean your dog's food bowl. For instance, if you feed a raw food diet, you should wash and disinfect the bowl immediately after each use, so as to prevent salmonella poisoning.

If feeding homemade or a wet food, such as canned, you should wipe the bowl clean after each use, but you only need to wash and disinfect once per day.

If feeding a dry food or kibble, you can probably get by with washing and disinfecting the bowl once every other day. Of course, if your dog slobbers a lot while eating or makes a point to lick the bowl clean, you should probably go back to washing every day.

The Cleaning
A study published in the Canadian Veterinarian Journal sought to find out the best way to kill bacteria in food bowls. Scientists rubbed seven steel bowls and seven plastic bowls with a thin residue of food tainted with various bacteria, such as Salmonella. A quick rinse of warm water for 15 seconds ranked the worst. It was essentially as bad as not cleaning the bowls at all, even if wiped with a paper towel afterward.

The best method was this: Start with a warm water rinse, then scrub with dish soap (using a non-abrasive sponge), before immersing the bowl in a 10% chlorine solution for five minutes. It also doesn't hurt to run the bowls through your dishwasher once a week. To read more about the study, visit http://www.pubmedcentral.nih.gov/.

Alternative
Now I know what you may be thinking. We are a fast-food nation. I don't have time to wash my own dishes, much less my dog's food & water bowls! If you simply cannot wash your dog's bowls daily, you might want to consider having extra bowls on hand. If you keep 6-8 stainless steel bowls in your cabinet, just switch them out each day. You will only have to wash them twice a week.

Making sure your dogs always have clean bowls may cost a little more money and/or time, but the overall cost is minimal compared to the amount of time and money you will spend if your dogs contract a bacteria-related disease because his bowls are dirty. Isn't your four-legged best friend worth it?

Indoor Brain Games (Entry #2 - "Laser Pointer")

2010-02-03T00:01:00.001-08:00

February 3, 2010

It's early February and still quite a bit chilly outside. Maybe it's too cold for you to take your dog for that much needed brisk walk. If so, how about playing the below game to help your dog get that much-needed stimulation.
If your dog craves a more rousing game, get its attention by shining a laser pointer at the floor or low on a wall. Let your dog go wild chasing the red dot all over the house, over chairs and under beds. Be sure and let your dog "capture" the dot every now and then, and watch your dog's confusion as it ends up on top of his paws.

Never shine the laser in your dog's eyes because it can cause serious permanent damage to his vision.

* Thanks to DogWorld for providing the above game.

Keeping Up With Pet Food Recalls

2010-01-30T00:01:00.001-08:00

January 30, 2010

If you're anything like me, every time you feed your dog commercial dog food, you think about the many pet food recalls that have taken place this past decade. It can be overwhelming at times to try to keep up with the numerous recalls. Not only do you have to figure out where to go to locate the information, but you have to determine whether the information you have obtained is accurate.

Well, I have good news! The U.S. Department of Agriculture and the U.S. Department of Health and Human Services have joined forces to launch a new food-safety consumer website (http://www.foodsafety.gov/) that, fortunately, includes pet food recall information. The website is updated with the latest announcements from the federal government, as well as tips on how to handle food safely, and news from key agencies. Visitors to the website can sign up to receive e-mail and/or RSS alerts on recalled and potentially unsafe food.

TEACHING BASIC COMMANDS - Entry #12 ("Wait")

2010-01-27T00:01:00.001-08:00

January 27, 2010

Anyone who has owned a puppy knows how wild and unruly they can be. Sometimes they seem hyper and uncontrollable. Unfortunately, many follow bad advice and punish unruliness, not realizing that the key to managing a rowdy puppy lies in teaching self-control, even if the puppy is in an excited state.

One of the best ways to teach your puppy self-control, is to teach her the "Wait" command. The easiest way to do this is by utilizing your puppy's crate. When it is time for your puppy to come out of the crate, after waking up in the morning, for example, she is most likely very excited and ready to charge through when you open the crate door. Control this impulse by tossing a few tasty treats into the crate as you open the door. Then place your hand on her chest and say "Wait".

Now, gradually eliminate giving the treats and blocking her exit. Also, you will need to gradually transition the placing a hand on her chest, to holding your hand up, palm facing toward the puppy, and moving it from side to side. This will now be the hand-command for "Wait". Eventually, your puppy will learn to wait just by verbal and/or visual command.

Remember, expect only a few seconds of compliance at first. Then, increase the time as your puppy gains self-control. When it is time for your puppy to exit the crate, give her permission to do so by saying "Go" or something similar.

Once you teach your puppy to wait before exiting her crate, you are well ahead on teaching Wait for other uses. For example, you may want your dog to wait for permission to go through open doors or gates. In this case, start with your puppy on a leash beside you and close the door. Now, say "Wait", while looking down at your dog and using the hand signal, and reach for the door knob. If your puppy moves when you do that, drop your hands to your side, wait 5 seconds and try again.

When your puppy no longer moves as you reach for the door knob, try opening the door about an inch. If she moves, close it (be sure not to close it on her nose). Now, work on this until she waits. Now, release her & give her permission by saying, "Go" as you open the door. As your puppy's Wait improves, you can open doors gradually wider before releasing her to go through.

Practice this command every time your puppy exits her crate and every time she enters and exits the house, fenced-in yard, and car. Eventually, you will be able to open a door or gate all the way and your dog will wait politely for permission to go through.

To Chip or Not To Chip: Is This Really Still a Question?

2010-01-23T00:01:00.001-08:00

January 23, 2010

Recently, one of my favorite magazines, "Dog World", recently had an informative article on microchipping pets. If you're still on the fence about whether microchipping your dog is worth the $50 - $75 it typically costs, maybe the following article will help you decide:

Pets with microchips have a much greater chance of being reunited with their owners, a new study showed. Researchers found that the return-to-owner rate for microchipped dogs was 2 1/2 times higher than the rate of return for all stray dogs that had entered animal shelters.

"This is the first time there has been good data about the success of shelters finding the owners of pets with microchips," says the study's lead author Linda Lord, D.V.M., M.S., Ph.D., an assistant professor of veterinary preventive medicine at Ohio State University in Columbus. "We found that shelters did much better than they thought they did at returning animals with microchips to their owners."

In the study, 53 shelters in 23 states kept monthly records about microchipped dogs and cats that were brought to the facilities. In all, owners were found for 72.7 percent of microchipped animals. Lord's findings were published in the Journal of the American Veterinary Medical Association (July 15, 2009, Vol. 235, No. 2).

Veterinarians implant the microchip - about the size of a grain of rice - under the skin between the pet's shoulder blades. The chip contains a unique number that is revealed when the pet is scanned by a microchip detector. The number corresponds with the pet owner's contact information, which they provide when they register with the chip manufacturer.

"In the study, the biggest reason owners couldn't be found was because of an incorrect or disconnected phone number in the registration database," Lord says, adding that pet owners can also list the number with third-party registries, such as the American Animal Hospital Association's microchip website (http://petmicrochiplookup.org/). "The chip is only as good as my ability as a pet owner to keep my information up to date in the registry," Lord says.

* Thanks to Dog World magazine for the above article.

** Thanks to http://www.petsvcare.com/images/microchippic.jpg for providing the above picture.

Indoor Brain Games (Entry #1 - "Hide-and-Seek")

2010-01-20T00:01:00.001-08:00

January 20, 2010

We have had quite the cold spell in Tennessee this past month. A look at The Weather Channel tells me that most of the U.S. has weather that is just as miserable. Even so, it is important for your dog to get his exercise. Studies show that dogs who exercise regularly (both body and mind) are less likely to exhibit behavioral problems, such as excessive barking, chewing, and separation anxiety. But who wants to go outside for exercise in sub-zero temperatures? Fortunately, Dog World has provided some suggestions for fun/safe games you can play inside with your pooch if the weather is unbearable, one of which is the first entry in this new series.

Hide-and-Seek, Version #1
Dogs love nose games. Their keen sense of smell provides lots of options to occupy their minds & bodies. To play this game, you first need to place your dog in a DOWN position and tell him to STAY. (See the "Teaching Basic Commands" blog series for help with these commands.) If your dog does not know these commands, have someone else hold him. Now hide in another location in the house. Initially, you can hide in the next room to make the game easy, but once your dog picks up on the game, hide farther away in the house to make it challenging.

Once you've hidden, call your dog. Stay absolutely still and try not to giggle as you hear your dog running from room to room making loud sniffing noises. When your dog finds you, go crazy with delight, give him a little treat and tell him what an amazing search-and-rescue dog he would be.

I must say that our dogs absolutely LOVE playing the above game. And what a great way for them to practice the Sit/Stay command!

Hide-and-Seek, Version #2
For a different hiding game, take out a package of tiny treats, as well as one big bonanza goody, such as a nice meaty bone or a large chewy treat. Put your dog in his crate or in a room. Once you're out of sight, start walking around the house, dropping a small treat every few feet. At the end of your treat trail, hide the bonanza goody under a towel, behind the drapes, in a shoe or under a couch cushion - anywhere challenging.

Then go back, release your dog and walk with it to the beginning of the food trail. Watch as it follows your tasty path throughout the house - nose to the floor and ears perked - and ultimately discovers his jackpot.

*Thanks to DogWorld Magazine for the above games.

Retraction Regarding Two Japanese Spitz Rescues

2010-01-18T15:38:00.000-08:00

January 18, 2010

A couple of weeks ago I posted about a male and female Japanese Spitz who were rescued. I have since learned that I was mistaken in a few facts, so I wanted to clarify. The two had not been surrendered to a shelter. In fact, from what I understand, their former owners had taken very good care of them. Unfortunately, circumstances did not allow the former owners to keep the dogs, forcing them to find a new home for them.

Animal Relief for Haiti

2010-01-16T15:17:00.000-08:00

January 16, 2010

Major animal charities worldwide have formed the Animal Relief Coalition for Haiti (ARCH). Donate to your favorite today and specify ARCH to help desperate companion animals, strays, and millions of goats, chickens, and other farm animals, which also helps the people who love and care for them. These organizations are working non-stop to plan and implement support of every kind as soon as possible, and some are on the ground on the island right now. Please join the effort by supporting it with your donation. No amount is too small.

Founders of ARCH (international organizations you may not have heard of but you can trust):
http://www.ifaw.org/
http://www.wspa-international.org/

Organizations with roots in the USA:
http://www.americanhumane.org/
http://www.aspca.org/
http://www.bestfriends.org/
http://www.hsi.org/ (international arm of Humane Society of the United States)
http://www.kinshipcircle.org/ http://www.uan.org/ (known as the founder of EARS, Emergency Animal Rescue Services)

*The above provided by SunbearSquad.org.

Obesity in Dogs - UPDATE

2010-01-13T12:07:00.000-08:00

January 13, 2010

I just found the neatest little charts designed to help individuals who are trying to assist their canine friends in shedding a few of those unwanted pounds. Thank you DogChannel.com!!!

To print out your own copy, click here: http://dogchannel.com/images/newsletter/default.htm , then click on the "Chart" link at the 3rd bullet point.

Obesity in Dogs

2010-01-11T11:23:00.000-08:00

January 11, 2010

If you have watched television anytime in the past 48 months, you've probably seen a story or report on Obesity in America. Yes, it's true. The epidemic is spreading and we Americans seem to be at our fattest yet. But did you know that a large majority of American dogs are also a part of this epidemic? The modern dog has access to the best nutrition and health services in history. Nevertheless, the count of overweight dogs is on the rise.

Dogs have to rely on their humans to provide them with the best and most nutritional choices possible. Let's face it, if you give a dog the choice between a cheese burger and a nutritional kibble, he'll choose the the cheese burger every time. Of course, if you give a human the choice between a cheese burger and a carrot stick, most would probably choose the cheeseburger, as well.

The problem, it seems, is a lack of knowledge on the subject of nutrition, and how the lack of it can adversely affect your dog's (and your) body. Did you know that overweight dogs are at a greater risk of injury and complications during surgery? Their heart, liver, lungs, kidneys, and joints are more stressed. Obesity in dogs can cause heart attacks, strokes, respiratory problems (especially in extreme heat and during exercise), and diabetes. Overall, a dog's life is not only shortened, but his quality of life is greatly decreased.

How To Determine if Your Adult Japanese Spitz is Overweight or Obese
It is best to ask your vet to help you determine the ideal weight for your Japanese Spitz. However, the old standby is this: Can you feel your dog's ribs? If so, then then your dog is fit. However, the ribs should not protrude, as this could be a sign of malnourishment or disease. Now, if you're still not sure whether your dog is overweight, ask yourself this:

Does my dog have no waist?
Does my dog have a rounded stomach?
Does my dog have a thick fat covering the ribs that is soft and movable?
Does my dog have prominent folds of skin that sway when he walks?

If you answered "Yes" to any of these questions, your dog is most likely overweight.

How Did Your Japanese Spitz Get This Way?
There are many things that can cause a dog to be overweight. Obesity is how the body responds to too much energy saved as fat. Obesity in dogs is affected by the correlation between genetic factors, exercise, food management, and stress. Dogster.com breaks it down for us like this.

Obesity is affected by:
Food - Leaving a bowl of food out for your dog all the time is a sure path to obesity. So is giving your dog a caloric treat every time he asks for it.
Activity Level - Our society has moved away from plowing fields to plowing through the potato chips while sitting on the sofa. If we do exercise, it is at the gym. And too often, the daily mile dog walk turns into a quick run around the block just so Fido can do his business.
Illness - Certain conditions exacerbate canine obesity, such as hypothyroidism, Cushings Disease, Pancreatic Cancer, and pituitary problems.
Reproductive: Feeding a neutered or spayed dog an average amount can cause obesity. They need about 1/4 less than average.
Breed - Some breeds are more likely to become overweight or obese. These include Labrador Retrievers, Beagles, Cocker Spaniels, and Basset Hounds.

How Can I Help My Japanese Spitz Loose Weight?
Dogster offers the following suggestions for helping your dog shed those pounds. However, BEFORE ANY CHANGES IN DIET OR LIFESTYLE, CONSULT WITH YOUR VETERINARIAN.

FOOD:
Feed your dog two - three times per day. Ask you vet for advice on the amount, but in general, a dog needs 35 calories per pound per day to stay at her ideal weight. Avoid weight management foods, as they tend to be high in carbs and low in protein. Remember that treat calories are included in the daily calorie intake. Try small pieces of microwaved chicken, carrots, celery, a dab of peanut butter, or a small piece of low-fat cheese.

ACTIVITY LEVEL:
On average, a dog needs 30 minutes - 1 hour of exercise per day. This doesn't mean you have to run five miles with him. In addition to walks, dog parks provide good exercise, as does throwing a ball in the back yard. Remember to start slowly and build up gradually.

Here, I would like to interject and stress the importance of discussing an increase in activity level with your vet before you make the change, especially if you have and older or elderly dog. The last thing you want to do is cause more harm than good, as older dogs have greater stress in their joints, arthritis, and more brittle bones.

HEALTH:
Your vet can determine if an illness is causing or contributing to your dog's obesity. He can also prescribe a medication that suppresses a dog's appetite and blocks fat absorption, if appropriate.

The Good News
Canine Obesity can be treated and it doesn't have to be a death sentence for your beloved companion. Please remember, that treatment should be done slowly and under the supervision of your veterinarian. It is not safe for your dog should to shed more than 1 to 1-1/2 pounds per week.

***Please note that all of the above apply ONLY to adult dogs.***

Recent Study Findings: 1/4 of all Dog Toys Tested Contain Lead

2010-01-09T00:01:00.000-08:00

January 9, 2010

Well, this is a little scary. HealthyStuff.org conducted an independent study of various products over the past few years to determine whether the products contain dangerous levels of toxins. According to Dogster.com, this is what they found in the 400(+) pet toys/products (including beds, chew toys, stuffed toys, collars, leashes, and tennis balls) tested:

45% of pet products tested had detectable levels of one or more hazardous chemicals, including:

one-quarter of all pet products had detectable levels of lead.

7% of all pet products have lead levels greater than 300 ppm - the current CPSC lead standard for lead in children's products.

early half of pet collars had detectable levels of lead; with 27% exceeding 300 ppm - the CPSC limit for lead in children's products.

One half (48%) of tennis balls tested had detectable levels of lead. Tennis balls intended for pets were much more likely to contain lead. Sports tennis balls contain no lead.

Unfortunately, there are no government standards for hazardous chemicals in pet products. So, I guess I shouldn't be surprised that these toxic chemicals were found.

For information on the effects of lead poisoning and how it can affect the body, click here: (http://www.lead.org.au/fs/fst7.html)

For a full list of the pet products tested, click here: (http://www.healthystuff.org/departments/pets/product.least.php?rank=none)

HAPPY NEW YEAR FROM SWEET SAMURAI KENNELS

2010-01-01T11:14:00.000-08:00

January 1, 2010

We wish all of you a blessed and prosperous 2010!

(Ju-Ju)

(Sami)

(Geisha)

Tasty Christmas Goodie Recipies for Your Dogs

2009-12-24T00:01:00.000-08:00

December 24, 2009

If you're at all like me, you love baking Christmas cookies. And, if your dogs are like mine, they sit patiently in kitchen, puppy-dog eyes HUGE with excitement, drooling in hopes and anticipation of their mommy (me) accidentally dropping a tasty scrap of some food on the floor.

Well, imagine your dog's excite when she discovers that the cookies you've been making in the kitchen this whole time are actually treats for her! That's right! Why should people get to eat all the wonderful, edible treats this time of year? Here are two special recipes for doggie Christmas treats that your pooch is sure to love:

Doggie Christmas Cake Ingredients:
2 cups of whole wheat flour
¼ cup of wheat germ
2 teaspoons of baking powder
1 teaspoons of ground cinnamon
1 cup of molasses
½ cup of canola oil
2 eggs
1 teaspoon of vanilla extract
1 apple, cored and chopped

Directions: Preheat the oven to 350 degrees F. Oil a 12-cup bundt pan with vegetable oil and flour. In a bowl mix the flour, wheat germ, baking powder, and cinnamon together and set it on the side. Then in another large bowl mix together the molasses, and oil, then add in the eggs one by one, and beat them until they blend in. then add in the vanilla along with ½ cup of water. Add the flour mixture to the wet mixture and mix it well until it becomes smooth. Then fold in the chopped apple pieces.

Put the batter into the pan and place in the oven. Bake for around 30 to 40 minutes or until when inserting a toothpick in the center of a cake it comes out clean. Once done allow the cakes to cool completely before serving.

Peanut Butter Slice and Bake Biscuits
Ingredients:
1 cup whole wheat flour
¾ cup smooth peanut butter
½ cup water
2 tablespoons molasses
2 tsp plain wheat germ
¼ tsp sea salt
¼ cup shredded dried beef, saved for top of cookies

Directions:
Pre-heat oven to 375°.
In a pot on top of the stove, place your peanut butter, molasses, water, wheat germ and salt. Warm at medium heat.
Melt the ingredients together, whisking quickly.
Once melted and smooth, take the peanut butter mixture, which should now be nearly liquid, and put in a small bowl.
Measure your flour into a large mixing bowl, and fold in your liquid mixture slowly until your dough is soft. Be sure to have a well-floured board ready to go!
Once you have your dough mixed to the consistency you desire, turn it onto your floured board, roll it into a log shape. Place it in the refrigerator for two hours, until your dough is hard enough to slice into ¼-inch sections. If you are in a real rush, you can place it in the freezer for ½ hour until firm.

Have a cookie sheet ready to go, and spray it lightly with a non-stick spray.
Place your slice and bake cookies on the cookie sheet.
Put the dried beef in a blender or food processor to chop it.
Sprinkle the top of each cookie with your shredded, dried beef.
Bake for 25 minutes. Turn off the oven and let your cookies dry out as the oven cools down. This will make them hard and help keep them fresh. It will also bring out the flavor and make it more intense.

Once your cookies have completely cooled, it is time to place them in an air-tight container. You can either gift wrap them if you are giving them as a gift, or store them in your freezer up to three months until you are ready to serve them. You can also store them in the refrigerator for up to two weeks.
To save time in a pinch, you can also make the dough and freeze it for up to three months until you are ready to use it. I love these slice and bake treats because they are fun, fast and, most of all, easy!

Be sure to include these tasty recipes when you are doing your Christmas baking this year. Your family dog will thank you!

Dogster's Top Ten "Weird" Holiday Presents for your Pooch

2009-12-22T00:01:00.000-08:00

December 22, 2009

According to a recent survey, more than 80 percent of dog people will be giving their pooches presents this holiday season. Most will be presenting their dogs with treats and chew toys and other standard doggy fare. But what about dogs who like to think outside the box, or the dog who has everything? You’re in luck! We’ve sniffed long and hard for the most unique and/or oddball gifts for dogs. Get your favorite pooches any of these, and we can pretty much guarantee no other dogs on the block will have one. (And depending on the gift, the other dogs on the block may be very happy about this…)

Chicken-scented bubble dispenser – There’s nothing like chicken-scented bubbles floating around your house during the holidays to add to the festive mood — and sticky, smelly walls and floors. Dogs love chasing around the colorful bubbles (even if dogs are colorblind), and you get lots of exercise washing walls and mopping floors. (This one is probably best used outside, as it turns out.)
GPS collar – Humiliating beyond belief for dogs who are known for getting lost. Wearing a GPS collar is akin to your dog carrying a sign saying, “I have absolutely no sense of direction. I am a complete moron!” Besides, most dogs don’t know the first thing about using a GPS.

DNA test kit – The perfect gift for the mutt who’s sick of being called a “lab mix” or worse yet, “Heinz 57.” The test comes in two versions: A do-it-yourself cheek swab, which is less expensive and fairly accurate. Or a more accurate and pricey version, which involves a blood test. And isn’t a visit to the vet to get a blood test just what every dog wants for Christmas?
Dog painting kit — No, you do not paint your dog with this. Your dog paints masterpieces! As you could see from a high-strung canine artist who appeared on The Tonight Show the other night, every dog has an inner artist, and if his inner artist has a marketing genius for an owner, the inner artist will make the owner a lot of money.
Beer opener collar – Because nothing says “My owner is an idiot” better than being forced to wear a collar with its very own beer bottle opener. They come in two varieties. One is a little more classy, if you can say such a think about a beer bottle opener collar.
The other is, well, just watch this video for Bark 4 Beer collars.
Goggles – What dog wouldn’t want to look fashion forward and protect her vision from those nasty UV rays at the same time? Sunglasses fall off, but goggles don’t. (Sorry dogs…) There are likely about six dogs on earth who would consent to wear these things, including the poor dear above, but you have to give the company credit for trying.

Chewy shoe toy – Because nothing sends mixed messages about eating footwear like giving your dog a rubber sole to gnaw.
Chewy bra toy – Ditto, only in the underwear department. And this comes with two squeakers.
Dog armoire – The perfect gift for the wee dog who’s getting tired of picking out her fashion choices from a heap on the floor.

Talking treat ball – The idea behind the Talk to Me Treat Ball is that you record your voice in the ball, and when your dog noses the ball around to seek out the hidden treats, your voice is activated, bringing comfort and joy. Some dogs may indeed like this, but it might freak out other dogs who wonder how to get their suddenly shrunken person out of the rolling ball before the treats crush them.

** A special thanks to Maria Goodavage of Dogster.com for this story**

"Welcome" Card for Guests

2009-12-19T00:01:00.000-08:00

December 19, 2009

Christmas is the season when our homes are typically full of guests, many of whom may be overnight guests. Unfortunately, individuals who are not used to staying in your home may not understand the doggy care"dos and don'ts" that are second-nature for your immediate family. A good way to help holiday guests learn a few guidelines for taking care of the family dog, is by printing out this adorable card to leave in guests’ rooms. It will remind them of things they can do to keep your family pet safe.

To print out a copy of the card, click here: http://www.dogchannel.com/images/media/pdfs/xmasDFDC.pdf

ASPCA Air Travel Tips

2009-12-17T19:51:00.000-08:00

December 17, 2009

As Christmas approaches, many of us will be traveling to visit family and friends. No doubt, many will be taking our furry famliy members with us. If choosing to fly, the ASPCA has provided ten tips to ensure safe air travel for your pet.

The ASPCA urges pet owners to think twice about flying their pets on commercial airlines, especially if they plan on checking them in as cargo. Unless your animal is small enough to fit under your seat and you can bring him or her in the cabin, the ASPCA recommends pet owners to not fly their animal. If pet owners have already committed to transporting their pets on commercial airlines, the ASPCA is offering the following top ten tips for safe air travel with your pet:

Make an appointment with your pet's veterinarian for a checkup, and make sure all vaccinations are up-to-date. Obtain a health certificate from your veterinarian dated within 10 days of departure. For travel outside of the continental United States, additional planning and health care requirements may be necessary. Contact the foreign office of the country you are traveling to for more information.

Make sure your pet has a microchip for identification and is wearing a collar and ID tag. Breakaway collars are best for cats. The collar should also include destination information in case your pet escapes.

Book a direct flight whenever possible. This will decrease the chances that your pet is left on the tarmac during extreme weather conditions or mishandled by baggage personnel.

Purchase a USDA-approved shipping crate that is large enough for your pet to stand, sit and turn around in comfortably. Shipping crates can be purchased from many pet supply stores and airlines.

Write the words "Live Animal" in letters at least one inch tall on top of and at least one side of the crate. Use arrows to prominently indicate the upright position of the crate. On the top of the crate, write the name, address and telephone number of your pet's destination point, and whether you will be accompanying him or if someone else is picking him up. Make sure that the door is securely closed, but not locked, so that airline personnel can open it in case of an emergency. Line the crate bottom with some type of bedding—shredded paper or towels— to absorb accidents.

Affix a current photograph of your pet to the top of the crate for identification purposes. Should your pet escape from the carrier, this could be a lifesaver. You should also carry a photograph of your pet.

The night before you leave, make sure you’ve frozen a small dish or tray of water for your pet. This way, it can’t spill during loading, and will melt by the time he’s thirsty. Tape a small pouch, preferably cloth, of dried food outside the crate. Airline personnel will be able to feed your pet in case he gets hungry on long-distance flights or a layover.

Tranquilizing your pet is generally not recommended, as it could hamper his breathing. Check with your veterinarian first.

Tell every airline employee you encounter, on the ground and in the air, that you are traveling with a pet in the cargo hold. This way, they’ll be ready if any additional considerations or attention is needed.

If the plane is delayed, or if you have any concerns about the welfare of your pet, insist that airline personnel check the animal whenever feasible. In certain situations, removing the animal from the cargo hold and deplaneing may be warranted.

Traveling can be highly stressful, both for you and the four-legged members of your family. But with thoughtful preparation, you can ensure a safe and comfortable trip for everyone.

Can Dogs get the Swine Flu? (UPDATE)

2009-12-01T04:49:00.000-08:00

December 1, 2009

In October, I posted about dogs and the Swine Flu. Since that time, the virus has morphed and can now be transmitted to household pets, including those of the canine and feline variety. Today, I discovered an article about a few dogs testing positive in China. The article further states that dogs from various countries, including the U.S., have also tested positive for the virus.

Here are the details from Red Orbit.

China’s Ministry of Agriculture has called for intensified monitoring and investigation of A/H1N1 flu in animals after two samples from sick dogs tested positive for the virus, according to a recent AFP report. The veterinary clinic of College of Veterinary Medicine at the China Agricultural University reported Wednesday that two out of 52 samples from sick dogs tested positive for A/H1N1 flu virus, the ministry said late Friday. Countries including the U.S., Canada and Chile have already reported cases of animals testing positive for the virus. An Iowa state cat was diagnosed with H1N1 at the beginning of the month, being the first known case in the world of the strain spreading to the feline population.

The American Veterinary Medical Association is a great resource for breaking developments in the matter of swine flu in pets. It’s a good idea to bookmark it and check it regularly if you are interested in the subject.

The best way to ensure your dogs don't get sick, is to do all you can to keep the members of our household from getting sick. Here are some tips to help you with this:

Wash your hands often
Cover you nose and mouth if you sneeze or if someone around you does
Be sure to eat a balanced diet ~Exercise (which you should already be doing with your dog)
Stay hydrated, drink your fluids especially water, try drinking lemon water its good for your immune system, and you might like it.
Get a full night sleep
Take your vitamins, like vitamin C
There is also a variety of food that you can eat to help you boost your immune system.

As always, if you feel your dog is sick, contact your veterinarian.

Training Out Food Aggression

2009-11-25T00:01:00.000-08:00

November 25, 2009

We really spoiled our little Geisha (our very first JS) when we got her. For the first year of her life, she got everything she wanted - Every kind of pampering imaginable, every type of tasty food/treat available. When she wanted something, the word "No" was rarely used. We had no idea how easily this breed takes to spoiling, and we unintentionally created quite the diva.

It was after she turned a year old that she exhibited the first signs of food aggression. One day after a shopping trip, I brought home a few very special bones for the dogs. BlackJacks finished his immediately. Sami was just a puppy & his little puppy jaws had gotten tired, so he gave up & went to play with his stuffed bear. After about 20 minutes, Geisha was still working away on hers, and since it was about to get dark outside, I really needed her quit focusing on the bone and come inside. The problem was, all she wanted to do was chew on her tasty new bone. Frustrated that she was ignoring me (something that was normally unlike her), I walked up to her & took the bone away. She got mad then growled and snapped at me. I was stunned! I couldn't believe it. My precious little angel was not acting very angel-like. So, after smacking her little bottom & bringing her inside, I did the only thing I knew to do - I studied up on the best way to nip the problem in the bud.

Guarding food in any form (whether by biting, growling, a confrontational stance, etc.) is always a big No-No and should never be tolerated. This is one thing that all shelters test a dog on beforing OK'ing it for adoption. It is very sad (and I completely disagree with this practice), but if a dog shows food aggression in a shelter, it is often euthanized. This is unfortunate, because it is very possible to train food aggression out of a dog, if the dog is lucky enough to have someone willing to take the time to do so.

In order to correct this bad behavior, you have to understand why your dog feels the necessity to exhibit the behavior in the first place. Food aggression typically occurs when your dog feels that the food in her bowl (or the bone she is chewing on) actually belongs to her. In the wild wolf packs, the alpha males/females eat first. Then, they may allow lower dogs in the pack to eat some of the meal. The lower dogs in the pack understand that the food actually belongs to the alpha(s), and that they are only able to eat because the alpha(s) allow it. So, the solution here is obvious. You need to make your dog realize that all the food/bones/toys in the house actually belong to you. You are just allowing her to eat it/play with it.

To do this, you'll need to begin by changing the way you feed your dog. Initially, don't give her whole bowls of kibble at a time. Put dog food in her bowl and hold it your hand. Now, with your other hand, let her see you pick up some kibble & put it to your mouth. Act like you're eating it & let your dog think you are eating it. She may be shocked at first and wonder why in the world you are eating her food. Now, pick up some more kibble and give it to your dog. Let her eat it from your hand. Repeat the process until the food is gone & do this for a day or two. If your dog eats wet food, then just use a spoon instead of your fingers. Now, if you feel like your dog has made progress and no longer exhibits a "sense of entitlement", you can move on to the next step.

Put the bowl down for your dog to eat out of. Then, while she is eating out of the bowl, every-now-and-then use a spoon to stir the food/kibble inside (use a long-handled spoon if you're still a little worried about biting). If your dog growls, snaps, etc., pick up the bowl of food and take it away. Hold the bowl of food in your hands (out of the dog's reach) until she calms down or sits politely. Then you can put the bowl back down & let her eat out of it again. Repeat this process a couple of times during each meal until your dog learns that her possessive attitude toward the food is unacceptable.

If you have taught your dog how to sit/stay. Put her in that position before putting her food bowl down for her to eat out of. Don't allow her walk over to the bowl until you give her the release word & tell her it's now OK for her to eat. This again reinforces to her that the food belongs to you. I recommend doing this every meal throughout your dog's life. We do this with all three of our JS, even though the other two never showed any signs of becoming food-aggressive. It is simply an easy way to continually re-affirm our positions as the pack alphas.

I'm glad to say that it only took one or two feeding sessions for Geisha to realize the "pecking order" had changed. It only took about a week or so before all food aggression was completely gone. We can now stick our fingers in her bowl and play with her food while she is eating, and it doesn't effect her attitude or demeanor in the slightest. Sure, she's still a little diva, but a sweet diva we can deal with. :)

TEACHING BASIC COMMANDS - Entry #11 (Loose Leash Walking)

2009-11-21T00:01:00.000-08:00

November 21, 2009

When little Ju-Ju was about six months old, she absolutely hated walking on a leash. She can be a stubborn little thing. The more we tugged on her leash, the more she would pull back. Eventually, she would just plop down and refuse to go any further. To combat this problem, we taught her how to loose-leash walk.

Japanese Spitz respond very well to praise and positive reinforcement, so with training a JS to do anything, be sure to use this method. When teaching very young or very stubborn puppies, you'll need to sweeten the deal a little by adding a very tasty treat to the mix. The treat should be something that you can cut into very small pieces (you'll be using a lot of them). I like to use bits of fat-free shredded cheese or small, diced pieces of a turkey hot dog. Don't use these treats for anything other than your training sessions because you'll want your puppy to stay excited about the possibility of getting to eat some of these treats.

Put these treats in a Ziploc bag & tie the bag to your belt loop or put it in your pocket. Make sure to put it on the same side of the body that your dog will be on. You'll need easy access to the treats, so leave the bag open. Now, that your prep work is done, slip a leash on the little guy let's get started.

First, stand beside your dog and hold the leash in your opposite hand. In other words, if your dog is on the right side of your body, hold the leash in your left hand. Now, using your right hand, show your dog the treat. Let him smell it, and then let him eat it. Do this just once. Now he knows what a good thing he's in for if he does what is asked of him.

Take another treat out of the bag and let him see it. Now, while holding the leash loosely with slack, say the words, "Lets go" and take a step or two forward, starting with the leg that is closest to your dog. Hopefully, he will walk with you, following the treat. If he does, give him the treat, pet him & praise him with lots of "Good boys!". If he doesn't follow, stop walking, bend down and and encourage him to come to you. When he does, give him the treat, petting and praise.

Repeat this process, slowly increasing the amount of steps you take between treats. Eventually, following beside you while on a leash will be common-nature to him.

Some important things to remember: (1) Begin your training session in an area your dog is familiar with, so there won't be any distractions. (2) Your dog may try to jump up on you to get the treat or for praise. If this happens, stop walking and correct him by firmly tell him "No". You don't want to encourage this behavior. Now, take a step forward. If he walks forward, give him the treat, petting & praise and resume the training session. (3) If your dog is young, he may get bored easily. Keep your training sessions short - no longer than 15 mins at a time, twice a day. (4) Always end your training sessions on a positive note.

Now, Ju-Ju loves her leash walks just as much as our other dogs. She even gets excited when she sees us pull her harness/leash out of the drawer because she knows a walk is in her immediate future. With a little patience, your dog will be just as eager to wear his leash and go on walks with you!

(A special thanks to little Shiro and his human companion, Simon, for suggesting this topic of discussion.)

A Doggie Thanksgiving Dinner

2009-11-18T00:01:00.000-08:00

November 18, 209

Ahhhh. Just the thought of our upcoming family's Thanksgiving dinner makes my mouth water. So why should we humans enjoy all the tasty treats? Thanks to DogFancy magazine and The Healthy Dog Cookbook*, here is a recipe for a Thanksgiving dinner that your four-legged family members are sure to love:

You can create this tasty meal for your special friend using your cooked, skinless, turkey leftovers or by following the roasting instructions for uncooked turkey pieces.

Prep time:
30 minutes

Makes:
Nine 1-cup servings

Ingredients: 3 lbs skinless turkey pieces (light and dark meat)
1 c (about 6 oz) oatmeal
1 lb sweet potatoes, cubed
2 tbsp cranberry sauce
4 tbsp turkey gravy

Directions:
1) Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Lightly oil a roasting pan.
2) Roast turkey until meat juices run clear when pierced with a skewer. Boneless breast or thigh, 30-45 mins; boned breast or thigh, 45-60 mins. Let cool.
3) Remove all bones; dice meat into large pieces.
4) If using fresh sweet potatoes, roast with turkey for 25 - 30 mins or until tender. Let cool, then peel and dice.
5) Meanwhile, cook oatmeal according to package instructions.
6) Mix turkey meat, oatmeal, sweet potatoes, and cranberry sauce together. Pour gravy over the mixture.

Serving size:
Small dogs, 3/4 cup
Medium dogs, 1 1/2 cups
Larger or more active dogs, 3 cups

Be sure to follow this recipe exactly and not make any additions. Spices such as sage (commonly found in stuffing/dressing) can be poisonous to dogs.

* The Healthy Dog Cookbook: 50 Nutritious and Delicious Recipes Your Dog Will Love was published by TFH Publications, Inc. in 2008 © Ivy Press Ltd.

Four Legs and a Crowd: Keeping your dog safe when company calls

2009-11-14T00:01:00.000-08:00

November 14, 2009

This time of year, company comes calling more often than usual, and resident dogs often need help dealing with holiday guests. Follow these tips to keep your dog safe:

Brief your guests. Remind visitors of any rules you have regarding human-dog interactions, such as no jumping and no dogs on the beds. If your guests follow the rules, you'll save your dog a lot of confusion.

Don't feed from the table. People food is not always safe for dogs, and inattentive guests may not know they're reinforcing bad behavior. This gives your dog the impression that yummy-smelling food on the table is simply there to be cadged by barking, jumping up and helping herself to a plate, says Penelope Brown, a dog trainer in Washington, D.C. Discourage such behavior by putting your four-legged friend's food in her own dish.

Remove food from the counter. "As we teach our dogs not to counter surf by making alternative activities more rewarding, it's important not to tempt her to make a mistake," Brown says.

Keep her away from the door. Frequent comings and goings give your dog too much opportunity to escape. Keep her in another room, or crate her during arrivals and departures.

Don't force interactions. Some dogs aren't comfortable around people they don't know. If that's the case with your dog, don't expect her to be a genial canine host. Liz Palika, a trainer in Oceanside, CA, suggests making a safe, quiet place to which your dog can retreat when the crush of people or bustle of the holidays gets to be too much.

* The preceeding is courtesy of Susan McCullough for DogFancy magazine.

FIRST AID IN THE FIELD (Entry #8 - "Grass Seeds in the Eyes")

2009-11-11T00:01:00.000-08:00

November 11, 2009

Grass seeds become common and prevalent during the autumn months. When your dogs are playing outside, they can brush up against tall grass seeds at eye-level. Unfortunately, the grass seeds can become stuck behind the dog's third eyelid. (The third eyelid is a clear, retractable protector that slides over the dog's eye.) Unfortunately, other than preventing your dog from running through brush, there is no fool-proof prevention. All you can do is to treat the injury if it occurs.

First, you'll need to assess whether your dog has a grass seed in her eye. If a seed is present, you'll notice your dog squinting while outside, or immediately after your dog comes indoors. If the squinting is there and if it persists, it is likely a grass seed is there. Now, it will need to be removed.

If you tend to get a little squeamish, if you don't have extremely steady hands, or if you are not confident that your dog will stay perfectly still during removal, it is best to take a quick trip to your veterinarian. If you plan to try to remove the seed yourself, you first need to apply an eye-numbing agent, such as Proparacaine, which your vet can provide.

Next, lift the third eyelid using tweezers. This is when steady hands, and your dog remaining perfectly still, will be necessary, as your dog's eye will be very vulnerable and easy to injure at this point. Now, carefully grab the grass seed with your fingertips, and remove it from your dog's eye. Make sure you do not push the seed along the eyeball with your finger, because scratching could occur.

If your dog's eye continues to water and/or if squinting persists, take your dog to the vet to be checked.

Toy Storage - Safer for you, More fun for Fido

2009-11-07T00:01:00.000-08:00

November 7, 2009

Having worked in connection with the health care industry for almost a decade now, I've seen quite a few pet-related injuries. Unsurprisingly, most of these injuries occur while an individual is walking his/her dog (i.e., getting tangled in leash, tripping over dog, etc.). Only slightly less common are injuries that occur when an individual stumbles over doggie toys and bones, resulting in a falls. Occasionally, these falls prove be fatal if the individual falls down stairs or bumps his/her head.

This is one reason I am an advocate for doggie toy storage bins. When your furry friends aren't playing with the toys, you can put them in the bin to prevent you and your guests from tripping on them. In our home, we use a small wicker basket that we keep by our fireplace. The dogs have easy access to the toys and can retrieve them at any time.

Pia Silvani, certified dog trainer and animal behavior consultant, suggests dual toy storage: Allow only chew toys in the house. Keep raucous-time fetch toys outdoors, perhaps in a bin on the back porch. Not only is this orderly, but this way the dogs learn that when it's time for [rambunctious] play, we go outside.

Ms. Silvani's 1 year old puppy, Lena, initially picked up socks and shoes, as if they were toys. Lena now knows that when she wants to play or a chew toy, she must head to the toy bins. It is important to remember to rotate the toys that you keep in your bin(s). Just like children, puppies can get bored of playing with the same toys day in and day out. A constant rotation will keep your dogs interested and wondering, with each visit to ther bin, what toys will be waiting for them.

CARING FOR YOUR SENIOR (Entry #4 - "Respecting the Elders")

2009-11-04T00:01:00.001-08:00

November 4, 2009

As your dog ages, other dogs within the household, dog park playmates, and unfamiliar dogs may become increasingly pushy or aggressive toward him. If you ignore or fail to notice these changing attitudes, your senior can suffer stress, serious injury or worse.

Dogs often view injured, sick, or older dogs as a liability to the pack. This reflects the vital role each pack member would play if dogs still hunted for food. Those unable to perform would be pushed aside or quickly dispatched.

Of course, many dogs remain amicable toward their seniors, but safety demands supervised interaction. If another dog forcefully bumps into, knocks down, or growls at your older dog, separate them immediately. Never leave your senior alone with an assertive dog or multiple dogs.

* The preceeding is courtesy of Chris Cox-Evick of DogFancy magazine.

Halloween Safety Tips

2009-10-30T00:01:00.000-07:00

October 30, 2009

Pop quiz . . . Which holiday finds more pets straying or dying than any other holiday? According to Liam Crowe, the CEO of Bark Busters USA and dog behaviorist, the answer is Halloween. Yikes! Well, thanks to Bark Buster of Dogster's Dog Blog, here are ten tips that will help to ensure a safe Halloween for your furry little ghosts and goblins:

1. Don’t leave your dog outside. Even if you have a fenced yard, bring your dog inside where it is safe. If your dog is usually kept outside, bring him in a few times before the big night to get him used to being indoors. Your dog may be used to strangers, but so many little kids in costumes running about may be too much. Remember also that it is a natural instinct for dogs to protect the family from strangers, and on Halloween there will be no shortage of strangers.

2. Keep your dog restrained. If your dog is timid or scared, or if he tends to love people a little too much, it is best to put him in a separate room away from the front door to limit his excitability, aggression, and chance of running outside and becoming lost.
3. Reassure your dog. The best thing you can do for your dog when he is feeling unsettled by Halloween activities is to act as you normally would. By over-reassuring your dog or giving him an unusual amount of attention, you inadvertently can communicate to him that because you are acting differently, there must be something to worry about.
4. Have your dog get used to costumes. Your dog may see his family members as strangers once they don their Halloween costumes. Before the kids put them on, allow your dog to scent the costumes. If your costume has a mask, keep the mask off when you are with your dog because dogs can become confused when they can't see our faces.

5. Check your dog’s ID tag. Be sure identification tags are secure on your dog’s collar-just in case.

6. Keep candy away from your dog. Many candies-especially chocolate-are toxic to dogs. The severity of the toxicity depends greatly on factors such as breed, age, size, and how much candy was ingested. Problems may range from a mild upset tummy to vomiting and diarrhea, or even death. If you have any concerns at all, consult with a veterinarian immediately. If you want to keep your dog safe, make certain that sweets, including their wrappers, are kept well away from your dog.
7. Protect dogs from candles and pumpkins. Excited or agitated dogs can easily knock over a lit candle or pumpkin. Be sure those items are away from your dog’s reach, or consider a battery-powered candle that does not burn.
8. Think twice about dressing your dog in a costume. While some dogs might enjoy being dressed up, many don’t. Experiment first to see if your dog likes being in a costume. If so, fine-he’ll most likely enjoy himself and the extra attention it brings. However, if he shows any resistance, don’t do it. Dogs feel enough stress around Halloween without also having to endure the discomfort and peculiarity of wearing a strange costume.

9. Be prepared. If you take your dog with you while trick-or-treating, be prepared at all times. Do not let your dog approach the door of a house, and stay clear of possible gags or gangs of goblins who will gather at the door. Dogs do not understand that the person jumping out at you will not hurt you; they often think they can only help you by acting aggressively. Neither children nor adults in costumes should approach a dog without the owner’s consent.
10. Have fun but think of your dog’s safety. Finally, if you want your dog to be included in Halloween festivities, think about his safety much as you would the safety of a small child. Your dog does not understand Halloween, so he needs you to provide the guidance and safety that you always do.

Pumpkin Bones Recipe

2009-10-28T18:07:00.000-07:00

October 28, 2009

Three Jacks Dog Bakery in Olmsted Falls, Ohio has a wonderful organic recipe sure to please our canine trick-or-treaters this Halloween. If you're too busy to bake these tasty treats, you can always purchase the doggie biscuits online at http://www.3jacksdogbakery.com/.

Ingredients
4 cups organic brown rice
2 organic eggs with shells
3/4 cup organic steel cut oats
1 cup organic canned pumpkin
1 teaspoon organic ground cinnamon
3/4 cup organic low-fat buttermilk
2 teaspoons organic ground rosemary
1 tablespoon organic blackstrap molasses
3/4 teaspoon sea salt
4 tablespoons organic shortening

Preparation
Mix dry ingredients in a large bowl. Mix liquid ingredients in food processor, leaving egg shells in. Combine wet and dry ingredients in bowl. Knead until well-mixed, about five minutes. Roll dough to 1/4-inch thickness on rice flour-covered pastry board. Cut with 1-inch, small-bone-shaped cutter. Bake at 325 degrees for 15 minutes, then for 10 minutes at 300 degrees, then for 10 more minutes at 250 degrees. This recipe makes about 320 pumpkin bones, depending on the size of your cookie cutter. Recipe may be cut in half.

CARING FOR YOUR SENIOR (Entry #3 - "Helping to Sooth Achy Joints")

2009-10-24T18:39:00.000-07:00

October 24, 2009

According to Heidi Booth, DVM, dogs age differently, depending on their size, breed, health and genetic predisposition. In an interview with DogWorld magazine, Booth states, "In general, we consider dogs to be seniors around the age of 7; however, this does vary. Typically, smaller dogs (less than 20 pounds) live longer, not showing their age until 10 to 12 years. Medium-sized dogs (20 - 55 pounds) begin to age at 8 - 10 years; large dogs (55 to 10 pounds) at 6 - 8 years, and giant dogs (100 plus pounds) at age 5. "

Thankfully, Japanese spitzen fall right in between the small to medium size, so they tend to live at least twice as long as the giant breeds. So, when your JS does start to feel her age, one of the things she will probably feel first is an aching in her joints. Just like humans, dogs can suffer from arthritis, which can sometimes be debilitating. And, also like humans, the treatment of the symptoms are similar.

Lisa Hanks, a freelance writer from Newport Beach, California, offers some helpful insight on this topic:

An older dog naturally becomes more stiff and inflexible as its body, muscles and joints deteriorate. Watch your dog closely and identify which actions are difficult for it, then take measures to make them easier.

Achy joints often flare into arthritis. Difficulties standing up, walking on hard floors, jumping on the couch, climbing stairs or going for a walk, may mean arthritis has set in. You might also see a stiff gait and lameness, or grouchiness at being touched on the back or hips.

"Easing your dog's discomfort with soft beds, ramps to go up stairs and adequate room temperatures are a few ways to make movement easier on arthritic dogs," Heidi Booth says. Consider providing a heating pad or self-warming cushion to warm old joints, especially during cold weather.

The best ways to relieve arthritis pain are providing regular exercise and maintaining a healthy weight, as well as using prescribed anti-inflammatories, chondroitin, and other nutraceuticals and supplements. "Newer tools in the battle against arthritis are massage, acupuncture and hydrotherapy," Micah Kohles, DVM of Lincoln Nebraska states, "These can all provide a benefit, but must be initiated under the care of your veterinarian."

Keep your achy, arthritic dog warm and comfy with heated, orthopedic beds or therapeutic blankets. If you must go out in the wet and cold, put a coat or sweater on your dog. Make getting around the house easier by installing ramps to access the couch, bed and car, and by placing nonslip mats on slippery floors.

For advanced arthritis or hip problems that impede your dog's walking ability, invest in a support sling, harness or a rear-end cart. A stroller or bike trailer is a great way to take an impaired dog outside for fresh air. "Some-times dogs become wobbly on their feet, especially their hindquarters, and this can indicate muscle weakness or neurological degeneration." Booth says.

Before my BlackJacks passed away, he was given daily supplements, such as glucosamine with shark cartilage. This has been proven therapeutic for arthritis, and helps to slow it's progression. An occasional injection of an NSAID, such as Adequan, Rimadyl, Etogesic, Metacam, or Deramaxx, also works wonders - especially in cold weather when his joints may hurt slightly more than usual.

Unfortunately, there is no cure for arthritis, so the best we can do is try to treat the symptoms and make our furry loved ones as comfortable as possible.

Can Dogs Get the Swine Flu?

2009-10-14T19:34:00.000-07:00

October 14, 2009

Its all over the news and on everyone's minds - the Swine Flu pandemic. We know that it can be harmful to humans. The question is, can the H1N1 virus be harmful to our furry friends?

There is no clear cut answer, but if there were, it seems the answer would most likely be no.

According to Dr. Mike Richards of Mathews Veterinary Clinic in Mathews, Virginia, "I haven't heard of a case of a dog contracting swine flu, especially in this country," said Dr. Mike Richards. "Influenza research is changing; however, and it is recognized that dogs can get the flu. It is unlikely that a dog will get the swine flu, but there are reported cases of dogs getting the avian flu (bird flu). I would not be surprised to hear of a canine swine flu case eventually."
I was able to find just one report of an unconfirmed case of a dog contracting the H1N1 virus, which unfortunately proved to be fatal. The case took place a few years ago in Taiwan. Again, this case was unconfirmed.

Dr. Janet Tobiassen Crosby, DVM, states that there are two types of influenza viruses: Type A and Type B. The Type A viruses are found in humans and many types of animals, usually strains specific to that species. The type B viruses circulate widely among humans. Dogs and cats do have their own versions of influenza viruses. The canine influenza virus is an influenza Type A, known as the H3N8 virus.

Key Fact about Canine Influenza from the CDC: To date, there is no evidence of transmission of canine influenza virus from dogs to people and there has not been a single reported case of human infection with the canine influenza virus.

The good news is that a company based in Kenilworth, NJ called Intervet/Schering-Plough Animal Health announced in June that they have released the first vaccine for the canine influenza virus. The vaccine has been shown to reduce the incidence and severity of lung lesions, as well as the duration of coughing and viral shedding. It is administered under the skin in two doses, two and four weeks apart, and may be given to dogs that are 6 weeks of age or older.

Of course, in order to avoid spreading any type of virus, care should be always taken to use proper sanitation and personal hygiene in all cases of illness, and especially for the ever-changing influenza viruses.

According to Mohala Johnson of the Cheyenne Dogs Examiner, here is a list of some things you can do to help keep your immune system up to par. After all, if you don't take care of yourself, then who will take care of your dog?

~Wash your hands often
~Cover you nose and mouth if you sneeze or if someone around you does
~Be sure to eat a balanced diet
~Exercise (which you should already be doing with your dog)
~Stay hydrated, drink your fluids especially water, try drinking lemon water its good for your immune system, and you might like it.
~Get a full night sleep
~Take your vitamins, like vitamin C
~There is also a variety of food that you can eat to help you boost your immune system.

So, while dogs may be susceptible to their own version of influenza if not vaccinated, it seems that they are safe from Swine Flu for now, so hopefully this gives you some peace of mind. As always, if you suspect that your dog is sick, please contact your veterinarian directly for an examination and to discuss any questions.

TEACHING BASIC COMMANDS – ENTRY #10 ("Standing Ovation")

2009-10-11T00:01:00.000-07:00

October 11, 2009

This is not something we have taught our dogs to do. However, I have seen Japanese Spitz standing and dancing on their hind legs and it is SO cute! (See dancing Japanese Spitz here: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R-FrINJD1PQ) For those of you who would like to teach you JS how to stand in his/her hind legs, below is a helpful article I found by September Morn, a writer for Dog Fancy magazine.

Lure your dog into a standing position by holding a treat in front of her nose, then moving it straight forward. Stop moving it when your dog stands up, click or praise to mark the behavior and give her the treat as a reward. When luring a stand, position the treat so your dog's muzzle is horizontal. If you move the treat upward your dog will probably sit. If you hold it too low, she may lie down.

After your dog follows a treat lure into a standing position several times, phase ou tthe lure by moving your hand with the same motion, but without holding a treat. When your dog follows your hand and stands, click or praise, and reward with a treat. This becomes the hand signal that means "Stand"

Add a verbal cue, "Stand" or "Stand Up", saying it just before you make the hand signal.

Reduce the use of treats once your dog consistently responds to your hand motion or command.

THE 2010 PUPPY CALENDARS ARE HERE

2009-09-25T10:50:00.000-07:00

September 25, 2009

The 2010 Puppy Calendars, featuring Sweet Samurai's 2009 litter, have arrived! As you can see in the ad below, the calendar contains high-quality, original photos of the puppies from ages 4 weeks - 12 weeks.

The wall calendars are a standard 11"x17" size when opened and are printed on top-quality, heavy weight, gloss stock paper with a sturdy coil bounding.

The cost is $21.99, and a portion of the money from each calendar sold goes to support the Japanese Spitz Rescue. Credit cards are accepted via Paypal.

If you are interested in purchasing a calendar, e-mail your order to SweetSamuraiKennels@gmail.com and be sure to list your preferred method of payment. We only ordered a limited number, so get one now while supplies last!!!

Thunderstruck

2009-09-23T00:01:00.000-07:00

September 23, 2009

Many dogs have a fear of thunderstorms (something my neck of the woods has had an abundance of lately). This fear can be mild or sometimes so severe it is crippling. Every season, many dogs end up in shelters and vet clinics after having escaped or injured themselves during a thunderstorm. The good news is, there are things you can do to help your dog relieve the stress he feels during these frightening events.

The first thing you must realize is that your dog's fears are not irrational. They are valid and must be treated as such. NEVER scold your dog for exhibiting the fear he feels. Do not try to force him to "deal" with or be near what frightens him (in this case - the loud noise). This can backfire and result in a worsening of the fear. Additionally, it is important to note that merely trying to prevent your dog from escaping or destroying things will not properly address the problem. Attending to the symptoms of the anxiety, rather than the anxiety itself can result in your dog increasing the intensity of it’s response or he may find another way to show his fears, such as digging, climbing, jumping, chewing, barking, howling, etc.

Create a safe and predictable environment for your dog. More-than-likely, he already has a place of comfort he likes to go to in order to feel safe during storms. Don't deny him this. However, don't confine him to this area, as this could cause more problems - especially for dogs who need to be "active" to deal with their anxiety. Let your dog come and go as he pleases.

While in the "safe" place, give your dog things that typically make him happy - such as a favorite, high-value food or favorite treats or bones. This can serve as a distraction initially, and eventually, your dog will begin to associate thunder storms with good things.

Dog-appeasing pheromones, which are similar to the pheromones released by nursing mother dogs can also reduce a dog's anxiety during thunderstorms. DogFancy recommends some common ones by Comfort Zone, manufactured by Farnam, and D.A.P., from CEVA Animal Health.

Unfortunately, some dogs are so deathly afraid of thunderstorms that they need meds to be able to cope. If your dog is one of these, consult your veterinarian so that he may prescribe some anti-anxiety drugs.

TEACHING BASIC COMMANDS – ENTRY #9 ("SHAKE")

2009-09-19T00:01:00.000-07:00

September 19, 2009

Until this point, we have only discussed basic commands associated with teaching your dog manners. Sometimes, though, it's fun to teach commands known as tricks. Teaching your dog to shake hands is one of the most common tricks you can teach, though it can be difficult for the little guy to learn. In order to teach this one, you'll have to break it down into simple steps.

Get your dog to lift his paw off of the floor - mark the behavior with a treat.
Have your dog touch your hand with his paw - mark the behavior with a treat.
Have your dog lift his paw even higher to touch your hand - mark the behavior with a treat.
Add the verbal cue, "SHAKE".

If you take this one slowly and stay patient, your dog will be shaking hands on command in no time at all!

Preparing Your Dog For Autumn Changes

2009-09-16T17:26:00.000-07:00

September 16, 2009

As we savor the last days of summer, we also plan for fall's changes. We take the kids shopping for back-to-school clothes and supplies. We mentaly prepare ourselves for getting back to the grind at work. But we also need to prepare our dogs.

Because come Autumn, your dog's life often changes, too. The kids go back to school and aren't around for extended playtime. Young adults leave for college and can't interact with her at all. Older adults may be preoccupied with missing the kids or getting back to work themselves. The result can be a lonely dog who barks, forgets her housetraining, becomes destructive, or simply acts depressed.

A little planning beforehand can forestall such trauma. Here's how:

Change caregivers. If your dog's main caregiver is a family member who soon won't be around to do that, start making the switch to an adult or sibling who will remain behind. Begin by having the primary caregiver take your dog for two walks a day, with teh new caregiver doing the rest. By the time the primary caregiver departs, the new caregiver should already have taken over.
Maintain routines. Although your dog's caregiver may change, her routine shouldn't. She should eat, walk, and play at the same times with her new caregiver.
Keep active. Trainers often say that a tired dog is a good dog - for good reason. A dog who has gotten some vigorous exercise is too pooped to get into trouble. Give your dog at least 20 minutes of aerobic activity daily, but don't do such activity in the middle of a hot day.
Monitor carefully. If your dog quits eating or acts lethargic as you make these adjustments, don't assume she's unhappy with what's going on. She could be physically ill. Take her to the veterinarian if such behavior continues for more than a day or two.

*Courtesy of DogFancy (Oct.2009 issue) / Written by Susan McCullough

A Weather Forecast . . . For Your Dog?

2009-09-12T00:01:00.000-07:00

September 12, 2009

I recently read about this neat website hosted by The Weather Channel that lets you check tells you the most optimal time to walk your dog, based upon the forecast for that day, your pet's age and coat type. It also tells you the mosquito activity levels in your area, tells you the number of calories you will burn while walking your little buddy, and offers a map that tracks the local flea activity. Check it out at www.weather.com/pet

Disaster Plan

2009-09-09T00:01:00.000-07:00

September 9, 2009

So, here we go. Another hurricane season is upon us. Every hurricane season, I'm reminded of the disasterous Katrina, which unfortunately resulted in the death and displacement of many abandoned pets.

There are many kinds of disasters that can strike. Some personal tragedies / disasters require that you leave your home suddenly, resulting in the need for a pet sitter. Other disasters may require you to evacuate your home entirely. Hopefully, in instances like this, you will be able to take your animals with you. The sad truth is that you may not always be in a position to do this. In the event that a tragedy occurrs, it is best to take the Boy Scout moto and BE PREPARED. Make plans now to avoid being disorganized when the pressure is on. The advice in this blog entry will help you do just that.

DISASTER SUPPLY & CHECK LIST

Make a "Disaster Supply Corner." Dedicate a corner of your home, basement, garage, or attic, for these emergency supplies.

- Crates, cages, or containers, for evacuating every pet in your household
- Bedding for crates
- Vehicle with room for all crates, food, water, and personal gear. Responsible pet owners will always own one vehicle that is large enough for evacuating pets.
- Collapsible pen or temporary fencing
- Cat litter box and extra litter (for cat owners)
- Leashes and collars (with ownership and rabies tags) for every pet
- Toys and treats
- Water for drinking, 2 gallons for each person and pet
- Pet food (sealed for storage) in plastic bins, enough for two weeks
- Bleach (plain household) to treat drinking water (12 drops per gallon)
- Dropper to measure bleach into water
- Instructions for pet care and feeding
- Pet medications
- Veterinary records
- Photos of all pets showing identifying marks loaded to CD and printed, and vaccination forms
- List of pet-friendly lodging options and phone numbers
- First aid kit
- Flashlight and extra batteries

PET SURVIVAL PLAN

Make an Indoor/Outdoor Pet Shelter in Your Home. Turn your home into an indoor/outdoor pet shelter so that they can survive without you for at least 2 weeks.

Advance Preparations
- Microchip your pets, so they may be identified if you are separated from them.
- Make photographs of your pets for identification, including views of important identifying markings, and keep these with your important papers.
- Ask your pet sitter or a neighbor to call you immediately wherever you are, if a disaster threatens or occurs, any time of day or night.
- If you receive such a call while you are away, call your Reciprocal Foster to make pet care plans.

Before Leaving the Pets
- Remove one entrance door from its hinges (store it on the floor in a distant room) to allow at-will, safe, and permanent access to the outdoors. The door should not be exposed to prevailing winds. Yes, there are risks involved with leaving your home open. If you can, take your pets with you instead.
- Open all windows to allow air circulation in hot climates.
- Post a large sign inside a window that reads: PLEASE RESCUE OUR PETS, if you are uncertain about whether you can return within 2 weeks.
- Post a list TO RESCUERS near the inside entrance that includes: Your contact information; Your reciprocal foster contact information; All pets by name and type, and any medical needs; state that you will make attempts to find and claim your pets.
- Fill all bathtubs and sinks with clean water. Fill buckets with clean water. Fill big plastic tote bins with clean water. Distribute clean water throughout the house. In hot weather, dehydration can kill in 2 to 3 days, especially young, ill, or elderly pets!
- Treat the drinking water so that the standing water doesn't develop bacterial infestations: 16 drops of plain household chlorine bleach per gallon of water.
- Distribute all of your emergency pet food in pans, buckets, and bowls, at least a month's supply.
- Distribute pet toys and favorite beds or blankets.
- Clean all cat litter boxes and fill with litter.
- Turn furniture over that you don't want pets climbing on (list these).
- Unplug all outlets throughout the house.
- Turn off gas or heating oil connections.
- Turn off water mains to the house.

Return within 2 weeks without fail.

Your pets are your responsibility; pray that they will be alive and waiting for you.

Reality Check: This is not the time to worry about poop and pee. If your pets survive the disaster and the aftermath, be grateful.

For more resources on the topic of rescue of animals in emergencies, including preparedness information, check out this page: Emergency Animal Rescue Service (EARS

*The information provided above is courtesy of SunbearSquad.Org.

** Picture courtesy of National Geographic - Dogs awaiting rescue in Mississippi after Katrina

A Tribute on this blackest of Tuesdays

2009-09-01T19:00:00.000-07:00

September 1, 2009

My best buddy, my black lab, BlackJacks, just passed away. Via con Dios, little buddy. You've been a constant in my life for 15 years now. I miss you so much already.

“He is my other eyes that can see above the clouds, my other ears that hear above the winds. He is the part of me that can reach out into the sea. He has told me a thousand times over that I am his reason for being; by the way he rests against my leg; by the way he thumps his tail at my smallest smile; by the way he shows his hurt when I leave without taking him. (I think it makes him sick with worry when he is not along care for me.) When I am wrong, he is delighted to forgive me. When I am angry, he clowns to make me smile. When I am happy, he is joy unbounded. When I am a fool, he ignores it. When I succeed, he brags. Without him, I am only another man. With him, I am all-powerful. He is loyalty itself. He has taught me the meaning of devotion. With him, I know a secret comfort and a private peace. He has brought me understanding where before I was ignorant. His head on my knee can heal my human hurts. His presence by my side is protection against my fears of dark and unknown things. He has promised to wait for me…whenever…wherever - in case I need him. And, I expect I will -- as I always have. He is just my dog.” - Gene Hill

FIRST AID IN THE FIELD (Entry #7 - "Making a First Aid Kit")

2009-08-26T00:01:00.001-07:00

August 26, 2009

In order to treat field injuries, you should always be prepared with a first aid kit. It doesn't have to be a large, burdensome kit. In fact, the majority of what you need to will fit into a small Ziploc bag.

The following items are what should be included in any basic first aid kit for your pet, and will come in handy if an emergency were to arise:

Scissors
Tweezers
Thermometer
Hydrogen peroxide
Ophthalmic antibiotic ointment
Vetrap cotton bandage wrap
Elastic wrap, such as Elastikon or Vetrap
Waterproof wrap, such as Wet Pruf
Bottled water

Remember, it is a good idea to talk with your veterinarian to learn about the specific items and medications that will be best for your outdoor excursion.

Dog Camps in the USA

2009-08-22T00:01:00.001-07:00

August 22, 2009

This month's issue of DogFancy contains an interesting article about summer camps that are specifically designed to accomodate families and their canine companions. The camps provide a variety of dog-friendly activities including agility, lure coursing, and dock jumping. Many camps also provide activities for humans, such as dog training and creative classes like dog treat making and spinning dog fur. Being dog camps, there are, of course, many activites a dog can do along with his human counterpart. Treasure / Scaventer Hunts, as well as Water Rescue are just two examples.

This sounds like a great idea! I had no idea these camps existed. For dog and outdoor lovers, what better way to incorporate your pooch into your vacation plans?

Here is a list of some canine camps, as provided by DogFancy:

Camp Barking Hills, Hackettstown, NJ (open spring) ph: 908-996-9911, website: http://www.campbarkinghills.com/
Camp Dogwood, Ingleside, IL (open spring & fall) ph: 312-458-9549, website: http://www.campdogwood.com/
Camp Gone to the Dogs, Vermont (open summer & fall) ph: 888-364-3293, website: http://www.campgonetothedogs.com/
Camp Unleashed, Becket, MA (open summer & fall) ph: 518-781-0446, website: http://www.campunleashed.com/
Camp Winnaribbun, Stateline, NV (open summer & fall) ph: 775-348-8412, website: http://www.campw.com/
Dog Days of Wisconsin, Almond, WI (open summer) ph: 800-226-7436, website: http://www.dogcamp.com/
Dog Scout Camp, St. Helen, MI (open summer) Fort Worth, TX (open winter) ph: 989-389-2000, website: http://www.dogscouts.com/
Dog Sports Camp, Oregon (open summer) ph: 541-826-6592, website: http://www.pawsitivelybullydogtraining.com/
The Dog's Camp, Swannanoa, NC (open fall) ph: 828-649-3691, website: http://www.thedogscamp.com/

FIRST AID IN THE FIELD (Entry #6 - "Stomach Torsion / Bloat")

2009-08-19T00:01:00.001-07:00

August 19, 2009

Stomach Torsion, also known as Bloat, occurs when the stomach becomes twisted, causing intestinal gases to build up. The condition is very painful and can be fatal if not treated right away. It is similar to having a balloon in your dog's belly that keeps expanding. It is not entirely known what causes this condition, though suspected culprits include certain types of food large amounts of food, and/or heavy exercise. Though it is uncommon for this to occur in the field, there is still a possibility so I felt it best to discuss this in our First Aid In The Field series.

Bloat is treated by inserting a stomach tube through the throat and into the stomach to release the trapped gas. More severe cases require surgery. If your dog looks bloated, acts restless, tries to vomit unsuccessfully, has excessive salivation and has labored breathing, get him to a vet immediately. If you are in a place where a veterinarian is not available, you will need to try to relieve the pressure yourself. This can be done by inserting a large bore needle into your dog's abdomen - the area right behind the ribs while your dog is in a standing position. If possible, you really need to contact a veterinarian before trying this procedure, as it is very risky. THIS PROCEDURE SHOULD ONLY BE DONE AS A LAST RESORT TO SAVE YOUR DOG'S LIFE.

If you feel your dog may be prone to Stomach Torsion, you should take precautionary measures. Feed your dog smaller meals twice-a-day, rather than one large meal. Also, refrain from letting your dog exercise after meals. This condition typically occurs when dogs are overly excited, not eating regularly, or are out of their normal circumstances.

Tax Deductible Pet Care Expenses

2009-08-17T00:01:00.000-07:00

August 17, 2009

Congressman Thaddeus McCotter of Michigan (http://mccotter.house.gov/HoR/MI11/Home/) has introduced a new act called the HAPPY Act - The Humanity and Pets Partnered Through The Years act (http://thomas.loc.gov/cgi-bin/query/z?c111:H.R.3501).

Based on the fact that more than 60% of households have pets, and because those pets contribute to our well-being, this bill, if passed, would allow pet owners to take a tax decuctible for up to $3500 in pet care expenses. The wording on the bill states that…

qualified pet care expenses means amounts paid in connection with providing care (including veterinary care) for a qualified pet other than any expense in connection with the acquisition of the qualified pet.

The Pet Industry Joint Advisory Council (http://www.pijac.org/_documents/us_hr_3501_happy_act.pdf) is asking people to contact their representative and encourage them to consider the bill favorably. See their website to read more, including information on how to contact your representative.

Thanks to PetSit USA for providing the above information.

CARING FOR YOUR SENIOR (Entry #2 - "Doggie Dementia")

2009-08-15T00:01:00.001-07:00

August 15, 2009

A dog is considered to be a senior citizen at age 7. And just like senior humans, senior dogs can start having mental "slips" as they get older. This is known as Doggie Dementia. Here are some signs to watch for:

Changes in sleeping-waking patterns
Aimless wandering, pacing or circling
Uncharacteristic house soiling
Changes in relationships with family
Whining or inappropriate barking
Getting lost in familiar surroundings
Unresponsiveness to known commands
Unusual restlessness
Uncharacteristic anxiety (separation anxiety, fearfulness)

Evidence of this cognitive dysfunction syndrome is made by process of elimination by your veterinarian, as it is impossible to test directly for this condition except by autopsy of the brain. Your vet may first test for blindness, urinary tract infection, or kidney disease in this elimination process.

If your vet does determine that your dog suffers from Doggie Dementia, he may prescribe Anipryl, which can help reduce the symptoms. However, there are some things you can do at home to reduce the symptoms, as well. Dogs who suffer from dementia do best when you follow a strict routine and provide regular age-appropriate exercise. Antioxidants, nutrient-rich food, and supplements & nutraceuticals can also benefit seniors. But most importantly, keep your dog involved in life.

TEACHING BASIC COMMANDS – ENTRY #8 ("WATCH ME")

2009-08-12T00:01:00.001-07:00

August 12, 2009

If you don't have your dog's attention, it is impossible to give him commands he already knows, nor will you be able to teach him new commands. This is why it is important to teach your dog the command "Watch Me". In a location with many distractions, this command definitely comes in handy. To teach your dog this command, simply follow these easy steps:

When your dog is looking elsewhere, say your dog's name followed by the words "WATCH ME".

When he looks at you, reward him with a treat.

Gradually increase the time by withholding the treat for several seconds.

Practice this command often - every time you want to get your dog's attention.

Some dogs are a little easier to teach this command than others. For those four-legged friends that don't quite understand, try using the following method:

Say your dog's name while, at the same time, holding a treat in front of his nose.

Slowly move the treat from the front of your dog's nose to your face while saying the words "WATCH ME".

Hold the treat between your eyes for several seconds.

Reward him with the treat.

Once your dog is consistently following the treat, try luring him without the treat using the method previously discussed.

Once your dog understands this command, it will be easier for you to start working with him to carry out your commands in more public areas.

Back to School Blues

2009-08-05T00:01:00.001-07:00

August 5, 2009

Your kids have had a great time this summer playing with the family pooch. It's a given that the family pooch has had just as much, if not more, fun playing with the kids. So, how will they handle the inevitable separation from each other when the kids go back to school? Dog Fancy has provided some great tips to help the two-legged and four-legged family members ease into this transition.

TIPS FOR YOUR DOG

After a fun summer spent with the kids, your puppy may whine, cry or even scratch at the door when the children go back to school. Help her accept this sudden separation without anxiety by following a few guidelines.

Puppies take comfort in routine. If the start of a new school year will change your puppy's normal schedule, start the transition two weeks before school begins. This prevents several harried mornings dealing with an upset puppy while trying to get the kids out of the house.

When their people act upset, puppies get upset. To prevent tearful goodbyes, allow children /puppy playtime before the kids get dressed. As leaving time draws near, put the puppy in her crate and offer a chew bone or a stuffable toy filled with treats. This should help keep her distracted and happy while the children walk out the door.

- Chris Cox-Evick

TIPS FOR YOUR KIDS

STAY CALM - If your kids say lots of tearful goodbyes and make a big deal about leaving, the family dog will get nervous, and it may make her more upset. Instead, your kids should give the dog a nice pat on the head and calmly tell her goodbye. Then, leave out a favorite toy for her to play with.

MAKE EXTRA TIME - Your kids are going to be busy with homework and chores, but they should take a few extra minutes to give their dog some attention after they've been home from school for a little while. A quick walk or a fun game will keep them bonded all year long.

TEACH THE DOG SOMETHING NEW - Since your kids are learning lots of stuff in school, why not let them teach the family dog a few things? Can she sit, stay, and roll over? Use free weekend time to work on some fun tricks, but don't forget tasty treats to reward the good little student.

- Katy French

* The above is a picture of Ju-Ju taken on 8/1/09

FIRST AID IN THE FIELD (Entry #5 - "Making an Impromptu Dog Muzzle")

2009-08-01T00:01:00.000-07:00

August 1, 2009

Even the most mild-mannered canine can bite under duress or painful circumstances. If your dog is in a great deal of pain or begins to act aggressively, muzzle him before attempting first aid. However, please note that a dog that is vomiting, having breathing difficulties, or suffering from heatstroke or hypothermia should NOT be muzzled.

Any number of objects can be used as a muzzle, including a length of rope or gauze, a leash or even shoelaces.

Start by tying a loop large enough to fit around your dog's muzzle.

Slip the loop around your dog's muzzle midway between its eyes and nose.
Tighten the loop so that your dog's jaws are closed. Take care not to bind your dog's jaws too tightly.
Cross the ends of the muzzle beneath your dog's jaw.
Bring the end of the string or laces back behind your dog's ears.
Tie with a double knot. This muzzle should be removable by slipping it back over the dog's ears.

If you are concerned that your dog can't breathe, tie a knot similar to a shoelace bow, which can be quickly released. A dog that shows difficulty breathing should NOT be muzzled.

* The preceding courtesy of DogWorld magazine - April, 2009

Ruff Ruff Yogurt Pops

2009-07-29T00:01:00.000-07:00

July 29, 2009

I recently found a recipe for a frozen summertime sweet treat that our dogs absolutely love. The recipe is from Annie Siegmann, owner of Ruff Ruff Bakery in Playa Del Ray, California.

RUFF RUFF YOGURT POPS
32 ounces vanilla or plain yogurt
1 - 2 ripe bananas (or 1/2 lb frozen cherries or blueberries)
2 tablespoons peanut butter
2 tablespoons honey (optional)
1 teaspoon cinnamon
1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract (optional)

Mash bananas, then mix in the remaining ingredients. Spoon mixture into an ice cube tray and freeze. Place one or two cubes in your dog's bowl for her to lick.

This is a great way to help your fluffy friend to cool down this summer!

TEACHING BASIC COMMANDS – ENTRY #7 (Combining Commands)

2009-07-25T00:01:00.000-07:00

July 25, 2009

As you and your dog continue to progress together in your basic training, you will need to begin combining some commands. For example, some puppies, when learning the "Down" command, might forget how to "Sit". This is often caused by mistakes made by you, the trainer. The natural progression is to use the command "Down" immediately after the "Sit" command. If you do this too often, your dog will start to anticipate your next command.

There are two ways you can prevent this from happening. First, keep practicing the individual commands, as well as the combined commands. Second, when combining commands, mix and match the commands that you use. In other words, instead of always asking for a "Down" after asking for a "Sit", sometimes ask your dog to "Shake" after a "Sit". You could also ask your dog for a "Down" first, and then ask for a "Sit".

If you ask your little guy for one command and he gives you another (you ask for "Sit" and he gives you a "Down"), don't reward him. Instead, lure him back into position for the command you gave. Then reward him.

Combining "Come" with "Sit" is a good way to avoid some potential problems. You don't want your dog to come running to you only to jump up on you with muddy paws. Or, even worse, snatch the treat out of your hand and run away. If you've been consistently working with your dog (practicing at least 15 minutes per day with one new command per week), he should reliably sit and/or come when called nearly every time. To combine these two commands, just follow these steps:

You should be in a standing position.
Say your dog's name followed by the command "Come". (Use the same technique you learned when first teaching the "Come" command.
Next, cue your puppy to sit with either the verbal command or the hand signal.
Reward the behavior by giving your puppy a treat.

Wait a few seconds before you give your pooch a treat. You want him to stay sitting in front of you until you tell him differently. It won't take long before your puppy will automatically sit each time he comes to you.

As discussed many times in this series, it is important to make the training fun for your dog. One way you can do this is by turning the training session into a game. Our dogs love to play hide and seek. We play this game by combining three basic commands - "Sit", "Stay" and "Come". First, I put the dogs in a "Sit-Stay" position. Then I will hide somewhere in the house. Once I find a hiding spot, I yell out the word "Come". The dogs will run around the house trying to find me. Once they succeed in finding me, I reward them with a treat. Be sure to keep the game challenging - hide in various parts of the house. The better your dogs become at the game, the more challenging your hiding place can be. Geisha, Sami & Ju-Ju absolutely love this game and never seem to tire of it.

As you can imagine, there are many advantages to combining and practicing commands. After all, practice makes perfect. Keep it up and pretty soon, you'll have another happy and well-mannered addition to your family.

FIRST AID IN THE FIELD (Entry #4 - "Heatstroke")

2009-07-22T00:01:00.000-07:00

July 18, 2009

When it occurs: Dogs can fall victim to heatstroke for a number of reasons, including prolonged exposure to hot weather, activity in humid climates, being left in vehicles with rising temperatures and insufficient water consumption.

What experts say about prevention: To keep your dog from experiencing heatstroke, use good judgment and carry plenty of water. It is a good idea to carry just as much water for each of your dogs as you do for yourself. If in a heated environment or a situation such as one noted above, make sure your dogs drink water every 15 - 20 minutes. You can also use the water to cool your dogs down by pouring it over their heads and down their backs.

How serious is it? Heatstroke is a serious condition that can be fatal. It is estimated that two out of every twelve dogs that suffer from heatstroke will die.

How to treat the condition: If your dog is suffering from heatstroke, you'll notice it panting heavily. It may become wobbly while walking and unresponsive. Some dogs vomit and become unconscious. Before seeking medical treatment, first cool your dog down. Keep your dog in the shade and wet it down with water until its temperature reaches 103 degrees Fahrenheit.

Give your dog frequent, small sips of water. A commonly recommended amount is one pint per 50 pounds of body weight in 30 minutes to avoid vomiting and vascular disease due to overhydration, withholding water only if your dog vomits.

If your dog has not recovered within an hour, take it to a veterinarian immediately. Check that its lips and gums look normal. Your dog has recovered when its temperature, respiration, gait and alertness have returned to normal.

* The above information courtesy of DogWorld Magazine - April, 2009

CARING FOR YOUR SENIOR (Entry #1 - "Emergency Signs")

2009-07-18T00:01:00.000-07:00

July 15, 2009

The oldest dog in our home is BlackJacks, our lovable 15 year old black Labrador. Seven years ago he crossed over into canine seniorhood. Senior dogs require a different kind of care than younger dogs and it is important to maintain regular veterinary checkups. An older dog is more likely to develop illnesses, injuries and other age-related health problems such as diabetes, kidney failure and arthritis.
It may be a little harder to know when to seek immediate veterinary care for your senior dog. Be sure to watch for changes in his/her activity level, eating or drinking habits, breathing, and behavior. These could be indications of problems above and beyond normal aging, including diabetes, liver failure, hypothyroidism and Cushing's disease. Lisa Hanks, writer for DogWorld magazine provides the following list of symptoms to look out for:

Blood in feces or urine
Collapsing or sudden weakness
Confusion
Coughing after activity
Difficulty eliminating or urinating
Elimination problems, such as diarrhea or accidents, lasting for more than 24 hours
Excessive panting
Excessive thirst
Failure to eat
Hair loss or persistent skin sores
Hearing loss
Increased eating without weight gain
Increased lethargy or naps
Lameness lasting more than five days
Personality changes
Retreating from family activities
Seizures
Staggering or lack of coordination
Sudden blindness or vision loss
Sudden change in urination or urine leakage
Sudden weight loss or gain
Vomiting that lasts more than 24 hours

If your senior dog exhibits any of this behavior, contact your veterinarian. If your dog is ill or has a poorly working immune system, Lisa Hanks also suggests reducing the frequency of vaccinations or even eliminating them altogether.

If you think something is off, it is much better to contact your vet rather than doing nothing or trying to "wait it out". The sooner you can treat your dog, the sooner he/she will become healthy again.

FIRST AID IN THE FIELD (Entry #3 - "Snake Bite")

2009-07-15T00:01:00.001-07:00

July 5, 2009

Now I'm not a big fan of snakes and I know I'm not alone in this. However, if you are a frequent hiker or camper, it is a very good idea to become familiar with the snakes common to your region. For example, the deadliest pit viper in North America is the Western Diamondback rattlesnake. It resides primarily in the southwestern parts of the U.S. Other snakes to look out for include Coral snakes, Copperheads and Cottonmouths. It is important to be able to recognize these snakes in case one bites you or your dog, as you will need to be able to quickly assess the danger your dog may be in.

As with anything, it is much better to prevent a problem from occurring rather than correcting the problem after it occurs. Dogs often attempt to investigate snakes and end up getting bitten. Some common places snakes can be found are on the ground, in trees, in and under logs, or in rodent burrows. One way to avoid snake bites is to train your dog to stay away from these areas. Consider taking a snake-aversion class if you live in an area known to be inhabited by dangerous snakes.

Unfortunately, no matter how many precautions you may take, you could still find yourself in a snakebite-related situation. It is best to be prepared. Randy Acker, DVM and author of Field Guide to Dog First Aid (Wilderness Adventure Press, 1994), suggests talking to your veterinarian before taking a walk in a poisonous snake-infested area. Your vet can provide a combination of steroids, antihistamines and antibiotics that can save your dog's life if he/she is bitten.

Recognize the Signs
If you suspect your dog has been bitten by a snake, you should treat this as a medical emergency - even if you don't know the type of snake that did the biting. When a snake releases venom into a wound, you may see fang marks, swelling and possibly a blackening at the bite site. Your dog may also exhibit bleeding, lethargy, rapid breathing and an irregular heartbeat within hours of the bite. If the snake bites an artery or a vein, your dog could die within hours.

What NOT To Do

Do NOT give your dog aspirin after a snakebite. This anti-inflammatory drug may contribute to bleeding problems.
Do NOT make an incision over the snakebite and attempt to suck out the venom. Veterinarians agree that this method does nothing to slow down or prevent venom from entering the body. You will only succeed in wasting valuable time.

Treatment
Seek medical attention as soon as possible! If you feel you cannot reach a vet within the hour, here are some steps you can take while in the field to buy some time:

Decrease the absorption of the venom by keeping your dog as calm as possible and minimizing his/her activity. If possible, carry your dog to your destination.
Use a towel to apply cool water to the wound. This will help cause basal constriction and decrease the venom absorption.
Give your dog antihistamines. Hopefully you have already consulted with your vet regarding the proper dosage. If using Benadryl, a good rule-of-thumb is one milligram per pound of dog.
Apply a thin coat of antibiotic ointment to lessen the infection. This will also need to be obtained by your vet ahead of time.

Even after you have completed the above steps, you will need to get your dog to a vet immediately. Call ahead of time to make sure the facility has antivenin. If they do not, a staff member should be able to refer you to another facility.

TEACHING BASIC COMMANDS – ENTRY #6 (“COME”)

2009-07-11T00:01:00.000-07:00

July 11, 2009

This is one of the most important commands you can teach a dog. Imagine you and your dog are at the dog park when suddenly a danger is present and you need your dog to come to you right away in order to keep him/her safe. Your dog immediately coming to you when commanded to do so can mean the difference between life and death.

Start somewhere that has little or no distractions.
Attach a long line (20 feet or so) to your dog's collar.
Have a friend or family member occupy your dog while you go out the distance of the leash, or put your dog in a "Stay" position.
Excitedly say your dog's name, followed by the command, "COME"!
Reward your dog when he/she gets to you. Use several treats to encourage him to stay put.
If your dog doesn't respond to this command, reel him/her in until the dog reaches you. Then give the reward. Eventually your dog will put two and two together.

An important thing to remember when training this command is to ALWAYS reward your dog for coming to you when called because this will help to ensure that he/she will come to you every single time. Even if you don't typically use treats as a reward, you should use them when using this command.

Also, remember that your dog doesn't speak human, so unless you are absolutely positive your dog will respond when you use the command "Come", don't use it. Find another word to use for the times that you're not sure. Words like "Cookie" or "Car Ride" might work. Don't practice this without the leash either. If your dog is not yet reliable, the leash will protect him/her from danger.

Here is a picture of Sami - Coming when Called.

Should Food be Used As a Reward?

2009-07-08T00:01:00.000-07:00

July 8, 2009

If your Japanese Spitz are like mine, they LOVE treats. Even our most stubborn little girl, Ju-Ju, is more willing to carry out a command if I am holding a treat. However, it may not be a good idea to always use treats as a motivator. A good alternative may be using your dog's favorite toy. If the little guy craves praise and affection, this can be equally effective, as well.

Of course, there are times when using food as a reward is appropriate. Terry Long, a certified professional dog trainer in Long Beach, California and writer for Dog World magazine, suggests you ask yourself the following questions:

Is your dog overweight and underperforming?
Does using a toy as a reward interfere with the behavior you're training?
Is your dog not toy-motivated in all the situations or locations you need a viable reward?
Do you need to reward quickly and repeatedly without interrupting the flow of the behavior?
Does your dog have an on-its-own-time attitude that you want to change?
Are you finding that you are using more punishment in your training?
Is your dog's performance dull or unenthusiastic?

If you said "yes" to one or more of these questions, the use of food training might be a good strategy for you. After all, food is convenient, doesn't require a lot of space and can be easily delivered.

Used strategically, food is a powerful motivator. Nevertheless, it is important to avoid excess weight gain, for your dog's good health. To ensure that you don't squander this precous commodity, use the following treat pay scale. Rate food rewards from the least to most desirable. The more difficult teh behavior, the tastier the treat!

Kibble
Healthy cereal, such as Cheerios
Tiny crunchy treats
Dried jerky
Sausage roll
Hot dogs
Meatballs
Cheese
Chicken
Steak

Keep in mind, the treats should be cut into small pieces. Too much of a good thing is never a good thing . . .

Sweet Samurai Japanese Spitz

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Helping Your Pet Adjust to New Situations (Entry #3 - Getting Along Like Cats & Dogs)

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Helping Your Pet Adjust to New Situations (Entry #2 - The Moving Blues)

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The Benefits of Feeding Yogurt

The 4-1-1 on Heartworm Disease

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