Yea! Puppies are here! This is a puppycam for our 2009 litter, born April 4th. We will broadcast the puppycam live from about 7 a.m - 7 p.m. CST. A recording is made of each broadcast, so during the times that we are not live, you will be able to view what happened during the day by simply watching the recorded video. At times, you may be asked for a password. If so, just type in the word "scrabble" and you should be good-to-go.
I just love puppies! Don't you!?!!!
Happy Birthday Puppy!
Written May 1, 2009
We are approaching the first birthday for our very first litter here at Sweet Samurai Japanese Spitz. In honor of Izzy, Yuki, Yoshi, Sasuke, and Kona, I thought I would blog about how to throw a birthday party for your pet.
First and foremost, every birthday party should have a birthday cake. The following receipe is a simple one that your furry friends are sure to love:
INGREDIENTS:
1 cup white or whole wheat flour
1 teaspoon baking soda
1/4 cup peanut butter
1/4 cup cooking oil
1 cup shredded carrots
1 teaspoon vanilla
1/3 cup honey (optional)
1 egg
DIRECTIONS:
Mix the dry ingredients. Ad the remaining ingredients and mix quickly. Bake in a greased ring mold at 350 degrees for 40 minutes. You may frost this cake with low fat cottage cheese and decorate with some carrot pieces. Store in the refrigerator. (Dogs will eat this without the honey added.).
Next, you will need to decide whether you want to celebrate with just a few intimate friends and family members in your home, or if you would like to invite a group of human and their canine companions to your party. Either way, you're going to need some games. Dog-Birthday-Party.com provides a few ideas:
Chase the Frisbee. This is one of the simplest dog party games, that requires a "stylish" throwing action from your human guests! Yep, you've guessed it, they have to throw the frisbee for one of your doggie guests to bring back. It's a good idea to have 2 or 3 frisbee's on the go...to keep the dogs from squabblin'!!
Find the Toy. Get a small cardboard box, cover the outside with doggie gift wrapping paper or have a couple of plastic waste bins and fill them with doggie toys. Put them somewhere on view so your doggie guests can find them... they will play for hours!!
Make your own Dog Throw. Here's a dog toy that's a great addition to the dog party games. It is easy to make and can even be used to throw in the park later. You'll need an old pair of nylons and a tennis ball. Then cut the top off your nylons so that you are left with just the two separate legs. Take one of the legs and push a tennis ball down into the "toe" end. Repeat the process with your remaining nylon leg to make it stronger, with two layers of stocking over the tennis ball. Tie a knot as close as you can to the tennis ball (to stop it falling out!) and tie four or five more knots along the length of the stocking, for doggie teeth to grip!
Backyard Dog Agility Course. Here's how to make some obstacles for your backyard dog agility course complete with jumps, a tunnel and a hoop of fire! Needless to say, there's no flames involved! We just used red coloured card instead, a much safer option for your pet!
What you'll need is cardboard boxes, cardboard tubes, a hula hoop, colored paint, paint brushes, scissors, colored pieces of card and glue or sticky tape. Then you are ready to start making the agility course.
To make 2 jumps, you'll need 4 cardboard boxes and 1 broom handle (cut in half) Make sure the cardboard boxes are the same height. Cut a hole in the side of each box (this is where your tube will slide in) and paint the boxes to look like bricks. Try adding red stripes to the broom handle and hang some strips of paper from the bar, to stop the guests from 'cheating' and just running underneath. Once everything is dry, insert the broom handle into the holes in each box and your jumps are now ready for action!
To make a "daredevil" hoop of fire, you'll need a hoop, some textas and coloured pieces of card. Cut out flame shapes from yellow and orange card stock and attach them to your hoop with glue or sticky tape. Better still, cut some orange paper into 2" strips and fix them at the top of the hoop so they hang down about halfway.
To make a tunnel, you'll need cardboard boxes. Open out a cardboard box, so you can see all the way through it and paint to look like a brick tunnel or paint green to look like a hill.
Now it's dog party games time, so let's get ready to set up your course. You could have a jump, then a tunnel, followed by another jump and then the hoop of fire, for the grand finale at your special dog birthday party!
What you'll need is cardboard boxes, cardboard tubes, a hula hoop, colored paint, paint brushes, scissors, colored pieces of card and glue or sticky tape. Then you are ready to start making the agility course.
To make 2 jumps, you'll need 4 cardboard boxes and 1 broom handle (cut in half) Make sure the cardboard boxes are the same height. Cut a hole in the side of each box (this is where your tube will slide in) and paint the boxes to look like bricks. Try adding red stripes to the broom handle and hang some strips of paper from the bar, to stop the guests from 'cheating' and just running underneath. Once everything is dry, insert the broom handle into the holes in each box and your jumps are now ready for action!
To make a "daredevil" hoop of fire, you'll need a hoop, some textas and coloured pieces of card. Cut out flame shapes from yellow and orange card stock and attach them to your hoop with glue or sticky tape. Better still, cut some orange paper into 2" strips and fix them at the top of the hoop so they hang down about halfway.
To make a tunnel, you'll need cardboard boxes. Open out a cardboard box, so you can see all the way through it and paint to look like a brick tunnel or paint green to look like a hill.
Now it's dog party games time, so let's get ready to set up your course. You could have a jump, then a tunnel, followed by another jump and then the hoop of fire, for the grand finale at your special dog birthday party!
Now, of course, you want to make sure that your two-legged guests are not forgotten. They will need to be fed and watered just like the four-legged guests they followed to the party. Keeping with the dog-theme, why not be creative instead of sticking with the same old boring party food.
A) Make bone-shaped sandwiches by using a cookie cutter; B) Make mini hot-dog rolls; C) Make a separate, bone-shaped birthday cake for the two-legged guests to eat.
A) Make bone-shaped sandwiches by using a cookie cutter; B) Make mini hot-dog rolls; C) Make a separate, bone-shaped birthday cake for the two-legged guests to eat.
Finally, here are some tips to help make your dog's birthday party a successful one:
1) When determining who to invite, be realistic about how many dogs you can handle. A good rule of thumb would be to invite immediate family first, extended family next, and then friends and neighbors. Try to choose dogs that your birthday pooch plays with on a regular basis. This is not necessarily the best time to introduce new dogs to your little friend.
2) While considering the first tip, you will also need to determine the location - which will more-than-likely be based upon the number of guests and dogs you invite. For a very large party, you might prefer a public park - this way the dogs can stretch their legs in comfort.
3) Determine whether small children should be invited. Since small children often do not know how to act around dogs, more strict supervision may be needed.
4) Make sure you always have a doggie first-aid kit on hand. You may also want to obtain the names and numbers of everyone's veterinarians. Additionally, be sure to stock up on lots of clean-up materials (baggies, cleaning spray, paper towels, etc.).
5) Make sure you have PLENTY of water available throughout the party area. You can provide separate, personalized bowls or communal bowls stationed in various areas.
6) Provide people food in ingredients that are also safe for dogs.
If you keep the above information in mind, your party is sure to be a good one. Most importantly, make sure you and your pooch have fun! After all, birthdays only happen once a year (seven in dog years)!
FIRST AID IN THE FIELD (Entry #2 - "Mouth-to-Snout: Pet CPR")
April 18, 2009
Since April is National Pet First Aid Awareness Month, I thought it very fitting to continue with our First Aid in the Field segment. CBS News recently aired a story about a man who heard screeching tires in front of his house. He ran outside to see a standard poodle laying in the middle of the road. The poodle had been hit by a car. The man just happened to know pet CPR, also known as "Mouth-to-Snout", thereby saving the poodle's life.
In honor of this Good Samaritan, this blog entry will teach you how to perform the Mouth-to-Snout method, as explained by http://www.dog-first-aid-101.com/.
Just as with human CPR, effective dog CPR uses the A-B-C process: Airway – Breathing – Circulation. If your dog is non-responsive (she does not respond to her name or to a light shake), begin the A-B-C process immediately. Be sure to do it in the correct order, as there is no point in performing CPR if your dog’s airway is obstructed and she cannot breathe.
A – Airway
The first step in dog CPR is to obtain an open airway. Do not continue to B-Breathing and C-Circulation until you have an open airway.
Please be careful when doing this as, even if she is unresponsive, your dog may bite by instinct.
If her tongue has rolled into the back of her mouth, pull it straight out of her mouth to open the airway.
Ensure that her neck is straight by bringing the head in line with the neck. If she’s suffering from head or neck trauma, do not over-straighten the neck.
Perform two (2) rescue breaths. Do this by holding her mouth closed and then giving mouth-to-nose ventilations. If the breaths go in easily, continue on to B-Breathing.
If the breaths do not go in, or if you detect some resistance, reposition her neck and try the two breaths again.
If these breaths do not go in, inspect the airway by looking into your dog’s mouth. Look down her throat for a foreign object blocking the airway. If you see one, reach in and remove it.
Try two more breaths. If you can’t get them into her, you’ll have to use the Heimlich maneuver.
A-Heimlich Maneuver
Only perform the Heimlich Maneuver if you could not remove the object from your dog’s airway.
Turn her upside down, with her back against your chest. If she’s large and/or heavy, you may need someone to help you hold her.
Wrap your arms around her, just below the rib cage (since you’re holding her upside down, it’s above the rib cage, in the abdomen). Grasp your fist with the other hand.
Using both arms, give five (5) sharp thrusts to the abdomen. The thrusts should feel like quick bear hugs. Perform all five as if each one is the one that will force the object from her airway.
After the five thrusts, check her mouth and airway for the object. If you see it, remove it and give two more mouth-to-nose ventilations.
B – Breathing
Once you have cleared her airway and given the two rescue breaths, check whether your dog is breathing. If she is breathing effectively, you can now perform dog CPR. If she is not breathing, or her breathing is labored, focus on helping her breathe first.
If her tongue has rolled into the back of her mouth, pull it straight out of her mouth to open the airway.
Ensure that her neck is straight by bringing the head in line with the neck. If she’s suffering from head or neck trauma, do not over-straighten the neck.
Give her 12 breaths per minute, one (1) every five (5) seconds. Each breath only needs to make her chest rise. Do not over-inflate the lungs, especially in a small dog.
If the breaths do not go in, return to A-Airway and A-Heimlich Maneuver.
If the breaths go in properly, proceed to C-Circulation and begin dog CPR. Continue the breathing support if it is still, or becomes, necessary.
C – Circulation
Before beginning dog CPR, be sure that you have a clear airway and that your dog is breathing properly. Only begin CPR after completing all steps in A-Airway and B-Breathing.
Before beginning dog CPR, check for major bleeding. Look for pooling or spurting blood. If you find either, control the bleeding by applying pressure with your hand and a gauze bandage.
Check for a pulse in her groin (where the inside of her rear leg meets her abdomen). Be very careful if you check this on a conscious dog, as she may snap or bite.
Lay your dog on her right side, with her back towards your knees.
Place your hands where her left elbow touches her chest. This should be more or less in the middle of the rib cage. Compress her chest 15 times, followed by two mouth-to-nose breaths. Give three (3) compressions every two (2) seconds. The size of your dog will determine how much you should compress her chest.
If she’s a small dog, compressions should be a half inch (1/2”, or 1.25 cm).
If she’s a medium size dog, use one inch (1”, or 2.5cm) compressions.
If she’s a large dog, one and a half inch (1.5”, or 3.75cm) compressions are sufficient.
Repeat Step 5 as necessary.
Once these dog CPR steps have your dog breathing again, or if you are unable to stabilize her problem, lift and move her to the car and get her to your vet or emergency animal clinic.
Let them know that you’re bringing in your dog, and that she has had either respiratory arrest or cardiac arrest. Also provide any other details, such as the cause (electrocution, poisoning, or unknown cause). The more information you can provide, the better prepared the clinic staff will be when you get your dog there.
There is no doubt that dog CPR can save your dog’s life if she goes into cardiac arrest or respiratory arrest. Invest some time in reviewing this information and “practicing” on her.
Please remember; however, NOT to attempt CPR on her if her heart is beating. You might create more problems than you’ll fix if you do.
Always remember to consult your veterinarian about any health issues concerning your dog or if you are at all unsure of the CPR or Heimlich procedure. And, please remember to always consult with your vet about any health issue affecting your dog. Consult with your veterinarian if you are at all unsure of the CPR or Heimlich procedure. And, please remember to always consult with your vet about any health issue affecting your dog.
To watch the CBS story mentioned above, click here: http://www.cbsnews.com/stories/2009/04/16/earlyshow/living/petplanet/main4949670.shtml?source=search_story.
*Illustrations courtesy of www.rescuecritters.com/cpr.html.
Since April is National Pet First Aid Awareness Month, I thought it very fitting to continue with our First Aid in the Field segment. CBS News recently aired a story about a man who heard screeching tires in front of his house. He ran outside to see a standard poodle laying in the middle of the road. The poodle had been hit by a car. The man just happened to know pet CPR, also known as "Mouth-to-Snout", thereby saving the poodle's life.
In honor of this Good Samaritan, this blog entry will teach you how to perform the Mouth-to-Snout method, as explained by http://www.dog-first-aid-101.com/.
Just as with human CPR, effective dog CPR uses the A-B-C process: Airway – Breathing – Circulation. If your dog is non-responsive (she does not respond to her name or to a light shake), begin the A-B-C process immediately. Be sure to do it in the correct order, as there is no point in performing CPR if your dog’s airway is obstructed and she cannot breathe.
A – Airway
The first step in dog CPR is to obtain an open airway. Do not continue to B-Breathing and C-Circulation until you have an open airway.
Please be careful when doing this as, even if she is unresponsive, your dog may bite by instinct.
If her tongue has rolled into the back of her mouth, pull it straight out of her mouth to open the airway.
Ensure that her neck is straight by bringing the head in line with the neck. If she’s suffering from head or neck trauma, do not over-straighten the neck.
Perform two (2) rescue breaths. Do this by holding her mouth closed and then giving mouth-to-nose ventilations. If the breaths go in easily, continue on to B-Breathing.
If the breaths do not go in, or if you detect some resistance, reposition her neck and try the two breaths again.
If these breaths do not go in, inspect the airway by looking into your dog’s mouth. Look down her throat for a foreign object blocking the airway. If you see one, reach in and remove it.
Try two more breaths. If you can’t get them into her, you’ll have to use the Heimlich maneuver.
A-Heimlich Maneuver
Only perform the Heimlich Maneuver if you could not remove the object from your dog’s airway.
Turn her upside down, with her back against your chest. If she’s large and/or heavy, you may need someone to help you hold her.
Wrap your arms around her, just below the rib cage (since you’re holding her upside down, it’s above the rib cage, in the abdomen). Grasp your fist with the other hand.
Using both arms, give five (5) sharp thrusts to the abdomen. The thrusts should feel like quick bear hugs. Perform all five as if each one is the one that will force the object from her airway.
After the five thrusts, check her mouth and airway for the object. If you see it, remove it and give two more mouth-to-nose ventilations.
B – Breathing
Once you have cleared her airway and given the two rescue breaths, check whether your dog is breathing. If she is breathing effectively, you can now perform dog CPR. If she is not breathing, or her breathing is labored, focus on helping her breathe first.
If her tongue has rolled into the back of her mouth, pull it straight out of her mouth to open the airway.
Ensure that her neck is straight by bringing the head in line with the neck. If she’s suffering from head or neck trauma, do not over-straighten the neck.
Give her 12 breaths per minute, one (1) every five (5) seconds. Each breath only needs to make her chest rise. Do not over-inflate the lungs, especially in a small dog.
If the breaths do not go in, return to A-Airway and A-Heimlich Maneuver.
If the breaths go in properly, proceed to C-Circulation and begin dog CPR. Continue the breathing support if it is still, or becomes, necessary.
C – Circulation
Before beginning dog CPR, be sure that you have a clear airway and that your dog is breathing properly. Only begin CPR after completing all steps in A-Airway and B-Breathing.
Before beginning dog CPR, check for major bleeding. Look for pooling or spurting blood. If you find either, control the bleeding by applying pressure with your hand and a gauze bandage.
Check for a pulse in her groin (where the inside of her rear leg meets her abdomen). Be very careful if you check this on a conscious dog, as she may snap or bite.
Lay your dog on her right side, with her back towards your knees.
Place your hands where her left elbow touches her chest. This should be more or less in the middle of the rib cage. Compress her chest 15 times, followed by two mouth-to-nose breaths. Give three (3) compressions every two (2) seconds. The size of your dog will determine how much you should compress her chest.
If she’s a small dog, compressions should be a half inch (1/2”, or 1.25 cm).If she’s a medium size dog, use one inch (1”, or 2.5cm) compressions.
If she’s a large dog, one and a half inch (1.5”, or 3.75cm) compressions are sufficient.
Repeat Step 5 as necessary.
Once these dog CPR steps have your dog breathing again, or if you are unable to stabilize her problem, lift and move her to the car and get her to your vet or emergency animal clinic.
Let them know that you’re bringing in your dog, and that she has had either respiratory arrest or cardiac arrest. Also provide any other details, such as the cause (electrocution, poisoning, or unknown cause). The more information you can provide, the better prepared the clinic staff will be when you get your dog there.
There is no doubt that dog CPR can save your dog’s life if she goes into cardiac arrest or respiratory arrest. Invest some time in reviewing this information and “practicing” on her.
Please remember; however, NOT to attempt CPR on her if her heart is beating. You might create more problems than you’ll fix if you do.
Always remember to consult your veterinarian about any health issues concerning your dog or if you are at all unsure of the CPR or Heimlich procedure. And, please remember to always consult with your vet about any health issue affecting your dog. Consult with your veterinarian if you are at all unsure of the CPR or Heimlich procedure. And, please remember to always consult with your vet about any health issue affecting your dog.
To watch the CBS story mentioned above, click here: http://www.cbsnews.com/stories/2009/04/16/earlyshow/living/petplanet/main4949670.shtml?source=search_story.
*Illustrations courtesy of www.rescuecritters.com/cpr.html.
FIRST AID IN THE FIELD (Entry #1 - "Paw Lacerations")
Written March 29, 2009
It's a fear of everyone who hikes or camps with their dog. Imagine this. You and your pooch are taking a stroll, miles from civilization. He sniffs all around and bounds along a few yards in front of you to investigate something interesting he has discovered. Suddenly, he yelps! Something is wrong, but you don't know what. You're in the middle of nowhere. What do you do?
In this blog series - FIRST AID IN THE FIELD - you will learn how to treat your dog if you can't get medical attention right away.
One of the most common injuries that occur outdoors are paw lacerations. Anything from stepping on anything from glass to sharp rocks can cause a cut to the pad and make it bleed. If your dog cuts his paw the first thing you must do is assess the injury. Likely, the injury is painful, but not serious. Nevertheless, you should examine the paw carefully as each case is different.
Next, clean the wound with hydrogen peroxide or clean water. If possible, remove any visible debris. Now you will need to bandage the paw.
Christina Chan, writer for Dogs for Kids magazine, offers instructions for bandaging your dog's paw. Follow this step-by-step guide when bandaging a lacerated paw:
Bandaging Basics
1) Rinse the wound with hydrogen peroxide or clean water. Never use water from a river, lake or other natural source; it could contain contaminates that may infect the wound.
2) Wind rolled cast padding around your dog's leg from top to bottom. Once you've covered the site of the foot pad, wind diagonally back up and trim. The bandage should not be uncomfortably tight.
3) Next, repeat wrapping the leg with a stretchy tape, such as Elastikon or Vetrap.
4) Repeat the process with white tape, such as Wet Pruf, to add stability and waterproof the bandage. (See diagram below)
After you have properly bandaged the paw, take your dog to the vet at the next opportunity. Your vet will be able to better assess the injury and will take the measures needed to avoid infection.
One way to help prevent paw lacerations is to "toughen up" your dog's paws to get him use to outdoor terrain. A couple of weeks before your hiking /camping excursion, walk your dog for about 30 minutes a day on a variety of surfaces, including cement and gravel. This will help him develop needed calluses on his paws.
As with anything, BE PREPARED. Simple knowledge and preparation can mean the difference between life and death for your best friend.
Spring Time Poisons
Written March 20, 2009Finally, winter is passé and spring has sprung! The trees are green again, the flowers are in bloom, and pretty soon, you will be working in your gardens and flower beds. Before you make that trip to your local home/garden improvement store to pick out what you will be planting this year, you'll want to make sure the plants are not harmful to the four-legged members of your family. Hopefully, the information provided below will help you make more educated plant choices.
Some of the most common poisonous plans include:
- Lilies (can cause severe kidney damage)
- Sago Palm (can cause vomiting, diarrhea, depression, seizures & liver failure)
- Tulips / Narcissus bulbs (can cause intense gastrointestinal irritation, drooling, loss of appetite, depression of the central nervous system, convulsions and cardiac problems)
- Azaleas / Rhododendron (can cause vomiting, drooling, diarrhea, weakness & depression of the central nervous system, coma and death)
- Oleanders (can cause gastrointestinal tract irritation, abnormal heart function, hypothermia and death)
- Castor Bean (can cause severe abdominal pain, drooling, vomiting, diarrhea, excessive thirst, weakness and loss of appetite, dehydration, muscle twitching, twitchings, seizures, coma and death.)
- Cyclamen (can cause significant gastrointestinal irritation, intense vomiting and death.)
- Kalanchoe (can cause gastrointestinal irritation and cardiac problems)
- Yew (can cause trembling, incoordination, difficulty breathing, gastrointestinal irritation, cardiac failure and death.)
- Amaryllis (can cause vomiting, depression, diarrhea, abdominal pain, hyersalivation, anorexia and tremors.)
- Autumn Crocus (can cause oral irritation, bloody vomiting, diarrhea, shock, multi-organ damage and bone marrow suppression.)
- Chrysanthemums (can cause gastrointestinal upset, drooling, vomiting, diarrhea, depression and loss of coordination.)
- English Ivy (can cause vomiting, abdominal pain, hypersalivation and diarrhea.)
- Pothos (can cause significant mechanical irritation and swelling or the oral tissues and other parts of the gastrointestinal tract.)
- Schefflera (can cause oral irritation, excessive drooling, vomiting, difficulty in swallowing and intense burning and irritation of the mouth, lips and tongue.)
It is important to remember that not only flowers and plants can be extremely toxic to your pets. Even some mulch can be harmful and potentially fatal. A fairly new brand of mulch, called Cocoa Mulch (sold by many garden supply stores, as well as Home Depot and Target) is manufactured by Hershey's and is known for is pleasant chocolaty smell. The smell is not only attractive to people, but to dogs, as well. The danger here is that this mulch, which is made from cocoa bean shells and contains Theobromine, which is fatally toxic to pets. Unfortunately, according to Dogster.com and Snopes.com, there have already been many pet deaths due to the ingestion of this particular type of mulch.
Remember, this blog contains only a short list of dangerous plants. For a more complete, searchable list, click this link (http://www.aspca.org/pet-care/poison-control/plants/). You will be directed to the ASPCA's poison control website.
If you are diligent in your efforts to ensure your yard does not contain toxic dangers, you and your pet will have a fun and safe playground to enjoy all spring and summer long!
TEACHING BASIC COMMANDS – ENTRY #4 (“STAY”) - Part 2
Written March 14, 2009
Now that you have been using the sit-stay command for a while, let's try an out-of-sight stay. Teaching your dog to stay put even when you are not visible can be tough for your little guy to learn. Dogs, like small children, often think we don't know what is going on when we can't see them and they can't see us. This command can be even harder for dogs who want to be at their owner's side every minute of every day. As such, it is important to think in terms of "baby steps" when working with this command.
First, put your dog in the "sit" position. Next, use the hand signal for the "stay" command*, as well as the word "STAY". Next, hold the treat right above your dog's nose. Your dog will naturally look up. This is OK. Keep the treat in the same place while you slowly walk a full circle around your dog. Once you have completed the circle (and your dog has not moved his bottom from the floor), give your dog the treat you were holding above his nose.
After you had done this a few times and you are confident that your dog understands the concept (i.e., your dog is staying put while you walk around him), slowly increase the size of your circle. Eventually, using this concept, you should be able to put your dog in a successful sit-stay in the center of a room, while you walk the full circumference inside the room. Every time you come full circle and your dog has not moved, be sure to give him a treat.
Once your dog has mastered this circle sit-stay method. Try walking through an open or a glass door for a second or two. Slowly increase the number of seconds you stay on the other side of the door. Again, remember to give your dog a treat at the end of each successful "Stay" command. As your dog progresses, you will eventually be able to close the door and/or even leave a room, all the while remaining confident that your dog has not broken his sit-stay command. Also, Remember not to work with your dog for longer than about 15 minutes at a time. You don't want your pooch to get restless, since focus is needed when training.
Do NOT abuse your power. Some dogs are simply not capable of remaining in a "Stay" position for longer than 15 minutes. For other dogs, remaining in a "Stay" position for 30 minutes or even longer is nothing. Some dogs may go to sleep during this exercise and that is fine - as long as he stays put. Know your dog's limits and ALWAYS reward with lots and lots of praise. Let your little buddy know how pleased you are with his progress.
Now, on a separate note, I would be remiss if I did not mention that our youngest little girl, Ju-Ju, graduated her Beginner's Obedience Training class last Thursday. Michael and I are both VERY proud of her. She is such a smart little girl!
*If you have not yet taught your dog the "STAY" command, see the blog entry entitled: Teaching Basic Commands - Entry #3 ("Stay") - Part 1
Dealing with Separation Anxiety
March 1, 2009
No doubt you've heard about the havoc a dog with Separation Anxiety ("SA") can reek on your home, not to mention the horrors that your furry loved-one suffers psychologically. According to Claws & Paws Veterinary Hospital, U.S. veterinary practices estimate that approximately 14% of canine patients exhibit one or more signs of SA. This behavioral disease is second only to aggression. The good news is that separation anxiety is a treatable disorder. However, to learn how to help your dog deal with his complex, your first have to understand what causes this syndrome and its origins.
"When separated from their social group, most pups whine, bark or howl. These sounds are referred to as distress vocalizations." says Peter J. Volmer, from the Animal Care Center Veterinary Clinic. "In the wild, these sounds increase the chances that a puppy will be reunited with the pack. If a pup’s movement is restrained while it is isolated, it will respond with escape behaviors such as digging, thrashing about, and chewing. These behaviors have obvious benefits for survival."
According to Peter Volmer, many pet owners inadvertently elicit these behaviors by placing a young puppy in a barricaded kitchen or other unoccupied area of the house. Sometimes these owners provide a ticking clock, a radio, or a hot water bottle to “comfort” the animal. This entire procedure is unnecessary at the least, and can harm the puppy psychologically and physically if emotional behaviors indicating stress are allowed to persist or worsen. This effect can lessen if the puppy's sleeping crate is placed in a bedroom with a family member.
However, it is important to note that SA can also occur in adolescent dogs, especially those adopted from a shelter; middle-aged dogs, though that is less common; and in older dogs. The theory regarding older dogs with SA is that as dogs age, they may lose sensory perception , such as hearing and sight, and thus they become more dependent on their owners, resulting in possible anxiety when they are separated or their owners are out of view.
In older dogs, prolonged and constant human contact is frequently seen in cases of SA. Many dogs are so strongly attached to their owners that they will follow them from room to room to maintain close proximity.
Signs of SA can range from mild to severe:
Distress vocalization—howling, barking, whining
Inappropriate elimination—urination, defecation
Destructive behavior—chewing, digging
Anorexia/ “depression” or inactivity
Psychosomatic/medical consequences—excessive licking of haircoat, pacing, circling
Hyperattachment—excessive greeting behavior, constant pestering of owner
Hypersalivation
The behaviors associated with separation anxiety often occur within a short period of time after the animal is left alone, a unique feature which distinguishes separation anxiety from other behavioral disorders. Please note that a thorough history and physical examination (including blood tests) are needed to definitively diagnose separation anxiety and rule out other medical or behavioral differential diagnoses.
SA can be treated by both medical intervention and behavioral modification/training. The course of treatment should be determined on a case by case basis depending upon your dog’s response to the therapy/treatment first chosen. Improvement may be seen within a few days, and typically is observed within one month or less of treatment. A standard length of treatment duration is two months, with some dogs needing longer treatment times. Because dogs with SA are truly suffering and can do real harm to themselves, treatment is the only humane option.
Behavioral modification techniques of treatment are based upon the principles of desensitization and counter-conditioning. This training is not hard, nor does it take very long to complete each session. One popular technique is detailed below*
Step #1: Practice leaving your dog alone for short periods of time. Pick up your keys and leave for 1 minute.
Step #2: Gradually increase the amount of time you stay away. This will accustom your dog to your absence
Step #3: Avoid overly emotional good-byes and greetings. Instead, pat your dog on the head and offer a quick good-bye or hello
Step #4: Keep your dog confined in a safe area while you are away. Be sure to leave a bowl of water and plenty of chew toys.
Step #5: Exercise your dog for an hour each day in places other than your yard or home. This helps your dog feel comfortable in other locations and lets her blow off steam.
Step #6: Praise your dog often to build self-confidence, rather than punishing her for exhibiting frightened behaviors. Punishment only increases anxiety and makes the situation worse.
According to Paws & Claws, before beginning treatment, it is important to identify which behaviors are to be assessed and what level of progress is expected. While most dogs do respond well to treatment for separation related anxiety, treatment failures do occur. Signs of separation anxiety may return with changes to the dog’s environment or routine. Common precipitating factors include marriage, moving to a new house, a new baby, and changes in schedules (children going back to school or a new job with different hours). In such instances, additional treatment may be needed.
In all cases of canine separation anxiety, any form of reprimand or punishment is contra-indicated and may actually increase the dog’s anxiety.
* Technique taken from ehow.com
No doubt you've heard about the havoc a dog with Separation Anxiety ("SA") can reek on your home, not to mention the horrors that your furry loved-one suffers psychologically. According to Claws & Paws Veterinary Hospital, U.S. veterinary practices estimate that approximately 14% of canine patients exhibit one or more signs of SA. This behavioral disease is second only to aggression. The good news is that separation anxiety is a treatable disorder. However, to learn how to help your dog deal with his complex, your first have to understand what causes this syndrome and its origins.
"When separated from their social group, most pups whine, bark or howl. These sounds are referred to as distress vocalizations." says Peter J. Volmer, from the Animal Care Center Veterinary Clinic. "In the wild, these sounds increase the chances that a puppy will be reunited with the pack. If a pup’s movement is restrained while it is isolated, it will respond with escape behaviors such as digging, thrashing about, and chewing. These behaviors have obvious benefits for survival."
According to Peter Volmer, many pet owners inadvertently elicit these behaviors by placing a young puppy in a barricaded kitchen or other unoccupied area of the house. Sometimes these owners provide a ticking clock, a radio, or a hot water bottle to “comfort” the animal. This entire procedure is unnecessary at the least, and can harm the puppy psychologically and physically if emotional behaviors indicating stress are allowed to persist or worsen. This effect can lessen if the puppy's sleeping crate is placed in a bedroom with a family member.
However, it is important to note that SA can also occur in adolescent dogs, especially those adopted from a shelter; middle-aged dogs, though that is less common; and in older dogs. The theory regarding older dogs with SA is that as dogs age, they may lose sensory perception , such as hearing and sight, and thus they become more dependent on their owners, resulting in possible anxiety when they are separated or their owners are out of view.
In older dogs, prolonged and constant human contact is frequently seen in cases of SA. Many dogs are so strongly attached to their owners that they will follow them from room to room to maintain close proximity.
Signs of SA can range from mild to severe:
Distress vocalization—howling, barking, whining
Inappropriate elimination—urination, defecation
Destructive behavior—chewing, digging
Anorexia/ “depression” or inactivity
Psychosomatic/medical consequences—excessive licking of haircoat, pacing, circling
Hyperattachment—excessive greeting behavior, constant pestering of owner
Hypersalivation
The behaviors associated with separation anxiety often occur within a short period of time after the animal is left alone, a unique feature which distinguishes separation anxiety from other behavioral disorders. Please note that a thorough history and physical examination (including blood tests) are needed to definitively diagnose separation anxiety and rule out other medical or behavioral differential diagnoses.
SA can be treated by both medical intervention and behavioral modification/training. The course of treatment should be determined on a case by case basis depending upon your dog’s response to the therapy/treatment first chosen. Improvement may be seen within a few days, and typically is observed within one month or less of treatment. A standard length of treatment duration is two months, with some dogs needing longer treatment times. Because dogs with SA are truly suffering and can do real harm to themselves, treatment is the only humane option.
Behavioral modification techniques of treatment are based upon the principles of desensitization and counter-conditioning. This training is not hard, nor does it take very long to complete each session. One popular technique is detailed below*
Step #1: Practice leaving your dog alone for short periods of time. Pick up your keys and leave for 1 minute.
Step #2: Gradually increase the amount of time you stay away. This will accustom your dog to your absence
Step #3: Avoid overly emotional good-byes and greetings. Instead, pat your dog on the head and offer a quick good-bye or hello
Step #4: Keep your dog confined in a safe area while you are away. Be sure to leave a bowl of water and plenty of chew toys.
Step #5: Exercise your dog for an hour each day in places other than your yard or home. This helps your dog feel comfortable in other locations and lets her blow off steam.
Step #6: Praise your dog often to build self-confidence, rather than punishing her for exhibiting frightened behaviors. Punishment only increases anxiety and makes the situation worse.
According to Paws & Claws, before beginning treatment, it is important to identify which behaviors are to be assessed and what level of progress is expected. While most dogs do respond well to treatment for separation related anxiety, treatment failures do occur. Signs of separation anxiety may return with changes to the dog’s environment or routine. Common precipitating factors include marriage, moving to a new house, a new baby, and changes in schedules (children going back to school or a new job with different hours). In such instances, additional treatment may be needed.
In all cases of canine separation anxiety, any form of reprimand or punishment is contra-indicated and may actually increase the dog’s anxiety.
* Technique taken from ehow.com
Guide to a Pet-Friendly Valentine's Day (According to the ASPCA)
February 5, 2009 Romance Lovers, Protect Your Pets!
As Valentine’s Day approaches, sweethearts everywhere are searching far and wide for that perfect gift to give to loved ones during this romance-filled time of year—roses, chocolates & candy, a candle-lit dinner with wine, perhaps even a new four-legged friend. But the ASPCA wants to caution you that some traditional Valentine’s Day gift and celebration ideas should come with a warning for your furry companions.
Don’t Let Your Animals Eat Chocolate
Chocolate, a popular gift around this time of year, can be dangerous to pets. A ten pound dog can come away with vomiting/diarrhea, hyperactivity, seizures and an abnormally elevated heart rate from just two ounces of baking chocolate or 20 ounces of milk chocolate. The darker the chocolate, the more likely a pet who's ingested it will suffer these symptoms. Cats are sensitive, too, but they don't normally eat large enough amounts of chocolate to cause anything worse than gastrointestinal upset. Chocolates also contain fat and caffeine-like substances known as methylxanthines, which can potentially cause the above symptoms and, in severe cases, death. Stow chocolates in paw-proof drawers and cabinets.
Put Alcoholic Beverages Safely Away
Many a curious pet has explored an alcoholic beverage left in a glass. If ingested, this could cause vomiting, diarrhea, a lack of coordination, central nervous system depression, tremors, difficulty breathing, metabolic disturbances and coma. Alcohol can even cause death from respiratory failure if a large enough amount is ingested. It is important to keep in mind that animals are not only smaller than us, they often metabolize substances differently. This makes pets more susceptible to alcohol in smaller amounts. We advise not allowing pets to have any access to alcoholic beverages or other alcohol-based products.
Don’t Let Your Animals Ingest Sugar Substitute
Another potential hazard is gum or candy sweetened with the sugar substitute xylitol, which can cause a fairly sudden drop in blood sugar (known as hypoglycemia). This can result in depression, loss of coordination and seizures. “If you suspect your dog may have eaten products containing any of these harmful ingredients, please seek veterinary treatment immediately,” says Dr. Steven Hansen, veterinary toxicologist and Vice President of the ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center.
Keep Holiday Flowers Out of Reach
Many varieties of lilies are highly toxic to pets, so if these are your Valentine’s flower of choice, make sure your pets can’t get near them. When sending a floral arrangement, request that it contain more lillies.
Other potentially poisonous flowers may include (please note this is not a complete list):
- tulips (especially if potted, as the bulbs are the most toxic)
- amaryllis (same as tulips)
- Calla lily (can cause intense oral and gastrointestinal irritation)
- daisies
- chrysanthemums
- baby's breath
Safer alternatives might include (please note this is not a complete list):
- African violet
- asters
- camellia
- Canna lilies (they are not of the genus Lilium)
- jasmine
- orchids
For a more complete on plants that are toxic to pets, please visit: http://www.aspca.org/site/PageServer?pagename=pro_apcc_toxicplants
Keep Your Pets Away from Thorns
Pet owners are urged to take caution with roses and other flowers containing thorns, which could be potentially harmful to pets if played with, bitten, stepped on or swallowed. “It’s all too easy for pets to step on thorny stems that fall to the ground as a flower arrangement is being created,” says Dr. Louise Murray, Director of Medicine for the ASPCA’s Bergh Memorial Animal Hospital. “Be sure to keep your pets clear of your workspace as you arrange your beautiful flowers, since they can develop serious infections from thorn punctures.”
Don’t Leave Candles Burning
Candlelit dinners are romantic, just don’t leave the room while the flames are still burning. Let curious paws and beaks find other, safer things to play with.
Clean Up After Wrapping and Decorating
Make sure to keep balloons, cellophane, tape, ribbons, bows and other wrapping items or festive decorations out of your pets’ reach. Choking on any of these items, or ingesting them, may prove hazardous to your pet’s health.
The Right Way to Give Pets as Presents
It may seem very tempting to give your loved one a new puppy or kitten for Valentine’s Day. They sure are cute and cuddly! But the ASPCA wants to remind you that bringing a new companion animal into your home is a big decision. Why not present your loved one with a gift certificate to adopt from your local shelter, or take a trip to the shelter together? You might just make another love match.
TEACHING BASIC COMMANDS – ENTRY #3 (“STAY”) - Part 1
January 18, 2009
Once your dog has learned the “Sit” command. Natural progression tells you to teach him to “Stay”. This command is extremely useful in many circumstances, including preventing your dog from getting into all kinds of trouble. According to Dr. Rolan Tripp, D.V.M, some compelling reasons for you to teach your dog this command include:
· Giving your dog good street manners, such as stopping and sitting at curbs;
· Keeping him from begging by putting him in a “sit-stay” or “down-stay” during meals;
· Subduing aggression by putting him in a “down-stay” any time he acts dominant;
· Keeping him out of harm’s way in an emergency, if you suddenly have to turn your attention elsewhere.
Other examples are when at home someone rings the doorbell and you let visitors into your home, or outdoors when your dog might want to chase something it is interested in.
Ok, now that you’re convinced that you need to teach your dog the “Stay” command, here’s how:
First, ask your dog to sit in front of you. Then, place your open hand in front of your dog’s face as if you are telling him to stop, but instead give the command, “Stay”. Count to 3 and then reward your dog with praise and a treat. Repeat this process while slowing increasing the amount of time you wait before praising your dog.
Once your dog can hold a Stay while you count to ten, then increase the difficulty by taking a few steps backward. If your dog continues to successfully hold the “sit”, then continue to slowly increase the difficulty by stepping further away. However, during this phase of the training, do not let your dog’s sight. This will come in Part 2, to follow soon.
Other Helpful tips:
- Don’t teach too much at one time and overload your dog. On the first day, practice with your dog for just 5 – 10 minutes. Make sure that your dog is having fun, and you should be having fun, too. If your dog is not having fun, you should end the exercise and try again at another time.
- As always, end every session on a positive note.
- Practice this command often – even if you feel your dog has fully mastered it.
- Eventually try to phase out the food reward in exchange for lavish praise.
- Gently praise your dog periodically during the stay to let him know he's on the right track. If you just reprimand him for breaking the stay, he won't want to follow the command. If you praise him two or three times before he breaks the stay and only reprimand after breaking it, he'll learn that staying is good and breaking the stay is bad. And that's exactly what you want him to think.
- Use reprimands only after your dog can hold the Stay for at least 30 seconds.
- Pay attention to your dog. You never want to set your dog up for failure. If you don’t pay attention while your dog is staying, he won’t pay attention to your command. Watch for signs that he is ready to break the Stay and cut the exercise short, if necessary. Your focus should be on rewarding your dog for good responses, not punishing him for mistakes.
- Don’t use the stay command more than 5 times per day. For training to be effective it needs to be fun for your dog – don’t abuse your power.
Check back for the next blog entry in this series: TEACHING BASIC COMMANDS - ("STAY") – Part 2.
Once your dog has learned the “Sit” command. Natural progression tells you to teach him to “Stay”. This command is extremely useful in many circumstances, including preventing your dog from getting into all kinds of trouble. According to Dr. Rolan Tripp, D.V.M, some compelling reasons for you to teach your dog this command include:
· Giving your dog good street manners, such as stopping and sitting at curbs;
· Keeping him from begging by putting him in a “sit-stay” or “down-stay” during meals;
· Subduing aggression by putting him in a “down-stay” any time he acts dominant;
· Keeping him out of harm’s way in an emergency, if you suddenly have to turn your attention elsewhere.
Other examples are when at home someone rings the doorbell and you let visitors into your home, or outdoors when your dog might want to chase something it is interested in.
Ok, now that you’re convinced that you need to teach your dog the “Stay” command, here’s how:
First, ask your dog to sit in front of you. Then, place your open hand in front of your dog’s face as if you are telling him to stop, but instead give the command, “Stay”. Count to 3 and then reward your dog with praise and a treat. Repeat this process while slowing increasing the amount of time you wait before praising your dog.
Once your dog can hold a Stay while you count to ten, then increase the difficulty by taking a few steps backward. If your dog continues to successfully hold the “sit”, then continue to slowly increase the difficulty by stepping further away. However, during this phase of the training, do not let your dog’s sight. This will come in Part 2, to follow soon.
Other Helpful tips:
- Don’t teach too much at one time and overload your dog. On the first day, practice with your dog for just 5 – 10 minutes. Make sure that your dog is having fun, and you should be having fun, too. If your dog is not having fun, you should end the exercise and try again at another time.
- As always, end every session on a positive note.
- Practice this command often – even if you feel your dog has fully mastered it.
- Eventually try to phase out the food reward in exchange for lavish praise.
- Gently praise your dog periodically during the stay to let him know he's on the right track. If you just reprimand him for breaking the stay, he won't want to follow the command. If you praise him two or three times before he breaks the stay and only reprimand after breaking it, he'll learn that staying is good and breaking the stay is bad. And that's exactly what you want him to think.
- Use reprimands only after your dog can hold the Stay for at least 30 seconds.
- Pay attention to your dog. You never want to set your dog up for failure. If you don’t pay attention while your dog is staying, he won’t pay attention to your command. Watch for signs that he is ready to break the Stay and cut the exercise short, if necessary. Your focus should be on rewarding your dog for good responses, not punishing him for mistakes.
- Don’t use the stay command more than 5 times per day. For training to be effective it needs to be fun for your dog – don’t abuse your power.
Check back for the next blog entry in this series: TEACHING BASIC COMMANDS - ("STAY") – Part 2.
More Cold Weather Tips: Keep Your Pet Safe from Electric Shock
January 13, 2009On the news this morning, I saw that the forecast for this Thursday night is 10 degrees. That's right, TEN DEGREES!!! My first thought was, "We live in the south, it's not suppose to get that cold here!" My second thought was about an article on the ASPCA website that I read recently, offering advice to individuals who are still brave enough to take their dogs out for brisk walks during these frigid temperatures.
Often storms this time of year bring snow and ice, which can damage power lines. The danger of stray voltage on city streets can turn a simple stroll into a devastating event for your four-legged loved ones. Most common in northern climates and urban areas, stray voltage occurs when dormant utilities leak excess electricity. Combined with wet streets and salt-based ice melts, this current can shock, injure or even prove fatal for those in its path.
“Since salt used to treat icy streets is a great conductor of electricity,” says Dr. Louise Murray, ASPCA Director of Medicine and author of Vet Confidential, “the risk of shock from stray voltage is that much higher during the winter months.” The ASPCA offers the following tips to help you avoid potentially hazardous areas, and advice on what to do if your pet has suffered an electrical shock:
Keep your dog away from metal fixtures, such as lampposts, grates or manhole covers. While these spots may be your pet’s favorite place to relieve himself, they may also conduct hazardous electricity.
Your dog's snazzy, rubber rain boots may look good, but they won't protect your pooch from a strong current. Don’t depend on them to keep your pet safe. Some boots—those with metal studs, for example—may even make the situation worse.
Observe your dog’s behavior. Is he skittish, frightened, angry or upset for no apparent reason? These sudden behavioral changes could be an indication of electric shock.
If your dog is incapacitated due to shock, don’t try to touch or move him without protective gear. Your pooch may pass the current to you, rendering you both incapable of seeking help. Instead, call your local fire department immediately.
For more information about keeping your pet safe during the winter months, check out the Top Ten Cold Weather Tips entry in this blog.
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