Training Out Food Aggression

November 25, 2009

We really spoiled our little Geisha (our very first JS) when we got her. For the first year of her life, she got everything she wanted - Every kind of pampering imaginable, every type of tasty food/treat available. When she wanted something, the word "No" was rarely used. We had no idea how easily this breed takes to spoiling, and we unintentionally created quite the diva.

It was after she turned a year old that she exhibited the first signs of food aggression. One day after a shopping trip, I brought home a few very special bones for the dogs. BlackJacks finished his immediately. Sami was just a puppy & his little puppy jaws had gotten tired, so he gave up & went to play with his stuffed bear. After about 20 minutes, Geisha was still working away on hers, and since it was about to get dark outside, I really needed her quit focusing on the bone and come inside. The problem was, all she wanted to do was chew on her tasty new bone. Frustrated that she was ignoring me (something that was normally unlike her), I walked up to her & took the bone away. She got mad then growled and snapped at me. I was stunned! I couldn't believe it. My precious little angel was not acting very angel-like. So, after smacking her little bottom & bringing her inside, I did the only thing I knew to do - I studied up on the best way to nip the problem in the bud.

Guarding food in any form (whether by biting, growling, a confrontational stance, etc.) is always a big No-No and should never be tolerated. This is one thing that all shelters test a dog on beforing OK'ing it for adoption. It is very sad (and I completely disagree with this practice), but if a dog shows food aggression in a shelter, it is often euthanized. This is unfortunate, because it is very possible to train food aggression out of a dog, if the dog is lucky enough to have someone willing to take the time to do so.

In order to correct this bad behavior, you have to understand why your dog feels the necessity to exhibit the behavior in the first place. Food aggression typically occurs when your dog feels that the food in her bowl (or the bone she is chewing on) actually belongs to her. In the wild wolf packs, the alpha males/females eat first. Then, they may allow lower dogs in the pack to eat some of the meal. The lower dogs in the pack understand that the food actually belongs to the alpha(s), and that they are only able to eat because the alpha(s) allow it. So, the solution here is obvious. You need to make your dog realize that all the food/bones/toys in the house actually belong to you. You are just allowing her to eat it/play with it.

To do this, you'll need to begin by changing the way you feed your dog. Initially, don't give her whole bowls of kibble at a time. Put dog food in her bowl and hold it your hand. Now, with your other hand, let her see you pick up some kibble & put it to your mouth. Act like you're eating it & let your dog think you are eating it. She may be shocked at first and wonder why in the world you are eating her food. Now, pick up some more kibble and give it to your dog. Let her eat it from your hand. Repeat the process until the food is gone & do this for a day or two. If your dog eats wet food, then just use a spoon instead of your fingers. Now, if you feel like your dog has made progress and no longer exhibits a "sense of entitlement", you can move on to the next step.

Put the bowl down for your dog to eat out of. Then, while she is eating out of the bowl, every-now-and-then use a spoon to stir the food/kibble inside (use a long-handled spoon if you're still a little worried about biting). If your dog growls, snaps, etc., pick up the bowl of food and take it away. Hold the bowl of food in your hands (out of the dog's reach) until she calms down or sits politely. Then you can put the bowl back down & let her eat out of it again. Repeat this process a couple of times during each meal until your dog learns that her possessive attitude toward the food is unacceptable.

If you have taught your dog how to sit/stay. Put her in that position before putting her food bowl down for her to eat out of. Don't allow her walk over to the bowl until you give her the release word & tell her it's now OK for her to eat. This again reinforces to her that the food belongs to you. I recommend doing this every meal throughout your dog's life. We do this with all three of our JS, even though the other two never showed any signs of becoming food-aggressive. It is simply an easy way to continually re-affirm our positions as the pack alphas.

I'm glad to say that it only took one or two feeding sessions for Geisha to realize the "pecking order" had changed. It only took about a week or so before all food aggression was completely gone. We can now stick our fingers in her bowl and play with her food while she is eating, and it doesn't effect her attitude or demeanor in the slightest. Sure, she's still a little diva, but a sweet diva we can deal with. :)

TEACHING BASIC COMMANDS - Entry #11 (Loose Leash Walking)

November 21, 2009

When little Ju-Ju was about six months old, she absolutely hated walking on a leash. She can be a stubborn little thing. The more we tugged on her leash, the more she would pull back. Eventually, she would just plop down and refuse to go any further. To combat this problem, we taught her how to loose-leash walk.

Japanese Spitz respond very well to praise and positive reinforcement, so with training a JS to do anything, be sure to use this method. When teaching very young or very stubborn puppies, you'll need to sweeten the deal a little by adding a very tasty treat to the mix. The treat should be something that you can cut into very small pieces (you'll be using a lot of them). I like to use bits of fat-free shredded cheese or small, diced pieces of a turkey hot dog. Don't use these treats for anything other than your training sessions because you'll want your puppy to stay excited about the possibility of getting to eat some of these treats.

Put these treats in a Ziploc bag & tie the bag to your belt loop or put it in your pocket. Make sure to put it on the same side of the body that your dog will be on. You'll need easy access to the treats, so leave the bag open. Now, that your prep work is done, slip a leash on the little guy let's get started.

First, stand beside your dog and hold the leash in your opposite hand. In other words, if your dog is on the right side of your body, hold the leash in your left hand. Now, using your right hand, show your dog the treat. Let him smell it, and then let him eat it. Do this just once. Now he knows what a good thing he's in for if he does what is asked of him.

Take another treat out of the bag and let him see it. Now, while holding the leash loosely with slack, say the words, "Lets go" and take a step or two forward, starting with the leg that is closest to your dog. Hopefully, he will walk with you, following the treat. If he does, give him the treat, pet him & praise him with lots of "Good boys!". If he doesn't follow, stop walking, bend down and and encourage him to come to you. When he does, give him the treat, petting and praise.

Repeat this process, slowly increasing the amount of steps you take between treats. Eventually, following beside you while on a leash will be common-nature to him.

Some important things to remember: (1) Begin your training session in an area your dog is familiar with, so there won't be any distractions. (2) Your dog may try to jump up on you to get the treat or for praise. If this happens, stop walking and correct him by firmly tell him "No". You don't want to encourage this behavior. Now, take a step forward. If he walks forward, give him the treat, petting & praise and resume the training session. (3) If your dog is young, he may get bored easily. Keep your training sessions short - no longer than 15 mins at a time, twice a day. (4) Always end your training sessions on a positive note.

Now, Ju-Ju loves her leash walks just as much as our other dogs. She even gets excited when she sees us pull her harness/leash out of the drawer because she knows a walk is in her immediate future. With a little patience, your dog will be just as eager to wear his leash and go on walks with you!

(A special thanks to little Shiro and his human companion, Simon, for suggesting this topic of discussion.)

A Doggie Thanksgiving Dinner

November 18, 209

Ahhhh. Just the thought of our upcoming family's Thanksgiving dinner makes my mouth water. So why should we humans enjoy all the tasty treats? Thanks to DogFancy magazine and The Healthy Dog Cookbook*, here is a recipe for a Thanksgiving dinner that your four-legged family members are sure to love:

You can create this tasty meal for your special friend using your cooked, skinless, turkey leftovers or by following the roasting instructions for uncooked turkey pieces.

Prep time:
30 minutes

Makes:
Nine 1-cup servings

Ingredients: 3 lbs skinless turkey pieces (light and dark meat)
1 c (about 6 oz) oatmeal
1 lb sweet potatoes, cubed
2 tbsp cranberry sauce
4 tbsp turkey gravy

Directions:
1) Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Lightly oil a roasting pan.
2) Roast turkey until meat juices run clear when pierced with a skewer. Boneless breast or thigh, 30-45 mins; boned breast or thigh, 45-60 mins. Let cool.
3) Remove all bones; dice meat into large pieces.
4) If using fresh sweet potatoes, roast with turkey for 25 - 30 mins or until tender. Let cool, then peel and dice.
5) Meanwhile, cook oatmeal according to package instructions.
6) Mix turkey meat, oatmeal, sweet potatoes, and cranberry sauce together. Pour gravy over the mixture.

Serving size:
Small dogs, 3/4 cup
Medium dogs, 1 1/2 cups
Larger or more active dogs, 3 cups

Be sure to follow this recipe exactly and not make any additions. Spices such as sage (commonly found in stuffing/dressing) can be poisonous to dogs.

* The Healthy Dog Cookbook: 50 Nutritious and Delicious Recipes Your Dog Will Love was published by TFH Publications, Inc. in 2008 © Ivy Press Ltd.

Four Legs and a Crowd: Keeping your dog safe when company calls

November 14, 2009

This time of year, company comes calling more often than usual, and resident dogs often need help dealing with holiday guests. Follow these tips to keep your dog safe:

• Brief your guests. Remind visitors of any rules you have regarding human-dog interactions, such as no jumping and no dogs on the beds. If your guests follow the rules, you'll save your dog a lot of confusion.


• Don't feed from the table. People food is not always safe for dogs, and inattentive guests may not know they're reinforcing bad behavior. This gives your dog the impression that yummy-smelling food on the table is simply there to be cadged by barking, jumping up and helping herself to a plate, says Penelope Brown, a dog trainer in Washington, D.C. Discourage such behavior by putting your four-legged friend's food in her own dish.


• Remove food from the counter. "As we teach our dogs not to counter surf by making alternative activities more rewarding, it's important not to tempt her to make a mistake," Brown says.


• Keep her away from the door. Frequent comings and goings give your dog too much opportunity to escape. Keep her in another room, or crate her during arrivals and departures.


• Don't force interactions. Some dogs aren't comfortable around people they don't know. If that's the case with your dog, don't expect her to be a genial canine host. Liz Palika, a trainer in Oceanside, CA, suggests making a safe, quiet place to which your dog can retreat when the crush of people or bustle of the holidays gets to be too much.

* The preceeding is courtesy of Susan McCullough for DogFancy magazine.

FIRST AID IN THE FIELD (Entry #8 - "Grass Seeds in the Eyes")

November 11, 2009

Grass seeds become common and prevalent during the autumn months. When your dogs are playing outside, they can brush up against tall grass seeds at eye-level. Unfortunately, the grass seeds can become stuck behind the dog's third eyelid. (The third eyelid is a clear, retractable protector that slides over the dog's eye.) Unfortunately, other than preventing your dog from running through brush, there is no fool-proof prevention. All you can do is to treat the injury if it occurs.

First, you'll need to assess whether your dog has a grass seed in her eye. If a seed is present, you'll notice your dog squinting while outside, or immediately after your dog comes indoors. If the squinting is there and if it persists, it is likely a grass seed is there. Now, it will need to be removed.

If you tend to get a little squeamish, if you don't have extremely steady hands, or if you are not confident that your dog will stay perfectly still during removal, it is best to take a quick trip to your veterinarian. If you plan to try to remove the seed yourself, you first need to apply an eye-numbing agent, such as Proparacaine, which your vet can provide.

Next, lift the third eyelid using tweezers. This is when steady hands, and your dog remaining perfectly still, will be necessary, as your dog's eye will be very vulnerable and easy to injure at this point. Now, carefully grab the grass seed with your fingertips, and remove it from your dog's eye. Make sure you do not push the seed along the eyeball with your finger, because scratching could occur.

If your dog's eye continues to water and/or if squinting persists, take your dog to the vet to be checked.

Toy Storage - Safer for you, More fun for Fido

November 7, 2009

Having worked in connection with the health care industry for almost a decade now, I've seen quite a few pet-related injuries. Unsurprisingly, most of these injuries occur while an individual is walking his/her dog (i.e., getting tangled in leash, tripping over dog, etc.). Only slightly less common are injuries that occur when an individual stumbles over doggie toys and bones, resulting in a falls. Occasionally, these falls prove be fatal if the individual falls down stairs or bumps his/her head.

This is one reason I am an advocate for doggie toy storage bins. When your furry friends aren't playing with the toys, you can put them in the bin to prevent you and your guests from tripping on them. In our home, we use a small wicker basket that we keep by our fireplace. The dogs have easy access to the toys and can retrieve them at any time.

Pia Silvani, certified dog trainer and animal behavior consultant, suggests dual toy storage: Allow only chew toys in the house. Keep raucous-time fetch toys outdoors, perhaps in a bin on the back porch. Not only is this orderly, but this way the dogs learn that when it's time for [rambunctious] play, we go outside.

Ms. Silvani's 1 year old puppy, Lena, initially picked up socks and shoes, as if they were toys. Lena now knows that when she wants to play or a chew toy, she must head to the toy bins. It is important to remember to rotate the toys that you keep in your bin(s). Just like children, puppies can get bored of playing with the same toys day in and day out. A constant rotation will keep your dogs interested and wondering, with each visit to ther bin, what toys will be waiting for them.

CARING FOR YOUR SENIOR (Entry #4 - "Respecting the Elders")

November 4, 2009

As your dog ages, other dogs within the household, dog park playmates, and unfamiliar dogs may become increasingly pushy or aggressive toward him. If you ignore or fail to notice these changing attitudes, your senior can suffer stress, serious injury or worse.

Dogs often view injured, sick, or older dogs as a liability to the pack. This reflects the vital role each pack member would play if dogs still hunted for food. Those unable to perform would be pushed aside or quickly dispatched.

Of course, many dogs remain amicable toward their seniors, but safety demands supervised interaction. If another dog forcefully bumps into, knocks down, or growls at your older dog, separate them immediately. Never leave your senior alone with an assertive dog or multiple dogs.

* The preceeding is courtesy of Chris Cox-Evick of DogFancy magazine.

Halloween Safety Tips

October 30, 2009

Pop quiz . . . Which holiday finds more pets straying or dying than any other holiday? According to Liam Crowe, the CEO of Bark Busters USA and dog behaviorist, the answer is Halloween. Yikes! Well, thanks to Bark Buster of Dogster's Dog Blog, here are ten tips that will help to ensure a safe Halloween for your furry little ghosts and goblins:

1. Don’t leave your dog outside. Even if you have a fenced yard, bring your dog inside where it is safe. If your dog is usually kept outside, bring him in a few times before the big night to get him used to being indoors. Your dog may be used to strangers, but so many little kids in costumes running about may be too much. Remember also that it is a natural instinct for dogs to protect the family from strangers, and on Halloween there will be no shortage of strangers.

2. Keep your dog restrained. If your dog is timid or scared, or if he tends to love people a little too much, it is best to put him in a separate room away from the front door to limit his excitability, aggression, and chance of running outside and becoming lost.
3. Reassure your dog. The best thing you can do for your dog when he is feeling unsettled by Halloween activities is to act as you normally would. By over-reassuring your dog or giving him an unusual amount of attention, you inadvertently can communicate to him that because you are acting differently, there must be something to worry about.
4. Have your dog get used to costumes. Your dog may see his family members as strangers once they don their Halloween costumes. Before the kids put them on, allow your dog to scent the costumes. If your costume has a mask, keep the mask off when you are with your dog because dogs can become confused when they can't see our faces.

5. Check your dog’s ID tag. Be sure identification tags are secure on your dog’s collar-just in case.

6. Keep candy away from your dog. Many candies-especially chocolate-are toxic to dogs. The severity of the toxicity depends greatly on factors such as breed, age, size, and how much candy was ingested. Problems may range from a mild upset tummy to vomiting and diarrhea, or even death. If you have any concerns at all, consult with a veterinarian immediately. If you want to keep your dog safe, make certain that sweets, including their wrappers, are kept well away from your dog.
7. Protect dogs from candles and pumpkins. Excited or agitated dogs can easily knock over a lit candle or pumpkin. Be sure those items are away from your dog’s reach, or consider a battery-powered candle that does not burn.
8. Think twice about dressing your dog in a costume. While some dogs might enjoy being dressed up, many don’t. Experiment first to see if your dog likes being in a costume. If so, fine-he’ll most likely enjoy himself and the extra attention it brings. However, if he shows any resistance, don’t do it. Dogs feel enough stress around Halloween without also having to endure the discomfort and peculiarity of wearing a strange costume.

9. Be prepared. If you take your dog with you while trick-or-treating, be prepared at all times. Do not let your dog approach the door of a house, and stay clear of possible gags or gangs of goblins who will gather at the door. Dogs do not understand that the person jumping out at you will not hurt you; they often think they can only help you by acting aggressively. Neither children nor adults in costumes should approach a dog without the owner’s consent.
10. Have fun but think of your dog’s safety. Finally, if you want your dog to be included in Halloween festivities, think about his safety much as you would the safety of a small child. Your dog does not understand Halloween, so he needs you to provide the guidance and safety that you always do.

Pumpkin Bones Recipe

October 28, 2009

Three Jacks Dog Bakery in Olmsted Falls, Ohio has a wonderful organic recipe sure to please our canine trick-or-treaters this Halloween. If you're too busy to bake these tasty treats, you can always purchase the doggie biscuits online at http://www.3jacksdogbakery.com/.

Ingredients
4 cups organic brown rice
2 organic eggs with shells
3/4 cup organic steel cut oats
1 cup organic canned pumpkin
1 teaspoon organic ground cinnamon
3/4 cup organic low-fat buttermilk
2 teaspoons organic ground rosemary
1 tablespoon organic blackstrap molasses
3/4 teaspoon sea salt
4 tablespoons organic shortening

Preparation
Mix dry ingredients in a large bowl. Mix liquid ingredients in food processor, leaving egg shells in. Combine wet and dry ingredients in bowl. Knead until well-mixed, about five minutes. Roll dough to 1/4-inch thickness on rice flour-covered pastry board. Cut with 1-inch, small-bone-shaped cutter. Bake at 325 degrees for 15 minutes, then for 10 minutes at 300 degrees, then for 10 more minutes at 250 degrees. This recipe makes about 320 pumpkin bones, depending on the size of your cookie cutter. Recipe may be cut in half.

CARING FOR YOUR SENIOR (Entry #3 - "Helping to Sooth Achy Joints")

October 24, 2009

According to Heidi Booth, DVM, dogs age differently, depending on their size, breed, health and genetic predisposition. In an interview with DogWorld magazine, Booth states, "In general, we consider dogs to be seniors around the age of 7; however, this does vary. Typically, smaller dogs (less than 20 pounds) live longer, not showing their age until 10 to 12 years. Medium-sized dogs (20 - 55 pounds) begin to age at 8 - 10 years; large dogs (55 to 10 pounds) at 6 - 8 years, and giant dogs (100 plus pounds) at age 5. "

Thankfully, Japanese spitzen fall right in between the small to medium size, so they tend to live at least twice as long as the giant breeds. So, when your JS does start to feel her age, one of the things she will probably feel first is an aching in her joints. Just like humans, dogs can suffer from arthritis, which can sometimes be debilitating. And, also like humans, the treatment of the symptoms are similar.

Lisa Hanks, a freelance writer from Newport Beach, California, offers some helpful insight on this topic:

An older dog naturally becomes more stiff and inflexible as its body, muscles and joints deteriorate. Watch your dog closely and identify which actions are difficult for it, then take measures to make them easier.

Achy joints often flare into arthritis. Difficulties standing up, walking on hard floors, jumping on the couch, climbing stairs or going for a walk, may mean arthritis has set in. You might also see a stiff gait and lameness, or grouchiness at being touched on the back or hips.

"Easing your dog's discomfort with soft beds, ramps to go up stairs and adequate room temperatures are a few ways to make movement easier on arthritic dogs," Heidi Booth says. Consider providing a heating pad or self-warming cushion to warm old joints, especially during cold weather.

The best ways to relieve arthritis pain are providing regular exercise and maintaining a healthy weight, as well as using prescribed anti-inflammatories, chondroitin, and other nutraceuticals and supplements. "Newer tools in the battle against arthritis are massage, acupuncture and hydrotherapy," Micah Kohles, DVM of Lincoln Nebraska states, "These can all provide a benefit, but must be initiated under the care of your veterinarian."

Keep your achy, arthritic dog warm and comfy with heated, orthopedic beds or therapeutic blankets. If you must go out in the wet and cold, put a coat or sweater on your dog. Make getting around the house easier by installing ramps to access the couch, bed and car, and by placing nonslip mats on slippery floors.

For advanced arthritis or hip problems that impede your dog's walking ability, invest in a support sling, harness or a rear-end cart. A stroller or bike trailer is a great way to take an impaired dog outside for fresh air. "Some-times dogs become wobbly on their feet, especially their hindquarters, and this can indicate muscle weakness or neurological degeneration." Booth says.

Before my BlackJacks passed away, he was given daily supplements, such as glucosamine with shark cartilage. This has been proven therapeutic for arthritis, and helps to slow it's progression. An occasional injection of an NSAID, such as Adequan, Rimadyl, Etogesic, Metacam, or Deramaxx, also works wonders - especially in cold weather when his joints may hurt slightly more than usual.

Unfortunately, there is no cure for arthritis, so the best we can do is try to treat the symptoms and make our furry loved ones as comfortable as possible.