The Truth about Poinsettias and Mistletoe

December 22, 2008

With Christmas just around the corner, I thought addressing traditional holiday plants might be appropriate. I'm sure we've all heard about the potential poisoning dangers that poinsettias hold for pets. However, they may not be quite as dangerous as first thought, according to the ASPCA:

Poinsettias (Euphorbia pulcherrima) are part of a family of plants known as spurges. During the 1820s Joel Robert Poinsett, the U.S. Ambassador to Mexico at the time, first brought poinsettias to the U.S. from a Mexican city he had visited. It was during the early part of the 20th century that the myth of the plant's toxicity began when the two-year-old child of a U.S. Army officer was alleged to have become ill and died from consuming a poinsettia leaf.

As a result of this rumor, the toxic potential of poinsettia has become highly exaggerated. In reality, poinsettia ingestions typically produce only mild to moderate gastrointestinal tract irritation, which may include drooling, vomiting and/or diarrhea. Therefore, while keeping this plant out of the reach of your pet to avoid stomach upset is still a good idea, pet owners need not fear the poinsettia and banish it from their homes for fear of a fatal exposure.

On the other hand, mistletoe, another popular yuletide decorative plant, can be extremely toxic to pets if eaten, according to the ASPCA:

American mistletoe (Phoradendron serotinum) is the most common species of mistletoe recognized as a symbol of the holiday season. It is actually a parasitic plant which lives off of a variety of different tree species, and can be found throughout the United States.

If ingested in large enough quantities, mistletoe has the potential to produce gastrointestinal irritation, excessive thirst and urination, incoordination, a drop in blood pressure and heart rate, and in severe cases, difficulty breathing, seizures, coma and even death. According to ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center data, however, most animal ingestions involve small quantities—not more than the amount found in a sprig or two—and typically result in mild stomach upset that resolves with little to no treatment.

If you think that your pet may have ingested a potentially poisonous substance, contact the Animal Poison Control Center at (888) 426-4435 or your local emergency vet.

The pictures listed in this entry are courtesy of BarfBlog and Wikimedia.

FDA Issues Warning About Chicken Jerky Products for Dogs

December 19, 2008

The following was posted today on FDA's website (http://www.fda.gov/cvm/CVM_Updates/ComplaintsChicJerky.htm):

The Food and Drug Administration (FDA) continues to caution consumers of a potential association between the development of illness in dogs and the consumption of chicken jerky products also described as chicken tenders, strips or treats. FDA continues to receive complaints of dogs experiencing illness that their owners or veterinarians associate with consumption of chicken jerky products. The chicken jerky products are imported to the U.S. from China. FDA issued a cautionary warning to consumers in September 2007.

Australian news organizations report the University of Sydney is also investigating an association between illness in dogs and the consumption of chicken jerky in Australia. At least one firm in Australia has recalled their chicken jerky product and the recall notification stated the chicken jerky product was manufactured in China.

FDA believes the continued trend of consumer complaints coupled with the information obtained from Australia warrants an additional reminder and animal health notification.

Chicken jerky products should not be substituted for a balanced diet and are intended to be used occasionally and in small quantities. Owners of small dogs must be especially careful to limit the amount of these products.

FDA, in addition to several veterinary diagnostic laboratories in the U.S, is working to determine why these products are associated with illness in dogs. To date, scientists have not been able to determine a definitive cause for the reported illnesses. FDA has conducted extensive chemical and microbial testing but has not identified any contaminant.

FDA is advising consumers who choose to feed their dogs chicken jerky products to watch their dogs closely for any or all of the following signs which may occur within hours to days of feeding the product: decreased appetite, although some may continue to consume the treats to the exclusion of other foods; decreased activity; vomiting; diarrhea, sometimes with blood; and increased water consumption and/or increased urination. If the dog shows any of these signs, stop feeding the chicken jerky product. Owners should consult their veterinarian if signs are severe or persist for more than 24 hours. Blood tests may indicate kidney failure (increased urea nitrogen and creatinine). Urine tests may indicate Fanconi syndrome (increased glucose). Although most dogs appear to recover, some reports to the FDA have involved dogs that have died.

The FDA continues to actively investigate the problem. Many of the illnesses reported may be the result of causes other than eating chicken jerky. Veterinarians and consumers alike should report cases of animal illness associated with pet foods to the FDA Consumer Complaint Coordinator http://www.fda.gov/opacom/backgrounders/complain.html in their state.

TEACHING BASIC COMMANDS - Entry #2 ("Sit")

Written December 8, 2008

Studies have shown that dogs can start learning basic commands as young as 8 weeks of age. However, puppies, like small children, have a short attention span. Because of this, it is best to teach commands in five - ten minute training sessions, two - three times per day, until your puppy fully understands and carries out the command you give. The use of positive reinforcement with a tasty treat will help your puppy learn quickly. From young to old, all dogs will be eager to work if the reward is enticing.

When training all ages of dogs, always remember - PATIENCE IS THE KEY. If your dog senses your frustration, he will also become frustrated. At all times, keep a positive attitude. Scolding your dog will only turn your dog off to the fun of these exercises. If you keep learning fun for your dog, he will be eager to learn everything you are willing to teach.

The “Sit” command is, without a doubt, the most practical command you can teach your dog. Additionally, “Sit” is a kind of gateway to other basic, but important commands you will want to teach your dog in the future, such as “Stay”, “Down” and “Come”.

Begin the training in a quiet environment, where your dog is less likely to be distracted. If your dog is very easily distracted by noises or smells, training indoors may be best. Now, face your dog and show him that you have a treat in your hand. Let him smell it and even lick it to let him know that a tasty goodie is in store for him.

Next, slowly move the treat just above his head so that he can barely reach it without lifting his front feet from the floor. Hold the treat directly above his head, just above his eyes, however, be sure not to hold the treat so high that your dog may be tempted to jump for it.

Now, say “Sit”. If your dog does sit, give him the treat and praise him excitedly. If he doesn’t sit immediately, wait 3 seconds and say “Sit” again. Repeat this process until your dog sits. As long as you continue to hold the treat in the correct position over your dog’s head, he will eventually sit, as he will get tired of looking up at such a hard angle.

If your pooch is a little hard-headed, and you have repeated the process in the above paragraph ten times with no result, gently touch your dog’s rump, lightly push for encouragement and repeat the command only once. Don’t push hard, as this can cause joint problems in the future. If the little guy still doesn’t sit, calmly stop the session, pet him a little on the head, and put the treat away for 3 or 4 minutes. Then try again. Don’t get frustrated. Remember - PATIENCE IS KEY! As with anything you teach your dog, always end your training sessions on a positive note. The more successful your dog feels, the more rewarding it will be for both of you.

Every time your dog does sit after you give the command, give the treat immediately and praise him excitedly. He will start to realize that when he’s standing, nothing happens, but when his little butt hits the floor, he gets the treat and everyone is happy!

Practice this command two - three times per day for about a week. Practice in other parts of the house and outside (i.e., in the garage or on the sidewalk). Once your dog has fully mastered this so that he responds every time regardless of the distractions around him, it’s time he learns to obey even if his only reward is your excited praise, rather than a treat. You may not always have a treat on you when you need your dog to sit. Gradually wean off the treats so that he gets them only every second or third time, always substituting lots of excited praise for the treat.

Once you are confident that your little dog has fully learned “Sit“, you are ready to teach your dog the “Stay” command.

Dangers to your Pets During the Christmas Holidays

Written December 2, 2008

Ah, yes, it's definitely the most wonderful time of the year! Have you bought your favorite pooch's present yet? There are less than 30 shopping days until Christmas. And with Christmas just around the corner, the ASPCA has compiled a list of the most common holiday hazards to your pets:

- Christmas tree water, which may contain fertilizers and bacteria that can upset the stomach if ingested

- Electrical cords

- Ribbons or tinsel, which can become lodged in the intestines and cause intestinal obstruction—this most often occurs with kittens

- Batteries

- Glass ornaments

- Of course, there are usually a lot of delicious goodies floating around during the holidays, too—be sure to keep human treats inaccessible to your pets.

OK, now that you have taken all precautions to keep your furry loved-ones safe this Christmas, you have more time to focus on more fun things.

MERRY CHRISTMAS EVERYONE!

TEACHING BASIC COMMANDS - Entry #1 ("LEAVE IT")

Written November, 2008

So, you have a new puppy. Or, maybe your puppy is not so much new, as it is just new to you . Whether your puppy is 8 weeks old, 8 months old or 8 years old, it is never too late to start teaching the little guy manners and basic commands. After all, it’s proven that practicing positive reinforcement training with your dog helps establish trust, as well as encourages strong bonds between you and your pooch.

Sami was 10 months old when we enrolled him in PetSmart’s Beginner Training class. We actually didn’t enroll him simply to learn the basic commands, which can be taught at home. We enrolled him because we realized the importance of continual socialization with other dogs and people. Sami can be a little “sensitive”. At times, it can be easy to hurt his feelings. If he gets into trouble and we correct him sternly, he immediately wants to make up. If we refuse to make up with him, he will sulk in a corner until we show him that he is forgiven. A perfect example of Sami’s sensitivity occurred during his obedience classes.

The command "Leave It" can be useful in a variety of ways. The command is typically used to tell your dog that he is to leave something alone - whether a piece of food you dropped on the floor while cooking, or another dog you and your dog happen to encounter while walking down the street. The command can also be used to distract your dog from doing what he is about to do. In other words, say your dog is about to potty in your flower bed, and you can tell this is about to happen by the way he is sniffing around your flowers. A stern "Leave It", should tell your pooch that this is not acceptable and he will walk away, looking for another spot to do his business.

Sami’s obedience teacher decided it was time to teach him the “Leave It” command. This is taught by sitting on the floor and placing a treat on the floor beside you. When your dog goes for the treat, you cover it up with your left hand to prevent him from getting it and sternly say “LEAVE IT”. Meanwhile, you are holding a second treat in your right hand, of which your dog is unaware. Repeat this process until eventually your dog will stop trying to get the treat when your left hand is not covering it. Once your dog no longer attempts to grab the treat on the floor and you no longer have to cover it with your left hand, reward your dog with the treat you’ve been holding in your right hand. Then remove the first treat from the floor and put it away. This method also works with other items that typically entice your dog, such as a favorite toy. It is extremely important to remember that you should NEVER reward your dog with the treat or item that you are using as bait on the floor. ONLY reward your dog with the treat that you have been hiding in your right hand.

Anyway, back to my Sami story. All of the dog owners in our obedience class were sitting in chairs, in a big circle, around the room. The obedience teacher was sitting in the floor in the middle of the room and called Sami over to her. I let go of Sami’s leash so he could meet her, while I stayed seated in my chair at the edge of the circle. The teacher proceeded to use the method above to teach Sami the “Leave It” command. However, the moment she sternly used the words “Leave It”, Sami immediately ran back to me, jumped in my lap with his back facing the teacher. He then turned his head around to look at her with a pouty face, as if he were telling me, “that mean lady over there yelled at me . . .” Everyone in the class, including the teacher thought this was adorable. Unfortunately, Sami refused to practice this command for the remainder of the class. Nevertheless, even with that minor setback, Sami passed the class with flying colors. I can honestly say that he learned his commands much quicker than his classmates. Michael and I were both extremely proud.



In each blog entry of the “Teaching Basic Commands” series, I will explain how to teach your dog various basic commands, such as “Leave It“ (as discussed in this entry), “Sit“, “Lay Down“, “Stay“, etc. It is important to remember that you should never punish your dog while teaching a command. Rather, you should use positive reinforcement by rewarding wanted behavior. If you have any questions regarding these training techniques or the positive reinforcement training method, please feel free to e-mail me at SweetSamuraiKennels@gmail.com.

Yet Another Reason Why Japanese Spitzen Are The Best . . .

Written November 19th, 2008

I just discovered that The Center for Disease Control has published a report on dog bite-related fatalities. To see the full report, click here: http://ftp.cdc.gov/pub/Publications/mmwr/wk/mm4621.pdf).

The list is comprised of the following breeds:

- "Pit Bull"
- Rottweiler
- German shepherd
- "Husky"
- Alaskan malamute
- Doberman Pinscher
- Chow Chow
- Great Dane
- St. Bernard
- Akita

Not surprisingly, the Japanese Spitz is no where to be found! So, what have we learned? Hmmm...

Tasty Dog Treat Recipes

Written November, 2008

With the recent scares about commercial dog food, I became interested in making our own dog food. I made numerous failed attempts, and now we’re back to commercial food. However, I did discover some tasty dog treat recipes that the dogs seem to love! One of the benefits of making your own dog treats is that you control the ingredients. You can be sure that you are feeding your dog something that is natural and healthy - unlike most commercial dog treats.

Please note that like any other treat, these should be given in moderation, in conjunction with a healthy nutritional diet. These treats are great to use for positive reinforcement training in order to encourage good behavior.

Below are some tasty treat recipes that I’m sure your furry friend will enjoy:

Crunchy Peanut Butter Dog Cookies
Ingredient List:
1 cup (250 ml) dry oats
2 cups (500 ml) whole wheat flour
1 cup (250 ml) all-natural peanut butter
1 cup (250 ml) water
1/4 cup (60 ml) canola oil
1 egg, beaten (or Egg Beaters, equiv. to 1 egg)

Preheat oven to 350°F (180° C). Mix all of the ingredients together in a fairly large bowl. Sprinkle a bit of flour over a flat, clean surface, and roll the mixture out over the flour to about ¾” (2 mm) thickness. Use dog-themed cookie cutters or simply cut into rectangles and place on a lightly greased cookie sheet. Cook first for 20 minutes on one side and then flip the treats over and cook an additional 20 minutes. Remove to cooling racks and let dry out thoroughly. Treats are ready after about two hours.

Veggie-Dog Mini Muffins
Ingredient List:
1 apple, cored and shredded
2 cups (480 ml) carrots, shredded
1/3 cup (100 ml) molasses
1/4 cup (60 ml) water
1 cup (250 ml) flax seed
1/4 cup (60 ml) dry oats
3/4 cup (200 ml) whole wheat flour

Combine all ingredients in a large bowl. If the shredded carrots and apple are too wet, add some of the dry ingredients to the mixture until it is a thick batter. Lightly grease mini muffin tins and spoon the mixture into the compartments until they are about ¾ of the way full and bake for 15 minutes at 400ºF(200ºC) or until browned.

Chicken Yummies For Your Dog
Ingredient List:
1 lb. (450 grams) chicken giblets
1/2 cup (125 ml) of the broth reserved from boiling the chicken giblets
3 T (45ml) olive oil
3 eggs, beaten (or Egg Beaters, equiv. to 3 eggs)
1 cup (250 ml) whole wheat flour
1 cup (250 ml) regular flour
1 cup (250) cornmeal

In a large saucepan. bring 1 quart (1 liter) water to a boil and cook chicken giblets until done. In a blender, combine the cooked giblets, the reserved ½ cup (125 ml) of stock, olive oil and eggs . Blend until mixed well, but still a little chunky. Pour mixture into a large mixing bowl and add in the last three dry ingredients. Drop spoonfuls of the mixture onto greased cookie sheets and bake at 450° F (230° C) for 20 minutes. Freeze in a container in the freezer and take out as needed, storing for up to three days in the refrigerator.


Here are some simple and natural treats your dog may enjoy. However, always remember to wash all fruits and vegetables thoroughly and remove seeds and pits before treating your dog. Many seeds and pits are toxic, if eaten. If your dog doesn’t like fruit, try adding a dab of all-natural peanut butter. This should create a treat that is hard for your little friend to resist.

Simple Natural Treats:
apple slices
strawberry tops
peach slices
red bell peppers
green bell peppers
romaine lettuce
watermelon

As tempting as it may be to feed your little friend human food. Just remember that many things people can eat are not safe for dogs. For a list of just some of the foods that are toxic to dogs, please visit http://www.lacetoleather.com/fataltodogs.html.

Disclaimer: The information contained in this site is general in nature and has been researched and compiled from a variety of sources. It is not a substitute for professional veterinary care, and is not meant to replace the advice of veterinary care professionals. If you have specific veterinary needs, or for complete information about your dog(s), please see a veterinarian. Readers of this blog agree that Sweet Samurai Kennels, nor its owners have any liability with respect to any actions taken as a result of or in connection with viewing any information contained on this site. You agree to use this site and the information presented at your own risk. Some areas of our site may provide links to other external sites that we don't own, control or influence. We reference sites that we think might be useful or of interest to you, but we are not responsible for the content or privacy practices used by other site owners. Information contained in the external sites is not endorsed by Sweet Samurai Kennels, nor its owners. It is simply offered as a service to our visitors.

To Crate-Train or Not To Crate-Train?

Written November, 2008

Probably all dog-owners have been told at one time or another that crate-training is a wonderful thing . . . that it not only helps to potty-train your puppy faster, but also that your dog will grow to love the crate and will eventually consider it his/her own personal “den”. Even so, neither Michael nor I could get over the fear that it seemed a little to close to “cruel and unusual” punishment. So, when we decided to bring little 8 week old Geisha home for the first time, we felt confident that keeping her in the back bathroom with a baby gate would suffice. After all, Michael and I have had dogs all of our lives and have never crate trained. Geisha’s bed, food and water bowls would be in the bathroom with her. We were sure it would be fine. Right?

WRONG! Never in my life would I have thought that such an angelic-looking sweetheart could cause so much damage. It didn’t start until she was about 11 weeks old. Michael woke up one morning and went to get Geisha out of the bathroom in order to take her outside for her morning potty break. I was in the kitchen getting the dogs’ breakfast ready. “VALERIE!!!!!!!!”, I hear Michael yell, “COME LOOK AT WHAT SHE HAS DONE!!!!” What our sweet little angel had done was chew a hole through the sheet rock in the wall.

Now Michael and I don’t live in a mansion, by any means. But we are very proud of our home. It was newly built when we got married, and we were very blessed to get it. We spent many hours and dollars decorating and painting the house to make it suit our personalities. So, when Geisha, the puppy who stole our hearts from the very first moment we saw her, proceeded to damage something we had put so much energy into, we were just a little upset. In the following months, when our precious Geisha chewed through more walls, cabinets, carpeting, window sills and door frames, we were A LOT upset. It took Geisha about a year to get out of her “chewing” phase. And now that she is about 2 ½ years old, she has full roam of the house, even when we are not at home. She has long-since proven that she is trust-worthy. Experience has now taught us that Geisha’s need to chew grew with each item destroyed . . . A vicious cycle.

When the time came for us to bring Sami home, there was no question in either of our minds. Oh yes, we were going to crate-train. Michael bought the second biggest wire-crate that Wal-Mart had to offer. We brought home our little 6 pound, 8 week old puppy and introduced him to his new “bedroom”. His bed was kept in the crate, as well as his food and water bowls, which were fastened to the sides so he couldn’t tip them over. As it turned out, all of the crate-training advocates actually knew what they were talking about. Sami was potty-trained in about ½ the time as Geisha (though some of that may be contributed to a change in our potty-training methods). More importantly, Sami is now about 1 ½ years old and we have never had a chewing problem with him. In conjunction with our “vicious cycle” theory, we feel that since he never had the opportunity to learn how much fun chewing up our home and furniture could be, he never developed that vigorous need for chewing. As a result, he seemed to come through his “chewing” phase much quicker. We are training Ju-Ju in this same way, and she is also much less of a chewer than Geisha was.

In summary, please crate-train! I promise it will make for a much happier home life!


A Few Basic Crate Training Rules (as given by the Delaware Puppy Rescue Group)

- A crate should never be used as punishment.

- A puppy should never be confined to a crate for longer than 3 or 4 hours when you are not home.

- If you purchase a large crate that will fit your puppy when it is full grown, then you should partition off part of it so that puppy doesn't have too much room. If the crate is too large, puppy will use it to go potty.

- Move the crate from room to room with you and allow puppy to sleep in it's crate in your bedroom at night. This gives them a sense of security and they will settle down much more quickly knowing you are right there.

A key ingredient in crate training is to make it fun for the puppy. Do this by putting some treats in the crate and letting puppy find them. Toss the treat into the crate and when puppy goes in to get it, praise GOOD DOG....GOOD PUPPY! Once in a while when puppy goes into crate to retrieve the treat, close the door for a few minutes. If puppy is nice and quiet say GOOD PUPPY. However, if puppy is making a ruckus - IGNORE. When puppy settles down, say GOOD PUPPY and then open the crate door.

Remember...make this fun. It should never be a form of punishment!

Crate training is a wonderful way to help you housebreak your puppy. Puppies will avoid using their "den" as a place to go potty. Immediately upon taking puppy out of the crate bring it outside to relieve itself.....DO NOT stop to play with it first! Once puppy has relieved itself outside give lots of praise! Praise so much that your neighbors will think you have lost your mind!!! As soon as you feel confident that puppy is "empty" you can then return to the house and have some play time or whatever.

Remember....puppies have next to no bladder or bowel control. What goes in one end very quickly comes out the other. So when you feed them, immediately take them out to go potty and when they go LOTS OF PRAISE. When you take them out to potty use the same phrase each time. Something like "potty" or "hurry" works well.

As I mentioned above, you cannot restrict a puppy to a crate for more than 3 or 4 hours at a time when you are not with them. If you work away from home all day (as most people do) you could try to enlist a neighbor to come and take puppy out several times a day. There are also pet walkers you could hire to do this.

Working people should consider using an X-Pen in addition to a crate for during the day. The X-Pen can be set up in say the kitchen with the crate (with door open) in one corner of the pen. If no one will be taking puppy out during the day you will have to "paper train" in part of the X-Pen. Puppy then will have a larger area to exercise in and can still use his/her crate for taking naps.

Puppies should not be trusted to have free run of your home. There are too many things they can get into -- things that can hurt them and destroy your property at the same time. When you are busy you can either crate the puppy or tether it's leash to you so that you are constantly aware of what puppy is doing. Use constant commands and phrases such as "settle down" or "easy" when puppy is acting too wild.

If you are busy and decided to crate puppy, try putting the crate in the same room with you. That way puppy doesn't feel like it's being punished and can keep an eye on you at the same time. At bedtime put puppy's crate in the bedroom with you. Puppies that are allowed to sleep with their humans tend to settle down much more quickly. Plus...when puppy needs to go potty in the middle of the night you will be able to hear their call.

Crate training has many additional benefits. If you plan on taking your puppy/dog with you on vacations being able to tell a hotel/motel innkeeper that your dog will be in it's crate when you are not in the room is a big plus!

By: Helen T. Redlus

ASPCA's Top Ten Cold Weather Tips

November, 2008 (Taken from ASPCA's website)

Brrrr…it’s cold outside! The following guidelines will help you protect your companion animals when the mercury dips.

1. Keep your cat inside. Outdoors, felines can freeze, become lost or be stolen, injured or killed. Cats who are allowed to stray are exposed to infectious diseases, including rabies, from other cats, dogs and wildlife.

2. During the winter, outdoor cats sometimes sleep under the hoods of cars. When the motor is started, the cat can be injured or killed by the fan belt. If there are outdoor cats in your area, bang loudly on the car hood before starting the engine to give the cat a chance to escape.

3. Never let your dog off the leash on snow or ice, especially during a snowstorm—dogs can lose their scent and easily become lost. More dogs are lost during the winter than during any other season, so make sure yours always wears ID tags.

4. Thoroughly wipe off your dog's legs and stomach when he comes in out of the sleet, snow or ice. He can ingest salt, antifreeze or other potentially dangerous chemicals while licking his paws, and his paw pads may also bleed from snow or encrusted ice.

5. Never shave your dog down to the skin in winter, as a longer coat will provide more warmth. When you bathe your dog in the colder months, be sure to completely dry him before taking him out for a walk. Own a short-haired breed? Consider getting him a coat or sweater with a high collar or turtleneck with coverage from the base of the tail to the belly. For many dogs, this is regulation winter wear.

6. Never leave your dog or cat alone in a car during cold weather. A car can act as a refrigerator in the winter, holding in the cold and causing the animal to freeze to death.

7. Puppies do not tolerate the cold as well as adult dogs, and may be difficult to housebreak during the winter. If your puppy appears to be sensitive to the weather, you may opt to paper-train him inside. If your dog is sensitive to the cold due to age, illness or breed type, take him outdoors only to relieve himself.

8. Does your dog spend a lot of time engaged in outdoor activities? Increase his supply of food, particularly protein, to keep him—and his fur—in tip-top shape.

9. Like coolant, antifreeze is a lethal poison for dogs and cats. Be sure to thoroughly clean up any spills from your vehicle, and consider using products that contain propylene glycol rather than ethylene glycol. Visit the ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center more information.

10. Make sure your companion animal has a warm place to sleep, off the floor and away from all drafts. A cozy dog or cat bed with a warm blanket or pillow is perfect.

ASPCA's Thanksgiving Safety Tips for Pets

November, 2008 (taken from ASPCA's website)

Friends, family and feasts—the main ingredients for holiday fun can actually result in distress for pets. Not only can too many table scraps set furry tummies a-rumble, but many animals get anxious at the change in household routine. Says the ASPCA’s Dr. Steven Hansen, Senior Vice President, Animal Health Services, which includes the ASPCA’s Animal Poison Control Center in Urbana, IL, “As you begin to prepare for a festive season, remember to be wary of activities that can be potentially dangerous to pets.”

The following safety tips will help to ensure a safe and fulfilling Thanksgiving for you and your pets:

Talkin’ Turkey: Giving your pets a little nibble of turkey is okay, just be sure that it’s boneless and fully cooked. Raw or undercooked turkey may contain salmonella bacteria, and dogs can choke on bones, which splinter easily.

A Feast Fit for a Kong: While the humans are chowing down, give your cat and dog their own little feast. Stuff their usual dinner—with a few added bits of turkey, dribbles of gravy or vegetables like sweet potato and green beans—inside a Kong toy. They’ll be happily occupied trying to get their meal out, and way too busy to come begging for table scraps.

Sage Advice: This peppery herb makes stuffing taste delish, but sage also contains essential oils and resins that can cause pets to suffer stomach upset and possible depression of the central nervous system.

Battery Power: The holiday season means lots of cameras, radios and other battery-operated electronics. Please don’t leave batteries lying around. If swallowed, they can cause choking or obstruction; if punctured, the chemicals in alkaline batteries can cause burns to the mouth and esophagus.

No Bread Dough: Don't spoil your pet’s holiday by giving him raw bread dough. According to ASPCA experts, when raw bread dough is ingested, an animal's body heat causes the dough to rise in his stomach. As it expands, the pet may experience vomiting, severe abdominal pain and bloating, which could become a life-threatening emergency, requiring surgery.

Don't Let Them Eat Cake: If you’re baking up Thanksgiving cakes, be sure your pets keep their noses out of the batter, especially if it includes raw eggs—they could contain salmonella bacteria that may lead to food poisoning.

Too Much of a Good Thing: A few small boneless pieces of cooked turkey, a taste of mashed potato or even a lick of pumpkin pie shouldn’t pose a problem. However, don't allow your pets to overindulge, as they could wind up with a case of stomach upset, diarrhea or even worse—an inflammatory condition of the pancreas known as pancreatitis. In fact, it’s best keep pets on their regular diets during the holidays.

Pets won’t be so thankful if they munch on undercooked turkey or a pet-unfriendly floral arrangement, or if they stumble upon an unattended alcoholic drink. Keep all of the above in mind and you and your pet should have a very happy Thanksgiving!

Halloween, 2008

Written October, 31, 2008

Halloween at our house this year was definitely fun. I had bought little costumes for the dogs a month ago. I know some people, like my husband, father and Jay Leno, are very much against dressing up dogs. I agree to a certain extent. I am NOT the kind of person that views a dog as an accessory or a doll. However, occasionally the idea of putting our dogs in cute little outfits is just so hard to resist.

BlackJacks, at 13 years old, elected not to participate. Sami was dressed as a little devil. He was the only one of our dogs that really seemed to enjoy wearing his costume. Ju-Ju was dressed as a clown first, but she didn't really like the hat, so she switched to her vampire costume. Geisha was a princess (yes, that is a little doggie wig she is wearing) and she HATED it. You can tell this by the picture. So, needless to say, she only wore the costume long enough for us to take a couple of pictures. Maybe I'll only dress Sami up next year . . .

Why a Japanese Spitz?

Written September, 2008

I’m often asked why my husband and I chose, out of all the dog breeds in the world, such a rare and hard-to-find breed as a Japanese Spitz. The answer is easy - the Japanese Spitz is quite simply the best dog in the world. Ok, so I admit that I may be just a little biased. Our dogs are, after all, our children. But just spend a week with one and see if you don’t agree. Or ask my mother-in-law. She kept Geisha for a week once and fell head over heels in love. She now has her own JS and a standing invitation for any of ours to come over for a play date. We hesitate to leave them over there for any longer than that because we have a hard time getting them back! Both Michael (my husband) and I have had dogs all of our lives. When Michael and I married in 2002, I brought with me my 7 year old black lab, affectionately named “BlackJacks” (he is a black lab, my maiden name was Jacks - you get it . . .).

Anyway, I think anyone who has ever owned a lab can tell you how incredibly sweet, loyal, and eager to please they are. What they may not mention is how messy they are! Seriously, BlackJacks, though I love him almost as much as my husband, is unbelievably messy and an absolute shedding machine!!! Two days without vacuuming and we have tumbleweeds of hair blowing through our living room . . . Clean-up after bathing BlackJacks in our bathtub consists of wiping off loose hairs that were strewn all over the walls and ceiling from his post-bath shimmy. What lab owners also may neglect to mention are the dangers of the dreaded Labrador tail. Many a glass and knick-knack has met its peril due to this treacherous appendage. But even though he is a big Pig-Pen, I love him and can’t imagine our home without him.

So, when BlackJacks had a cancer scare in 2005, it dawned on me that having another dog in the family might not be such a bad idea. Not that another dog could ever take the place of my beloved ninety-pound wrecking ball, but it might ease my grieving process. At this time my husband and I were preparing to start a “human” family and we knew that BlackJacks needed to get used to sharing our affections with something smaller.

Michael, a dog breed expert in his own right, learned of the Japanese Spitz a decade earlier. At that time, it was nearly impossible to locate a breeder in the United States. Nevertheless, he described this breed to me. Incredibly beautiful and with a wonderful nature, they are considered a low-maintenance breed (seriously, dirt will NOT stick to their coats and they almost never have any odor)! They won’t shed as long as you brush them once a week. They are hypo-allergenic (did I mention I also get weekly allergy shots?), and they are even more affectionate than a Labrador. On top of all this, their tails curl over their back so no danger of collateral damage. Oh yes, I was SOLD!

It took a few months of searching for a reputable U.S. breeder, and then another few months waiting for puppies to be born, but on May 22, 2006, I flew to North Carolina to bring home a little girl that, unbeknownst to us, would melt our hearts and rock our world. Our little Geisha Girl was 8 weeks old and ready to meet us for the very first time.

Geisha is currently 2 ½ years old, and even now, one of her favorite things is to fall asleep in my arms while being cradled on her back like a baby. She’s had her moments (I‘ll blog more about that later), but a more sweet-natured dog, you will never meet. OK, that is not exactly true. Let me rephrase - Geisha is probably the second sweetest dog you will ever meet. The sweetest dog is our little Sami.

After having Geisha for a year, we were so in love with Japanese Spitzen that we just HAD to have another one! So, on August 19, a couple of days after our fifth wedding anniversary, Michael and I flew to Swift Creek Kennels, by way of Atlanta, to pick up Sweet Samurai, or “Sami”, as we call him. What a sweetheart! My husband often says that he has never had a dog look at him so adoringly!

One more year later, Sami and Geisha had their first litter. It didn’t take us long to realize how easily we were becoming attached to these angelic little puppies. Michael and I both knew we would have a hard time letting them go at 8 weeks old. And that is how we came to get Ju-Ju (Lady Jujitsu). She was born in Rhode Island exactly one week (to the day) after our litter. She helped us immeasurably as, one-by-one, we watched our baby’s babies go to their new homes.

So, here we are - one big happy family of six!!!