Tasty Christmas Goodie Recipies for Your Dogs

December 24, 2009

If you're at all like me, you love baking Christmas cookies. And, if your dogs are like mine, they sit patiently in kitchen, puppy-dog eyes HUGE with excitement, drooling in hopes and anticipation of their mommy (me) accidentally dropping a tasty scrap of some food on the floor.

Well, imagine your dog's excite when she discovers that the cookies you've been making in the kitchen this whole time are actually treats for her! That's right! Why should people get to eat all the wonderful, edible treats this time of year? Here are two special recipes for doggie Christmas treats that your pooch is sure to love:

Doggie Christmas Cake Ingredients:
2 cups of whole wheat flour
¼ cup of wheat germ
2 teaspoons of baking powder
1 teaspoons of ground cinnamon
1 cup of molasses
½ cup of canola oil
2 eggs
1 teaspoon of vanilla extract
1 apple, cored and chopped

Directions: Preheat the oven to 350 degrees F. Oil a 12-cup bundt pan with vegetable oil and flour. In a bowl mix the flour, wheat germ, baking powder, and cinnamon together and set it on the side. Then in another large bowl mix together the molasses, and oil, then add in the eggs one by one, and beat them until they blend in. then add in the vanilla along with ½ cup of water. Add the flour mixture to the wet mixture and mix it well until it becomes smooth. Then fold in the chopped apple pieces.

Put the batter into the pan and place in the oven. Bake for around 30 to 40 minutes or until when inserting a toothpick in the center of a cake it comes out clean. Once done allow the cakes to cool completely before serving.

Peanut Butter Slice and Bake Biscuits
Ingredients:
1 cup whole wheat flour
¾ cup smooth peanut butter
½ cup water
2 tablespoons molasses
2 tsp plain wheat germ
¼ tsp sea salt
¼ cup shredded dried beef, saved for top of cookies

Directions:
Pre-heat oven to 375°.
In a pot on top of the stove, place your peanut butter, molasses, water, wheat germ and salt. Warm at medium heat.
Melt the ingredients together, whisking quickly.
Once melted and smooth, take the peanut butter mixture, which should now be nearly liquid, and put in a small bowl.
Measure your flour into a large mixing bowl, and fold in your liquid mixture slowly until your dough is soft. Be sure to have a well-floured board ready to go!
Once you have your dough mixed to the consistency you desire, turn it onto your floured board, roll it into a log shape. Place it in the refrigerator for two hours, until your dough is hard enough to slice into ¼-inch sections. If you are in a real rush, you can place it in the freezer for ½ hour until firm.

Have a cookie sheet ready to go, and spray it lightly with a non-stick spray.
Place your slice and bake cookies on the cookie sheet.
Put the dried beef in a blender or food processor to chop it.
Sprinkle the top of each cookie with your shredded, dried beef.
Bake for 25 minutes. Turn off the oven and let your cookies dry out as the oven cools down. This will make them hard and help keep them fresh. It will also bring out the flavor and make it more intense.

Once your cookies have completely cooled, it is time to place them in an air-tight container. You can either gift wrap them if you are giving them as a gift, or store them in your freezer up to three months until you are ready to serve them. You can also store them in the refrigerator for up to two weeks.
To save time in a pinch, you can also make the dough and freeze it for up to three months until you are ready to use it. I love these slice and bake treats because they are fun, fast and, most of all, easy!

Be sure to include these tasty recipes when you are doing your Christmas baking this year. Your family dog will thank you!

Dogster's Top Ten "Weird" Holiday Presents for your Pooch

December 22, 2009

According to a recent survey, more than 80 percent of dog people will be giving their pooches presents this holiday season. Most will be presenting their dogs with treats and chew toys and other standard doggy fare. But what about dogs who like to think outside the box, or the dog who has everything? You’re in luck! We’ve sniffed long and hard for the most unique and/or oddball gifts for dogs. Get your favorite pooches any of these, and we can pretty much guarantee no other dogs on the block will have one. (And depending on the gift, the other dogs on the block may be very happy about this…)

Chicken-scented bubble dispenser – There’s nothing like chicken-scented bubbles floating around your house during the holidays to add to the festive mood — and sticky, smelly walls and floors. Dogs love chasing around the colorful bubbles (even if dogs are colorblind), and you get lots of exercise washing walls and mopping floors. (This one is probably best used outside, as it turns out.)
GPS collar – Humiliating beyond belief for dogs who are known for getting lost. Wearing a GPS collar is akin to your dog carrying a sign saying, “I have absolutely no sense of direction. I am a complete moron!” Besides, most dogs don’t know the first thing about using a GPS.

DNA test kit – The perfect gift for the mutt who’s sick of being called a “lab mix” or worse yet, “Heinz 57.” The test comes in two versions: A do-it-yourself cheek swab, which is less expensive and fairly accurate. Or a more accurate and pricey version, which involves a blood test. And isn’t a visit to the vet to get a blood test just what every dog wants for Christmas?
Dog painting kit — No, you do not paint your dog with this. Your dog paints masterpieces! As you could see from a high-strung canine artist who appeared on The Tonight Show the other night, every dog has an inner artist, and if his inner artist has a marketing genius for an owner, the inner artist will make the owner a lot of money.
Beer opener collar – Because nothing says “My owner is an idiot” better than being forced to wear a collar with its very own beer bottle opener. They come in two varieties. One is a little more classy, if you can say such a think about a beer bottle opener collar.
The other is, well, just watch this video for Bark 4 Beer collars.
Goggles – What dog wouldn’t want to look fashion forward and protect her vision from those nasty UV rays at the same time? Sunglasses fall off, but goggles don’t. (Sorry dogs…) There are likely about six dogs on earth who would consent to wear these things, including the poor dear above, but you have to give the company credit for trying.

Chewy shoe toy – Because nothing sends mixed messages about eating footwear like giving your dog a rubber sole to gnaw.
Chewy bra toy – Ditto, only in the underwear department. And this comes with two squeakers.
Dog armoire – The perfect gift for the wee dog who’s getting tired of picking out her fashion choices from a heap on the floor.

Talking treat ball – The idea behind the Talk to Me Treat Ball is that you record your voice in the ball, and when your dog noses the ball around to seek out the hidden treats, your voice is activated, bringing comfort and joy. Some dogs may indeed like this, but it might freak out other dogs who wonder how to get their suddenly shrunken person out of the rolling ball before the treats crush them.

** A special thanks to Maria Goodavage of Dogster.com for this story**

"Welcome" Card for Guests

December 19, 2009

Christmas is the season when our homes are typically full of guests, many of whom may be overnight guests. Unfortunately, individuals who are not used to staying in your home may not understand the doggy care"dos and don'ts" that are second-nature for your immediate family. A good way to help holiday guests learn a few guidelines for taking care of the family dog, is by printing out this adorable card to leave in guests’ rooms. It will remind them of things they can do to keep your family pet safe.

To print out a copy of the card, click here: http://www.dogchannel.com/images/media/pdfs/xmasDFDC.pdf

ASPCA Air Travel Tips

December 17, 2009

As Christmas approaches, many of us will be traveling to visit family and friends. No doubt, many will be taking our furry famliy members with us. If choosing to fly, the ASPCA has provided ten tips to ensure safe air travel for your pet.

The ASPCA urges pet owners to think twice about flying their pets on commercial airlines, especially if they plan on checking them in as cargo. Unless your animal is small enough to fit under your seat and you can bring him or her in the cabin, the ASPCA recommends pet owners to not fly their animal. If pet owners have already committed to transporting their pets on commercial airlines, the ASPCA is offering the following top ten tips for safe air travel with your pet:

Make an appointment with your pet's veterinarian for a checkup, and make sure all vaccinations are up-to-date. Obtain a health certificate from your veterinarian dated within 10 days of departure. For travel outside of the continental United States, additional planning and health care requirements may be necessary. Contact the foreign office of the country you are traveling to for more information.

Make sure your pet has a microchip for identification and is wearing a collar and ID tag. Breakaway collars are best for cats. The collar should also include destination information in case your pet escapes.

Book a direct flight whenever possible. This will decrease the chances that your pet is left on the tarmac during extreme weather conditions or mishandled by baggage personnel.

Purchase a USDA-approved shipping crate that is large enough for your pet to stand, sit and turn around in comfortably. Shipping crates can be purchased from many pet supply stores and airlines.

Write the words "Live Animal" in letters at least one inch tall on top of and at least one side of the crate. Use arrows to prominently indicate the upright position of the crate. On the top of the crate, write the name, address and telephone number of your pet's destination point, and whether you will be accompanying him or if someone else is picking him up. Make sure that the door is securely closed, but not locked, so that airline personnel can open it in case of an emergency. Line the crate bottom with some type of bedding—shredded paper or towels— to absorb accidents.

Affix a current photograph of your pet to the top of the crate for identification purposes. Should your pet escape from the carrier, this could be a lifesaver. You should also carry a photograph of your pet.

The night before you leave, make sure you’ve frozen a small dish or tray of water for your pet. This way, it can’t spill during loading, and will melt by the time he’s thirsty. Tape a small pouch, preferably cloth, of dried food outside the crate. Airline personnel will be able to feed your pet in case he gets hungry on long-distance flights or a layover.

Tranquilizing your pet is generally not recommended, as it could hamper his breathing. Check with your veterinarian first.

Tell every airline employee you encounter, on the ground and in the air, that you are traveling with a pet in the cargo hold. This way, they’ll be ready if any additional considerations or attention is needed.

If the plane is delayed, or if you have any concerns about the welfare of your pet, insist that airline personnel check the animal whenever feasible. In certain situations, removing the animal from the cargo hold and deplaneing may be warranted.

Traveling can be highly stressful, both for you and the four-legged members of your family. But with thoughtful preparation, you can ensure a safe and comfortable trip for everyone.

Can Dogs get the Swine Flu? (***UPDATE***)

December 1, 2009

In October, I posted about dogs and the Swine Flu. Since that time, the virus has morphed and can now be transmitted to household pets, including those of the canine and feline variety. Today, I discovered an article about a few dogs testing positive in China. The article further states that dogs from various countries, including the U.S., have also tested positive for the virus.

Here are the details from Red Orbit.

China’s Ministry of Agriculture has called for intensified monitoring and investigation of A/H1N1 flu in animals after two samples from sick dogs tested positive for the virus, according to a recent AFP report. The veterinary clinic of College of Veterinary Medicine at the China Agricultural University reported Wednesday that two out of 52 samples from sick dogs tested positive for A/H1N1 flu virus, the ministry said late Friday. Countries including the U.S., Canada and Chile have already reported cases of animals testing positive for the virus. An Iowa state cat was diagnosed with H1N1 at the beginning of the month, being the first known case in the world of the strain spreading to the feline population.

The American Veterinary Medical Association is a great resource for breaking developments in the matter of swine flu in pets. It’s a good idea to bookmark it and check it regularly if you are interested in the subject.

The best way to ensure your dogs don't get sick, is to do all you can to keep the members of our household from getting sick. Here are some tips to help you with this:

• Wash your hands often
• Cover you nose and mouth if you sneeze or if someone around you does
• Be sure to eat a balanced diet ~Exercise (which you should already be doing with your dog)
• Stay hydrated, drink your fluids especially water, try drinking lemon water its good for your immune system, and you might like it.
• Get a full night sleep
• Take your vitamins, like vitamin C
• There is also a variety of food that you can eat to help you boost your immune system.

As always, if you feel your dog is sick, contact your veterinarian.

Training Out Food Aggression

November 25, 2009

We really spoiled our little Geisha (our very first JS) when we got her. For the first year of her life, she got everything she wanted - Every kind of pampering imaginable, every type of tasty food/treat available. When she wanted something, the word "No" was rarely used. We had no idea how easily this breed takes to spoiling, and we unintentionally created quite the diva.

It was after she turned a year old that she exhibited the first signs of food aggression. One day after a shopping trip, I brought home a few very special bones for the dogs. BlackJacks finished his immediately. Sami was just a puppy & his little puppy jaws had gotten tired, so he gave up & went to play with his stuffed bear. After about 20 minutes, Geisha was still working away on hers, and since it was about to get dark outside, I really needed her quit focusing on the bone and come inside. The problem was, all she wanted to do was chew on her tasty new bone. Frustrated that she was ignoring me (something that was normally unlike her), I walked up to her & took the bone away. She got mad then growled and snapped at me. I was stunned! I couldn't believe it. My precious little angel was not acting very angel-like. So, after smacking her little bottom & bringing her inside, I did the only thing I knew to do - I studied up on the best way to nip the problem in the bud.

Guarding food in any form (whether by biting, growling, a confrontational stance, etc.) is always a big No-No and should never be tolerated. This is one thing that all shelters test a dog on beforing OK'ing it for adoption. It is very sad (and I completely disagree with this practice), but if a dog shows food aggression in a shelter, it is often euthanized. This is unfortunate, because it is very possible to train food aggression out of a dog, if the dog is lucky enough to have someone willing to take the time to do so.

In order to correct this bad behavior, you have to understand why your dog feels the necessity to exhibit the behavior in the first place. Food aggression typically occurs when your dog feels that the food in her bowl (or the bone she is chewing on) actually belongs to her. In the wild wolf packs, the alpha males/females eat first. Then, they may allow lower dogs in the pack to eat some of the meal. The lower dogs in the pack understand that the food actually belongs to the alpha(s), and that they are only able to eat because the alpha(s) allow it. So, the solution here is obvious. You need to make your dog realize that all the food/bones/toys in the house actually belong to you. You are just allowing her to eat it/play with it.

To do this, you'll need to begin by changing the way you feed your dog. Initially, don't give her whole bowls of kibble at a time. Put dog food in her bowl and hold it your hand. Now, with your other hand, let her see you pick up some kibble & put it to your mouth. Act like you're eating it & let your dog think you are eating it. She may be shocked at first and wonder why in the world you are eating her food. Now, pick up some more kibble and give it to your dog. Let her eat it from your hand. Repeat the process until the food is gone & do this for a day or two. If your dog eats wet food, then just use a spoon instead of your fingers. Now, if you feel like your dog has made progress and no longer exhibits a "sense of entitlement", you can move on to the next step.

Put the bowl down for your dog to eat out of. Then, while she is eating out of the bowl, every-now-and-then use a spoon to stir the food/kibble inside (use a long-handled spoon if you're still a little worried about biting). If your dog growls, snaps, etc., pick up the bowl of food and take it away. Hold the bowl of food in your hands (out of the dog's reach) until she calms down or sits politely. Then you can put the bowl back down & let her eat out of it again. Repeat this process a couple of times during each meal until your dog learns that her possessive attitude toward the food is unacceptable.

If you have taught your dog how to sit/stay. Put her in that position before putting her food bowl down for her to eat out of. Don't allow her walk over to the bowl until you give her the release word & tell her it's now OK for her to eat. This again reinforces to her that the food belongs to you. I recommend doing this every meal throughout your dog's life. We do this with all three of our JS, even though the other two never showed any signs of becoming food-aggressive. It is simply an easy way to continually re-affirm our positions as the pack alphas.

I'm glad to say that it only took one or two feeding sessions for Geisha to realize the "pecking order" had changed. It only took about a week or so before all food aggression was completely gone. We can now stick our fingers in her bowl and play with her food while she is eating, and it doesn't effect her attitude or demeanor in the slightest. Sure, she's still a little diva, but a sweet diva we can deal with. :)

TEACHING BASIC COMMANDS - Entry #11 (Loose Leash Walking)

November 21, 2009

When little Ju-Ju was about six months old, she absolutely hated walking on a leash. She can be a stubborn little thing. The more we tugged on her leash, the more she would pull back. Eventually, she would just plop down and refuse to go any further. To combat this problem, we taught her how to loose-leash walk.

Japanese Spitz respond very well to praise and positive reinforcement, so with training a JS to do anything, be sure to use this method. When teaching very young or very stubborn puppies, you'll need to sweeten the deal a little by adding a very tasty treat to the mix. The treat should be something that you can cut into very small pieces (you'll be using a lot of them). I like to use bits of fat-free shredded cheese or small, diced pieces of a turkey hot dog. Don't use these treats for anything other than your training sessions because you'll want your puppy to stay excited about the possibility of getting to eat some of these treats.

Put these treats in a Ziploc bag & tie the bag to your belt loop or put it in your pocket. Make sure to put it on the same side of the body that your dog will be on. You'll need easy access to the treats, so leave the bag open. Now, that your prep work is done, slip a leash on the little guy let's get started.

First, stand beside your dog and hold the leash in your opposite hand. In other words, if your dog is on the right side of your body, hold the leash in your left hand. Now, using your right hand, show your dog the treat. Let him smell it, and then let him eat it. Do this just once. Now he knows what a good thing he's in for if he does what is asked of him.

Take another treat out of the bag and let him see it. Now, while holding the leash loosely with slack, say the words, "Lets go" and take a step or two forward, starting with the leg that is closest to your dog. Hopefully, he will walk with you, following the treat. If he does, give him the treat, pet him & praise him with lots of "Good boys!". If he doesn't follow, stop walking, bend down and and encourage him to come to you. When he does, give him the treat, petting and praise.

Repeat this process, slowly increasing the amount of steps you take between treats. Eventually, following beside you while on a leash will be common-nature to him.

Some important things to remember: (1) Begin your training session in an area your dog is familiar with, so there won't be any distractions. (2) Your dog may try to jump up on you to get the treat or for praise. If this happens, stop walking and correct him by firmly tell him "No". You don't want to encourage this behavior. Now, take a step forward. If he walks forward, give him the treat, petting & praise and resume the training session. (3) If your dog is young, he may get bored easily. Keep your training sessions short - no longer than 15 mins at a time, twice a day. (4) Always end your training sessions on a positive note.

Now, Ju-Ju loves her leash walks just as much as our other dogs. She even gets excited when she sees us pull her harness/leash out of the drawer because she knows a walk is in her immediate future. With a little patience, your dog will be just as eager to wear his leash and go on walks with you!

(A special thanks to little Shiro and his human companion, Simon, for suggesting this topic of discussion.)

A Doggie Thanksgiving Dinner

November 18, 209

Ahhhh. Just the thought of our upcoming family's Thanksgiving dinner makes my mouth water. So why should we humans enjoy all the tasty treats? Thanks to DogFancy magazine and The Healthy Dog Cookbook*, here is a recipe for a Thanksgiving dinner that your four-legged family members are sure to love:

You can create this tasty meal for your special friend using your cooked, skinless, turkey leftovers or by following the roasting instructions for uncooked turkey pieces.

Prep time:
30 minutes

Makes:
Nine 1-cup servings

Ingredients: 3 lbs skinless turkey pieces (light and dark meat)
1 c (about 6 oz) oatmeal
1 lb sweet potatoes, cubed
2 tbsp cranberry sauce
4 tbsp turkey gravy

Directions:
1) Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Lightly oil a roasting pan.
2) Roast turkey until meat juices run clear when pierced with a skewer. Boneless breast or thigh, 30-45 mins; boned breast or thigh, 45-60 mins. Let cool.
3) Remove all bones; dice meat into large pieces.
4) If using fresh sweet potatoes, roast with turkey for 25 - 30 mins or until tender. Let cool, then peel and dice.
5) Meanwhile, cook oatmeal according to package instructions.
6) Mix turkey meat, oatmeal, sweet potatoes, and cranberry sauce together. Pour gravy over the mixture.

Serving size:
Small dogs, 3/4 cup
Medium dogs, 1 1/2 cups
Larger or more active dogs, 3 cups

Be sure to follow this recipe exactly and not make any additions. Spices such as sage (commonly found in stuffing/dressing) can be poisonous to dogs.

* The Healthy Dog Cookbook: 50 Nutritious and Delicious Recipes Your Dog Will Love was published by TFH Publications, Inc. in 2008 © Ivy Press Ltd.

Four Legs and a Crowd: Keeping your dog safe when company calls

November 14, 2009

This time of year, company comes calling more often than usual, and resident dogs often need help dealing with holiday guests. Follow these tips to keep your dog safe:

• Brief your guests. Remind visitors of any rules you have regarding human-dog interactions, such as no jumping and no dogs on the beds. If your guests follow the rules, you'll save your dog a lot of confusion.


• Don't feed from the table. People food is not always safe for dogs, and inattentive guests may not know they're reinforcing bad behavior. This gives your dog the impression that yummy-smelling food on the table is simply there to be cadged by barking, jumping up and helping herself to a plate, says Penelope Brown, a dog trainer in Washington, D.C. Discourage such behavior by putting your four-legged friend's food in her own dish.


• Remove food from the counter. "As we teach our dogs not to counter surf by making alternative activities more rewarding, it's important not to tempt her to make a mistake," Brown says.


• Keep her away from the door. Frequent comings and goings give your dog too much opportunity to escape. Keep her in another room, or crate her during arrivals and departures.


• Don't force interactions. Some dogs aren't comfortable around people they don't know. If that's the case with your dog, don't expect her to be a genial canine host. Liz Palika, a trainer in Oceanside, CA, suggests making a safe, quiet place to which your dog can retreat when the crush of people or bustle of the holidays gets to be too much.

* The preceeding is courtesy of Susan McCullough for DogFancy magazine.

FIRST AID IN THE FIELD (Entry #8 - "Grass Seeds in the Eyes")

November 11, 2009

Grass seeds become common and prevalent during the autumn months. When your dogs are playing outside, they can brush up against tall grass seeds at eye-level. Unfortunately, the grass seeds can become stuck behind the dog's third eyelid. (The third eyelid is a clear, retractable protector that slides over the dog's eye.) Unfortunately, other than preventing your dog from running through brush, there is no fool-proof prevention. All you can do is to treat the injury if it occurs.

First, you'll need to assess whether your dog has a grass seed in her eye. If a seed is present, you'll notice your dog squinting while outside, or immediately after your dog comes indoors. If the squinting is there and if it persists, it is likely a grass seed is there. Now, it will need to be removed.

If you tend to get a little squeamish, if you don't have extremely steady hands, or if you are not confident that your dog will stay perfectly still during removal, it is best to take a quick trip to your veterinarian. If you plan to try to remove the seed yourself, you first need to apply an eye-numbing agent, such as Proparacaine, which your vet can provide.

Next, lift the third eyelid using tweezers. This is when steady hands, and your dog remaining perfectly still, will be necessary, as your dog's eye will be very vulnerable and easy to injure at this point. Now, carefully grab the grass seed with your fingertips, and remove it from your dog's eye. Make sure you do not push the seed along the eyeball with your finger, because scratching could occur.

If your dog's eye continues to water and/or if squinting persists, take your dog to the vet to be checked.

Toy Storage - Safer for you, More fun for Fido

November 7, 2009

Having worked in connection with the health care industry for almost a decade now, I've seen quite a few pet-related injuries. Unsurprisingly, most of these injuries occur while an individual is walking his/her dog (i.e., getting tangled in leash, tripping over dog, etc.). Only slightly less common are injuries that occur when an individual stumbles over doggie toys and bones, resulting in a falls. Occasionally, these falls prove be fatal if the individual falls down stairs or bumps his/her head.

This is one reason I am an advocate for doggie toy storage bins. When your furry friends aren't playing with the toys, you can put them in the bin to prevent you and your guests from tripping on them. In our home, we use a small wicker basket that we keep by our fireplace. The dogs have easy access to the toys and can retrieve them at any time.

Pia Silvani, certified dog trainer and animal behavior consultant, suggests dual toy storage: Allow only chew toys in the house. Keep raucous-time fetch toys outdoors, perhaps in a bin on the back porch. Not only is this orderly, but this way the dogs learn that when it's time for [rambunctious] play, we go outside.

Ms. Silvani's 1 year old puppy, Lena, initially picked up socks and shoes, as if they were toys. Lena now knows that when she wants to play or a chew toy, she must head to the toy bins. It is important to remember to rotate the toys that you keep in your bin(s). Just like children, puppies can get bored of playing with the same toys day in and day out. A constant rotation will keep your dogs interested and wondering, with each visit to ther bin, what toys will be waiting for them.

CARING FOR YOUR SENIOR (Entry #4 - "Respecting the Elders")

November 4, 2009

As your dog ages, other dogs within the household, dog park playmates, and unfamiliar dogs may become increasingly pushy or aggressive toward him. If you ignore or fail to notice these changing attitudes, your senior can suffer stress, serious injury or worse.

Dogs often view injured, sick, or older dogs as a liability to the pack. This reflects the vital role each pack member would play if dogs still hunted for food. Those unable to perform would be pushed aside or quickly dispatched.

Of course, many dogs remain amicable toward their seniors, but safety demands supervised interaction. If another dog forcefully bumps into, knocks down, or growls at your older dog, separate them immediately. Never leave your senior alone with an assertive dog or multiple dogs.

* The preceeding is courtesy of Chris Cox-Evick of DogFancy magazine.

Halloween Safety Tips

October 30, 2009

Pop quiz . . . Which holiday finds more pets straying or dying than any other holiday? According to Liam Crowe, the CEO of Bark Busters USA and dog behaviorist, the answer is Halloween. Yikes! Well, thanks to Bark Buster of Dogster's Dog Blog, here are ten tips that will help to ensure a safe Halloween for your furry little ghosts and goblins:

1. Don’t leave your dog outside. Even if you have a fenced yard, bring your dog inside where it is safe. If your dog is usually kept outside, bring him in a few times before the big night to get him used to being indoors. Your dog may be used to strangers, but so many little kids in costumes running about may be too much. Remember also that it is a natural instinct for dogs to protect the family from strangers, and on Halloween there will be no shortage of strangers.

2. Keep your dog restrained. If your dog is timid or scared, or if he tends to love people a little too much, it is best to put him in a separate room away from the front door to limit his excitability, aggression, and chance of running outside and becoming lost.
3. Reassure your dog. The best thing you can do for your dog when he is feeling unsettled by Halloween activities is to act as you normally would. By over-reassuring your dog or giving him an unusual amount of attention, you inadvertently can communicate to him that because you are acting differently, there must be something to worry about.
4. Have your dog get used to costumes. Your dog may see his family members as strangers once they don their Halloween costumes. Before the kids put them on, allow your dog to scent the costumes. If your costume has a mask, keep the mask off when you are with your dog because dogs can become confused when they can't see our faces.

5. Check your dog’s ID tag. Be sure identification tags are secure on your dog’s collar-just in case.

6. Keep candy away from your dog. Many candies-especially chocolate-are toxic to dogs. The severity of the toxicity depends greatly on factors such as breed, age, size, and how much candy was ingested. Problems may range from a mild upset tummy to vomiting and diarrhea, or even death. If you have any concerns at all, consult with a veterinarian immediately. If you want to keep your dog safe, make certain that sweets, including their wrappers, are kept well away from your dog.
7. Protect dogs from candles and pumpkins. Excited or agitated dogs can easily knock over a lit candle or pumpkin. Be sure those items are away from your dog’s reach, or consider a battery-powered candle that does not burn.
8. Think twice about dressing your dog in a costume. While some dogs might enjoy being dressed up, many don’t. Experiment first to see if your dog likes being in a costume. If so, fine-he’ll most likely enjoy himself and the extra attention it brings. However, if he shows any resistance, don’t do it. Dogs feel enough stress around Halloween without also having to endure the discomfort and peculiarity of wearing a strange costume.

9. Be prepared. If you take your dog with you while trick-or-treating, be prepared at all times. Do not let your dog approach the door of a house, and stay clear of possible gags or gangs of goblins who will gather at the door. Dogs do not understand that the person jumping out at you will not hurt you; they often think they can only help you by acting aggressively. Neither children nor adults in costumes should approach a dog without the owner’s consent.
10. Have fun but think of your dog’s safety. Finally, if you want your dog to be included in Halloween festivities, think about his safety much as you would the safety of a small child. Your dog does not understand Halloween, so he needs you to provide the guidance and safety that you always do.

Pumpkin Bones Recipe

October 28, 2009

Three Jacks Dog Bakery in Olmsted Falls, Ohio has a wonderful organic recipe sure to please our canine trick-or-treaters this Halloween. If you're too busy to bake these tasty treats, you can always purchase the doggie biscuits online at http://www.3jacksdogbakery.com/.

Ingredients
4 cups organic brown rice
2 organic eggs with shells
3/4 cup organic steel cut oats
1 cup organic canned pumpkin
1 teaspoon organic ground cinnamon
3/4 cup organic low-fat buttermilk
2 teaspoons organic ground rosemary
1 tablespoon organic blackstrap molasses
3/4 teaspoon sea salt
4 tablespoons organic shortening

Preparation
Mix dry ingredients in a large bowl. Mix liquid ingredients in food processor, leaving egg shells in. Combine wet and dry ingredients in bowl. Knead until well-mixed, about five minutes. Roll dough to 1/4-inch thickness on rice flour-covered pastry board. Cut with 1-inch, small-bone-shaped cutter. Bake at 325 degrees for 15 minutes, then for 10 minutes at 300 degrees, then for 10 more minutes at 250 degrees. This recipe makes about 320 pumpkin bones, depending on the size of your cookie cutter. Recipe may be cut in half.

CARING FOR YOUR SENIOR (Entry #3 - "Helping to Sooth Achy Joints")

October 24, 2009

According to Heidi Booth, DVM, dogs age differently, depending on their size, breed, health and genetic predisposition. In an interview with DogWorld magazine, Booth states, "In general, we consider dogs to be seniors around the age of 7; however, this does vary. Typically, smaller dogs (less than 20 pounds) live longer, not showing their age until 10 to 12 years. Medium-sized dogs (20 - 55 pounds) begin to age at 8 - 10 years; large dogs (55 to 10 pounds) at 6 - 8 years, and giant dogs (100 plus pounds) at age 5. "

Thankfully, Japanese spitzen fall right in between the small to medium size, so they tend to live at least twice as long as the giant breeds. So, when your JS does start to feel her age, one of the things she will probably feel first is an aching in her joints. Just like humans, dogs can suffer from arthritis, which can sometimes be debilitating. And, also like humans, the treatment of the symptoms are similar.

Lisa Hanks, a freelance writer from Newport Beach, California, offers some helpful insight on this topic:

An older dog naturally becomes more stiff and inflexible as its body, muscles and joints deteriorate. Watch your dog closely and identify which actions are difficult for it, then take measures to make them easier.

Achy joints often flare into arthritis. Difficulties standing up, walking on hard floors, jumping on the couch, climbing stairs or going for a walk, may mean arthritis has set in. You might also see a stiff gait and lameness, or grouchiness at being touched on the back or hips.

"Easing your dog's discomfort with soft beds, ramps to go up stairs and adequate room temperatures are a few ways to make movement easier on arthritic dogs," Heidi Booth says. Consider providing a heating pad or self-warming cushion to warm old joints, especially during cold weather.

The best ways to relieve arthritis pain are providing regular exercise and maintaining a healthy weight, as well as using prescribed anti-inflammatories, chondroitin, and other nutraceuticals and supplements. "Newer tools in the battle against arthritis are massage, acupuncture and hydrotherapy," Micah Kohles, DVM of Lincoln Nebraska states, "These can all provide a benefit, but must be initiated under the care of your veterinarian."

Keep your achy, arthritic dog warm and comfy with heated, orthopedic beds or therapeutic blankets. If you must go out in the wet and cold, put a coat or sweater on your dog. Make getting around the house easier by installing ramps to access the couch, bed and car, and by placing nonslip mats on slippery floors.

For advanced arthritis or hip problems that impede your dog's walking ability, invest in a support sling, harness or a rear-end cart. A stroller or bike trailer is a great way to take an impaired dog outside for fresh air. "Some-times dogs become wobbly on their feet, especially their hindquarters, and this can indicate muscle weakness or neurological degeneration." Booth says.

Before my BlackJacks passed away, he was given daily supplements, such as glucosamine with shark cartilage. This has been proven therapeutic for arthritis, and helps to slow it's progression. An occasional injection of an NSAID, such as Adequan, Rimadyl, Etogesic, Metacam, or Deramaxx, also works wonders - especially in cold weather when his joints may hurt slightly more than usual.

Unfortunately, there is no cure for arthritis, so the best we can do is try to treat the symptoms and make our furry loved ones as comfortable as possible.

Can Dogs Get the Swine Flu?

October 14, 2009

Its all over the news and on everyone's minds - the Swine Flu pandemic. We know that it can be harmful to humans. The question is, can the H1N1 virus be harmful to our furry friends?

There is no clear cut answer, but if there were, it seems the answer would most likely be no.

According to Dr. Mike Richards of Mathews Veterinary Clinic in Mathews, Virginia, "I haven't heard of a case of a dog contracting swine flu, especially in this country," said Dr. Mike Richards. "Influenza research is changing; however, and it is recognized that dogs can get the flu. It is unlikely that a dog will get the swine flu, but there are reported cases of dogs getting the avian flu (bird flu). I would not be surprised to hear of a canine swine flu case eventually."
I was able to find just one report of an unconfirmed case of a dog contracting the H1N1 virus, which unfortunately proved to be fatal. The case took place a few years ago in Taiwan. Again, this case was unconfirmed.

Dr. Janet Tobiassen Crosby, DVM, states that there are two types of influenza viruses: Type A and Type B. The Type A viruses are found in humans and many types of animals, usually strains specific to that species. The type B viruses circulate widely among humans. Dogs and cats do have their own versions of influenza viruses. The canine influenza virus is an influenza Type A, known as the H3N8 virus.

Key Fact about Canine Influenza from the CDC: To date, there is no evidence of transmission of canine influenza virus from dogs to people and there has not been a single reported case of human infection with the canine influenza virus.

The good news is that a company based in Kenilworth, NJ called Intervet/Schering-Plough Animal Health announced in June that they have released the first vaccine for the canine influenza virus. The vaccine has been shown to reduce the incidence and severity of lung lesions, as well as the duration of coughing and viral shedding. It is administered under the skin in two doses, two and four weeks apart, and may be given to dogs that are 6 weeks of age or older.

Of course, in order to avoid spreading any type of virus, care should be always taken to use proper sanitation and personal hygiene in all cases of illness, and especially for the ever-changing influenza viruses.

According to Mohala Johnson of the Cheyenne Dogs Examiner, here is a list of some things you can do to help keep your immune system up to par. After all, if you don't take care of yourself, then who will take care of your dog?

~Wash your hands often
~Cover you nose and mouth if you sneeze or if someone around you does
~Be sure to eat a balanced diet
~Exercise (which you should already be doing with your dog)
~Stay hydrated, drink your fluids especially water, try drinking lemon water its good for your immune system, and you might like it.
~Get a full night sleep
~Take your vitamins, like vitamin C
~There is also a variety of food that you can eat to help you boost your immune system.

So, while dogs may be susceptible to their own version of influenza if not vaccinated, it seems that they are safe from Swine Flu for now, so hopefully this gives you some peace of mind. As always, if you suspect that your dog is sick, please contact your veterinarian directly for an examination and to discuss any questions.

TEACHING BASIC COMMANDS – ENTRY #10 ("Standing Ovation")

October 11, 2009

This is not something we have taught our dogs to do. However, I have seen Japanese Spitz standing and dancing on their hind legs and it is SO cute! (See dancing Japanese Spitz here: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R-FrINJD1PQ) For those of you who would like to teach you JS how to stand in his/her hind legs, below is a helpful article I found by September Morn, a writer for Dog Fancy magazine.

Lure your dog into a standing position by holding a treat in front of her nose, then moving it straight forward. Stop moving it when your dog stands up, click or praise to mark the behavior and give her the treat as a reward. When luring a stand, position the treat so your dog's muzzle is horizontal. If you move the treat upward your dog will probably sit. If you hold it too low, she may lie down.

After your dog follows a treat lure into a standing position several times, phase ou tthe lure by moving your hand with the same motion, but without holding a treat. When your dog follows your hand and stands, click or praise, and reward with a treat. This becomes the hand signal that means "Stand"

Add a verbal cue, "Stand" or "Stand Up", saying it just before you make the hand signal.

Reduce the use of treats once your dog consistently responds to your hand motion or command.

THE 2010 PUPPY CALENDARS ARE HERE

September 25, 2009

The 2010 Puppy Calendars, featuring Sweet Samurai's 2009 litter, have arrived! As you can see in the ad below, the calendar contains high-quality, original photos of the puppies from ages 4 weeks - 12 weeks.

The wall calendars are a standard 11"x17" size when opened and are printed on top-quality, heavy weight, gloss stock paper with a sturdy coil bounding.

The cost is $21.99, and a portion of the money from each calendar sold goes to support the Japanese Spitz Rescue. Credit cards are accepted via Paypal.

If you are interested in purchasing a calendar, e-mail your order to SweetSamuraiKennels@gmail.com and be sure to list your preferred method of payment. We only ordered a limited number, so get one now while supplies last!!!

Thunderstruck

September 23, 2009

Many dogs have a fear of thunderstorms (something my neck of the woods has had an abundance of lately). This fear can be mild or sometimes so severe it is crippling. Every season, many dogs end up in shelters and vet clinics after having escaped or injured themselves during a thunderstorm. The good news is, there are things you can do to help your dog relieve the stress he feels during these frightening events.

The first thing you must realize is that your dog's fears are not irrational. They are valid and must be treated as such. NEVER scold your dog for exhibiting the fear he feels. Do not try to force him to "deal" with or be near what frightens him (in this case - the loud noise). This can backfire and result in a worsening of the fear. Additionally, it is important to note that merely trying to prevent your dog from escaping or destroying things will not properly address the problem. Attending to the symptoms of the anxiety, rather than the anxiety itself can result in your dog increasing the intensity of it’s response or he may find another way to show his fears, such as digging, climbing, jumping, chewing, barking, howling, etc.

Create a safe and predictable environment for your dog. More-than-likely, he already has a place of comfort he likes to go to in order to feel safe during storms. Don't deny him this. However, don't confine him to this area, as this could cause more problems - especially for dogs who need to be "active" to deal with their anxiety. Let your dog come and go as he pleases.

While in the "safe" place, give your dog things that typically make him happy - such as a favorite, high-value food or favorite treats or bones. This can serve as a distraction initially, and eventually, your dog will begin to associate thunder storms with good things.

Dog-appeasing pheromones, which are similar to the pheromones released by nursing mother dogs can also reduce a dog's anxiety during thunderstorms. DogFancy recommends some common ones by Comfort Zone, manufactured by Farnam, and D.A.P., from CEVA Animal Health.

Unfortunately, some dogs are so deathly afraid of thunderstorms that they need meds to be able to cope. If your dog is one of these, consult your veterinarian so that he may prescribe some anti-anxiety drugs.

TEACHING BASIC COMMANDS – ENTRY #9 ("SHAKE")

September 19, 2009

Until this point, we have only discussed basic commands associated with teaching your dog manners. Sometimes, though, it's fun to teach commands known as tricks. Teaching your dog to shake hands is one of the most common tricks you can teach, though it can be difficult for the little guy to learn. In order to teach this one, you'll have to break it down into simple steps.

• Get your dog to lift his paw off of the floor - mark the behavior with a treat.
• Have your dog touch your hand with his paw - mark the behavior with a treat.
• Have your dog lift his paw even higher to touch your hand - mark the behavior with a treat.
• Add the verbal cue, "SHAKE".

If you take this one slowly and stay patient, your dog will be shaking hands on command in no time at all!

Preparing Your Dog For Autumn Changes

September 16, 2009

As we savor the last days of summer, we also plan for fall's changes. We take the kids shopping for back-to-school clothes and supplies. We mentaly prepare ourselves for getting back to the grind at work. But we also need to prepare our dogs.

Because come Autumn, your dog's life often changes, too. The kids go back to school and aren't around for extended playtime. Young adults leave for college and can't interact with her at all. Older adults may be preoccupied with missing the kids or getting back to work themselves. The result can be a lonely dog who barks, forgets her housetraining, becomes destructive, or simply acts depressed.

A little planning beforehand can forestall such trauma. Here's how:

• Change caregivers. If your dog's main caregiver is a family member who soon won't be around to do that, start making the switch to an adult or sibling who will remain behind. Begin by having the primary caregiver take your dog for two walks a day, with teh new caregiver doing the rest. By the time the primary caregiver departs, the new caregiver should already have taken over.
• Maintain routines. Although your dog's caregiver may change, her routine shouldn't. She should eat, walk, and play at the same times with her new caregiver.
• Keep active. Trainers often say that a tired dog is a good dog - for good reason. A dog who has gotten some vigorous exercise is too pooped to get into trouble. Give your dog at least 20 minutes of aerobic activity daily, but don't do such activity in the middle of a hot day.
• Monitor carefully. If your dog quits eating or acts lethargic as you make these adjustments, don't assume she's unhappy with what's going on. She could be physically ill. Take her to the veterinarian if such behavior continues for more than a day or two.

*Courtesy of DogFancy (Oct.2009 issue) / Written by Susan McCullough

A Weather Forecast . . . For Your Dog?

September 12, 2009

I recently read about this neat website hosted by The Weather Channel that lets you check tells you the most optimal time to walk your dog, based upon the forecast for that day, your pet's age and coat type. It also tells you the mosquito activity levels in your area, tells you the number of calories you will burn while walking your little buddy, and offers a map that tracks the local flea activity. Check it out at www.weather.com/pet

s.

Disaster Plan

September 9, 2009

So, here we go. Another hurricane season is upon us. Every hurricane season, I'm reminded of the disasterous Katrina, which unfortunately resulted in the death and displacement of many abandoned pets.

There are many kinds of disasters that can strike. Some personal tragedies / disasters require that you leave your home suddenly, resulting in the need for a pet sitter. Other disasters may require you to evacuate your home entirely. Hopefully, in instances like this, you will be able to take your animals with you. The sad truth is that you may not always be in a position to do this. In the event that a tragedy occurrs, it is best to take the Boy Scout moto and BE PREPARED. Make plans now to avoid being disorganized when the pressure is on. The advice in this blog entry will help you do just that.

DISASTER SUPPLY & CHECK LIST

Make a "Disaster Supply Corner." Dedicate a corner of your home, basement, garage, or attic, for these emergency supplies.

- Crates, cages, or containers, for evacuating every pet in your household
- Bedding for crates
- Vehicle with room for all crates, food, water, and personal gear. Responsible pet owners will always own one vehicle that is large enough for evacuating pets.
- Collapsible pen or temporary fencing
- Cat litter box and extra litter (for cat owners)
- Leashes and collars (with ownership and rabies tags) for every pet
- Toys and treats
- Water for drinking, 2 gallons for each person and pet
- Pet food (sealed for storage) in plastic bins, enough for two weeks
- Bleach (plain household) to treat drinking water (12 drops per gallon)
- Dropper to measure bleach into water
- Instructions for pet care and feeding
- Pet medications
- Veterinary records
- Photos of all pets showing identifying marks loaded to CD and printed, and vaccination forms
- List of pet-friendly lodging options and phone numbers
- First aid kit
- Flashlight and extra batteries

PET SURVIVAL PLAN

Make an Indoor/Outdoor Pet Shelter in Your Home. Turn your home into an indoor/outdoor pet shelter so that they can survive without you for at least 2 weeks.

Advance Preparations
- Microchip your pets, so they may be identified if you are separated from them.
- Make photographs of your pets for identification, including views of important identifying markings, and keep these with your important papers.
- Ask your pet sitter or a neighbor to call you immediately wherever you are, if a disaster threatens or occurs, any time of day or night.
- If you receive such a call while you are away, call your Reciprocal Foster to make pet care plans.

Before Leaving the Pets
- Remove one entrance door from its hinges (store it on the floor in a distant room) to allow at-will, safe, and permanent access to the outdoors. The door should not be exposed to prevailing winds. Yes, there are risks involved with leaving your home open. If you can, take your pets with you instead.
- Open all windows to allow air circulation in hot climates.
- Post a large sign inside a window that reads: PLEASE RESCUE OUR PETS, if you are uncertain about whether you can return within 2 weeks.
- Post a list TO RESCUERS near the inside entrance that includes: Your contact information; Your reciprocal foster contact information; All pets by name and type, and any medical needs; state that you will make attempts to find and claim your pets.
- Fill all bathtubs and sinks with clean water. Fill buckets with clean water. Fill big plastic tote bins with clean water. Distribute clean water throughout the house. In hot weather, dehydration can kill in 2 to 3 days, especially young, ill, or elderly pets!
- Treat the drinking water so that the standing water doesn't develop bacterial infestations: 16 drops of plain household chlorine bleach per gallon of water.
- Distribute all of your emergency pet food in pans, buckets, and bowls, at least a month's supply.
- Distribute pet toys and favorite beds or blankets.
- Clean all cat litter boxes and fill with litter.
- Turn furniture over that you don't want pets climbing on (list these).
- Unplug all outlets throughout the house.
- Turn off gas or heating oil connections.
- Turn off water mains to the house.

Return within 2 weeks without fail.

Your pets are your responsibility; pray that they will be alive and waiting for you.

Reality Check: This is not the time to worry about poop and pee. If your pets survive the disaster and the aftermath, be grateful.

For more resources on the topic of rescue of animals in emergencies, including preparedness information, check out this page: Emergency Animal Rescue Service (EARS

*The information provided above is courtesy of SunbearSquad.Org.

** Picture courtesy of National Geographic - Dogs awaiting rescue in Mississippi after Katrina

A Tribute on this blackest of Tuesdays

September 1, 2009

My best buddy, my black lab, BlackJacks, just passed away. Via con Dios, little buddy. You've been a constant in my life for 15 years now. I miss you so much already.

“He is my other eyes that can see above the clouds, my other ears that hear above the winds. He is the part of me that can reach out into the sea. He has told me a thousand times over that I am his reason for being; by the way he rests against my leg; by the way he thumps his tail at my smallest smile; by the way he shows his hurt when I leave without taking him. (I think it makes him sick with worry when he is not along care for me.) When I am wrong, he is delighted to forgive me. When I am angry, he clowns to make me smile. When I am happy, he is joy unbounded. When I am a fool, he ignores it. When I succeed, he brags. Without him, I am only another man. With him, I am all-powerful. He is loyalty itself. He has taught me the meaning of devotion. With him, I know a secret comfort and a private peace. He has brought me understanding where before I was ignorant. His head on my knee can heal my human hurts. His presence by my side is protection against my fears of dark and unknown things. He has promised to wait for me…whenever…wherever - in case I need him. And, I expect I will -- as I always have. He is just my dog.” - Gene Hill

FIRST AID IN THE FIELD (Entry #7 - "Making a First Aid Kit")

August 26, 2009

In order to treat field injuries, you should always be prepared with a first aid kit. It doesn't have to be a large, burdensome kit. In fact, the majority of what you need to will fit into a small Ziploc bag.

The following items are what should be included in any basic first aid kit for your pet, and will come in handy if an emergency were to arise:

• Scissors
• Tweezers
• Thermometer
• Hydrogen peroxide
• Ophthalmic antibiotic ointment
• Vetrap cotton bandage wrap
• Elastic wrap, such as Elastikon or Vetrap
• Waterproof wrap, such as Wet Pruf
• Bottled water

Remember, it is a good idea to talk with your veterinarian to learn about the specific items and medications that will be best for your outdoor excursion.

Dog Camps in the USA

August 22, 2009

This month's issue of DogFancy contains an interesting article about summer camps that are specifically designed to accomodate families and their canine companions. The camps provide a variety of dog-friendly activities including agility, lure coursing, and dock jumping. Many camps also provide activities for humans, such as dog training and creative classes like dog treat making and spinning dog fur. Being dog camps, there are, of course, many activites a dog can do along with his human counterpart. Treasure / Scaventer Hunts, as well as Water Rescue are just two examples.

This sounds like a great idea! I had no idea these camps existed. For dog and outdoor lovers, what better way to incorporate your pooch into your vacation plans?

Here is a list of some canine camps, as provided by DogFancy:

• Camp Barking Hills, Hackettstown, NJ (open spring) ph: 908-996-9911, website: http://www.campbarkinghills.com/
• Camp Dogwood, Ingleside, IL (open spring & fall) ph: 312-458-9549, website: http://www.campdogwood.com/
• Camp Gone to the Dogs, Vermont (open summer & fall) ph: 888-364-3293, website: http://www.campgonetothedogs.com/
• Camp Unleashed, Becket, MA (open summer & fall) ph: 518-781-0446, website: http://www.campunleashed.com/
• Camp Winnaribbun, Stateline, NV (open summer & fall) ph: 775-348-8412, website: http://www.campw.com/
• Dog Days of Wisconsin, Almond, WI (open summer) ph: 800-226-7436, website: http://www.dogcamp.com/
• Dog Scout Camp, St. Helen, MI (open summer) Fort Worth, TX (open winter) ph: 989-389-2000, website: http://www.dogscouts.com/
• Dog Sports Camp, Oregon (open summer) ph: 541-826-6592, website: http://www.pawsitivelybullydogtraining.com/
• The Dog's Camp, Swannanoa, NC (open fall) ph: 828-649-3691, website: http://www.thedogscamp.com/

FIRST AID IN THE FIELD (Entry #6 - "Stomach Torsion / Bloat")

August 19, 2009

Stomach Torsion, also known as Bloat, occurs when the stomach becomes twisted, causing intestinal gases to build up. The condition is very painful and can be fatal if not treated right away. It is similar to having a balloon in your dog's belly that keeps expanding. It is not entirely known what causes this condition, though suspected culprits include certain types of food large amounts of food, and/or heavy exercise. Though it is uncommon for this to occur in the field, there is still a possibility so I felt it best to discuss this in our First Aid In The Field series.

Bloat is treated by inserting a stomach tube through the throat and into the stomach to release the trapped gas. More severe cases require surgery. If your dog looks bloated, acts restless, tries to vomit unsuccessfully, has excessive salivation and has labored breathing, get him to a vet immediately. If you are in a place where a veterinarian is not available, you will need to try to relieve the pressure yourself. This can be done by inserting a large bore needle into your dog's abdomen - the area right behind the ribs while your dog is in a standing position. If possible, you really need to contact a veterinarian before trying this procedure, as it is very risky. THIS PROCEDURE SHOULD ONLY BE DONE AS A LAST RESORT TO SAVE YOUR DOG'S LIFE.

If you feel your dog may be prone to Stomach Torsion, you should take precautionary measures. Feed your dog smaller meals twice-a-day, rather than one large meal. Also, refrain from letting your dog exercise after meals. This condition typically occurs when dogs are overly excited, not eating regularly, or are out of their normal circumstances.

Tax Deductible Pet Care Expenses

August 17, 2009

Congressman Thaddeus McCotter of Michigan (http://mccotter.house.gov/HoR/MI11/Home/) has introduced a new act called the HAPPY Act - The Humanity and Pets Partnered Through The Years act (http://thomas.loc.gov/cgi-bin/query/z?c111:H.R.3501).

Based on the fact that more than 60% of households have pets, and because those pets contribute to our well-being, this bill, if passed, would allow pet owners to take a tax decuctible for up to $3500 in pet care expenses. The wording on the bill states that…

qualified pet care expenses means amounts paid in connection with providing care (including veterinary care) for a qualified pet other than any expense in connection with the acquisition of the qualified pet.

The Pet Industry Joint Advisory Council (http://www.pijac.org/_documents/us_hr_3501_happy_act.pdf) is asking people to contact their representative and encourage them to consider the bill favorably. See their website to read more, including information on how to contact your representative.


Thanks to PetSit USA for providing the above information.

CARING FOR YOUR SENIOR (Entry #2 - "Doggie Dementia")

August 15, 2009

A dog is considered to be a senior citizen at age 7. And just like senior humans, senior dogs can start having mental "slips" as they get older. This is known as Doggie Dementia. Here are some signs to watch for:

• Changes in sleeping-waking patterns
• Aimless wandering, pacing or circling
• Uncharacteristic house soiling
• Changes in relationships with family
• Whining or inappropriate barking
• Getting lost in familiar surroundings
• Unresponsiveness to known commands
• Unusual restlessness
• Uncharacteristic anxiety (separation anxiety, fearfulness)

Evidence of this cognitive dysfunction syndrome is made by process of elimination by your veterinarian, as it is impossible to test directly for this condition except by autopsy of the brain. Your vet may first test for blindness, urinary tract infection, or kidney disease in this elimination process.

If your vet does determine that your dog suffers from Doggie Dementia, he may prescribe Anipryl, which can help reduce the symptoms. However, there are some things you can do at home to reduce the symptoms, as well. Dogs who suffer from dementia do best when you follow a strict routine and provide regular age-appropriate exercise. Antioxidants, nutrient-rich food, and supplements & nutraceuticals can also benefit seniors. But most importantly, keep your dog involved in life.

TEACHING BASIC COMMANDS – ENTRY #8 ("WATCH ME")

August 12, 2009

If you don't have your dog's attention, it is impossible to give him commands he already knows, nor will you be able to teach him new commands. This is why it is important to teach your dog the command "Watch Me". In a location with many distractions, this command definitely comes in handy. To teach your dog this command, simply follow these easy steps:

• When your dog is looking elsewhere, say your dog's name followed by the words "WATCH ME".


• When he looks at you, reward him with a treat.


• Gradually increase the time by withholding the treat for several seconds.


• Practice this command often - every time you want to get your dog's attention.

Some dogs are a little easier to teach this command than others. For those four-legged friends that don't quite understand, try using the following method:

• Say your dog's name while, at the same time, holding a treat in front of his nose.


• Slowly move the treat from the front of your dog's nose to your face while saying the words "WATCH ME".


• Hold the treat between your eyes for several seconds.


• Reward him with the treat.


• Once your dog is consistently following the treat, try luring him without the treat using the method previously discussed.

Once your dog understands this command, it will be easier for you to start working with him to carry out your commands in more public areas.

Back to School Blues

August 5, 2009

Your kids have had a great time this summer playing with the family pooch. It's a given that the family pooch has had just as much, if not more, fun playing with the kids. So, how will they handle the inevitable separation from each other when the kids go back to school? Dog Fancy has provided some great tips to help the two-legged and four-legged family members ease into this transition.

TIPS FOR YOUR DOG

After a fun summer spent with the kids, your puppy may whine, cry or even scratch at the door when the children go back to school. Help her accept this sudden separation without anxiety by following a few guidelines.

Puppies take comfort in routine. If the start of a new school year will change your puppy's normal schedule, start the transition two weeks before school begins. This prevents several harried mornings dealing with an upset puppy while trying to get the kids out of the house.

When their people act upset, puppies get upset. To prevent tearful goodbyes, allow children /puppy playtime before the kids get dressed. As leaving time draws near, put the puppy in her crate and offer a chew bone or a stuffable toy filled with treats. This should help keep her distracted and happy while the children walk out the door.

- Chris Cox-Evick

TIPS FOR YOUR KIDS

STAY CALM - If your kids say lots of tearful goodbyes and make a big deal about leaving, the family dog will get nervous, and it may make her more upset. Instead, your kids should give the dog a nice pat on the head and calmly tell her goodbye. Then, leave out a favorite toy for her to play with.

MAKE EXTRA TIME - Your kids are going to be busy with homework and chores, but they should take a few extra minutes to give their dog some attention after they've been home from school for a little while. A quick walk or a fun game will keep them bonded all year long.

TEACH THE DOG SOMETHING NEW - Since your kids are learning lots of stuff in school, why not let them teach the family dog a few things? Can she sit, stay, and roll over? Use free weekend time to work on some fun tricks, but don't forget tasty treats to reward the good little student.

- Katy French

* The above is a picture of Ju-Ju taken on 8/1/09

FIRST AID IN THE FIELD (Entry #5 - "Making an Impromptu Dog Muzzle")

August 1, 2009

Even the most mild-mannered canine can bite under duress or painful circumstances. If your dog is in a great deal of pain or begins to act aggressively, muzzle him before attempting first aid. However, please note that a dog that is vomiting, having breathing difficulties, or suffering from heatstroke or hypothermia should NOT be muzzled.

Any number of objects can be used as a muzzle, including a length of rope or gauze, a leash or even shoelaces.

Start by tying a loop large enough to fit around your dog's muzzle.

1. Slip the loop around your dog's muzzle midway between its eyes and nose.
2. Tighten the loop so that your dog's jaws are closed. Take care not to bind your dog's jaws too tightly.
3. Cross the ends of the muzzle beneath your dog's jaw.
4. Bring the end of the string or laces back behind your dog's ears.
5. Tie with a double knot. This muzzle should be removable by slipping it back over the dog's ears.

If you are concerned that your dog can't breathe, tie a knot similar to a shoelace bow, which can be quickly released. A dog that shows difficulty breathing should NOT be muzzled.

* The preceding courtesy of DogWorld magazine - April, 2009

Ruff Ruff Yogurt Pops

July 29, 2009

I recently found a recipe for a frozen summertime sweet treat that our dogs absolutely love. The recipe is from Annie Siegmann, owner of Ruff Ruff Bakery in Playa Del Ray, California.

RUFF RUFF YOGURT POPS
32 ounces vanilla or plain yogurt
1 - 2 ripe bananas (or 1/2 lb frozen cherries or blueberries)
2 tablespoons peanut butter
2 tablespoons honey (optional)
1 teaspoon cinnamon
1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract (optional)

Mash bananas, then mix in the remaining ingredients. Spoon mixture into an ice cube tray and freeze. Place one or two cubes in your dog's bowl for her to lick.

This is a great way to help your fluffy friend to cool down this summer!

TEACHING BASIC COMMANDS – ENTRY #7 (Combining Commands)

July 25, 2009

As you and your dog continue to progress together in your basic training, you will need to begin combining some commands. For example, some puppies, when learning the "Down" command, might forget how to "Sit". This is often caused by mistakes made by you, the trainer. The natural progression is to use the command "Down" immediately after the "Sit" command. If you do this too often, your dog will start to anticipate your next command.


There are two ways you can prevent this from happening. First, keep practicing the individual commands, as well as the combined commands. Second, when combining commands, mix and match the commands that you use. In other words, instead of always asking for a "Down" after asking for a "Sit", sometimes ask your dog to "Shake" after a "Sit". You could also ask your dog for a "Down" first, and then ask for a "Sit".


If you ask your little guy for one command and he gives you another (you ask for "Sit" and he gives you a "Down"), don't reward him. Instead, lure him back into position for the command you gave. Then reward him.


Combining "Come" with "Sit" is a good way to avoid some potential problems. You don't want your dog to come running to you only to jump up on you with muddy paws. Or, even worse, snatch the treat out of your hand and run away. If you've been consistently working with your dog (practicing at least 15 minutes per day with one new command per week), he should reliably sit and/or come when called nearly every time. To combine these two commands, just follow these steps:

• You should be in a standing position.
• Say your dog's name followed by the command "Come". (Use the same technique you learned when first teaching the "Come" command.
• Next, cue your puppy to sit with either the verbal command or the hand signal.
• Reward the behavior by giving your puppy a treat.

Wait a few seconds before you give your pooch a treat. You want him to stay sitting in front of you until you tell him differently. It won't take long before your puppy will automatically sit each time he comes to you.

As discussed many times in this series, it is important to make the training fun for your dog. One way you can do this is by turning the training session into a game. Our dogs love to play hide and seek. We play this game by combining three basic commands - "Sit", "Stay" and "Come". First, I put the dogs in a "Sit-Stay" position. Then I will hide somewhere in the house. Once I find a hiding spot, I yell out the word "Come". The dogs will run around the house trying to find me. Once they succeed in finding me, I reward them with a treat. Be sure to keep the game challenging - hide in various parts of the house. The better your dogs become at the game, the more challenging your hiding place can be. Geisha, Sami & Ju-Ju absolutely love this game and never seem to tire of it.

As you can imagine, there are many advantages to combining and practicing commands. After all, practice makes perfect. Keep it up and pretty soon, you'll have another happy and well-mannered addition to your family.

FIRST AID IN THE FIELD (Entry #4 - "Heatstroke")

July 18, 2009

When it occurs: Dogs can fall victim to heatstroke for a number of reasons, including prolonged exposure to hot weather, activity in humid climates, being left in vehicles with rising temperatures and insufficient water consumption.

What experts say about prevention: To keep your dog from experiencing heatstroke, use good judgment and carry plenty of water. It is a good idea to carry just as much water for each of your dogs as you do for yourself. If in a heated environment or a situation such as one noted above, make sure your dogs drink water every 15 - 20 minutes. You can also use the water to cool your dogs down by pouring it over their heads and down their backs.

How serious is it? Heatstroke is a serious condition that can be fatal. It is estimated that two out of every twelve dogs that suffer from heatstroke will die.

How to treat the condition: If your dog is suffering from heatstroke, you'll notice it panting heavily. It may become wobbly while walking and unresponsive. Some dogs vomit and become unconscious. Before seeking medical treatment, first cool your dog down. Keep your dog in the shade and wet it down with water until its temperature reaches 103 degrees Fahrenheit.

Give your dog frequent, small sips of water. A commonly recommended amount is one pint per 50 pounds of body weight in 30 minutes to avoid vomiting and vascular disease due to overhydration, withholding water only if your dog vomits.

If your dog has not recovered within an hour, take it to a veterinarian immediately. Check that its lips and gums look normal. Your dog has recovered when its temperature, respiration, gait and alertness have returned to normal.


* The above information courtesy of DogWorld Magazine - April, 2009